Middle mounting screw on mlok pic rail interfering with gas block on savage msr

ADClope · October 9, 2018, 07:39 PM

I recently picked up a Savage MSR 10 Long Range in 6.5.

Was installing an Mlok rail on the front of the handguard for my bipod and the middle mounting screw is hitting the bottom of the gas block.

So basically no long free floated.

I figure my options are:

1. Trim the screw down. It looks like I have a little bit of real estate here. However, I read somewhere that you want nothing within 1/8" of the barrel or block to account for barrel whip.

2. Simply move the rail back a bit towards the rear of the rifle. I would, however, like to keep it as far forward as possible.

3. Leave the middle mounting screw out and just use the two outers?

Just wanted to get you guys' thoughts.

Thanks

Double Naught Spy · October 9, 2018, 07:43 PM

Move the rail would be my suggestion.

Mobuck · October 10, 2018, 06:16 AM

"I read somewhere that you want nothing within 1/8" of the barrel or block to account for barrel whip."
If so, you've got something loose somewhere.
Unless you're planning to hook a kitchen sink on the rail, 2 screws should be adequate. If the screw is actually protruding from the nut you could cut it back so it ends up flush.

FrankenMauser · October 10, 2018, 05:04 PM

Option 4: Shave the gas block.

I shaved the gas blocks on a .458 SOCOM build and the .475 Tremor (same gas block dimensions and same free float tube). There's only about 0.020" clearance on one, and about 0.050" clearance on the other. Neither has ever made contact with the tube.
They are, admittedly, probably much stiffer barrels, though. They're 0.936" to the gas blocks; and 16.25" and 14.5" long, respectively.

Two screws will probably be enough, though....

Sharkbite · October 10, 2018, 08:12 PM

Id go with the 2 screw option

bfoosh006 · October 11, 2018, 02:31 PM

I have ground them down ( while assembled , and with a belt sander CAREFUL they get HOT !! ) .... and have left the middle one out.

Both ways has worked very well for me.

ADClope · October 12, 2018, 08:39 AM

Thanks everyone for your responses.

October 9, 2018, 07:39 PM	#1
ADClope Member Join Date: October 5, 2016 Posts: 54	Middle mounting screw on mlok pic rail interfering with gas block on savage msr I recently picked up a Savage MSR 10 Long Range in 6.5. Was installing an Mlok rail on the front of the handguard for my bipod and the middle mounting screw is hitting the bottom of the gas block. So basically no long free floated. I figure my options are: 1. Trim the screw down. It looks like I have a little bit of real estate here. However, I read somewhere that you want nothing within 1/8" of the barrel or block to account for barrel whip. 2. Simply move the rail back a bit towards the rear of the rifle. I would, however, like to keep it as far forward as possible. 3. Leave the middle mounting screw out and just use the two outers? Just wanted to get you guys' thoughts. Thanks Last edited by ADClope; October 9, 2018 at 07:59 PM.

October 9, 2018, 07:43 PM	#2
Double Naught Spy Senior Member Join Date: January 8, 2001 Location: Forestburg, Montague Cnty, TX Posts: 12,717	Move the rail would be my suggestion. __________________ "If you look through your scope and see your shoe, aim higher." -- said to me by my 11 year old daughter before going out for hogs 8/13/2011 My Hunting Videos https://www.youtube.com/user/HornHillRange

October 10, 2018, 05:04 PM	#4
FrankenMauser Senior Member Join Date: August 25, 2008 Location: In the valley above the plain Posts: 13,424	Option 4: Shave the gas block. I shaved the gas blocks on a .458 SOCOM build and the .475 Tremor (same gas block dimensions and same free float tube). There's only about 0.020" clearance on one, and about 0.050" clearance on the other. Neither has ever made contact with the tube. They are, admittedly, probably much stiffer barrels, though. They're 0.936" to the gas blocks; and 16.25" and 14.5" long, respectively. Two screws will probably be enough, though.... __________________ Don't even try it. It's even worse than the internet would lead you to believe.

October 10, 2018, 06:16 AM	#3
Mobuck Junior member Join Date: February 2, 2010 Posts: 6,846	"I read somewhere that you want nothing within 1/8" of the barrel or block to account for barrel whip." If so, you've got something loose somewhere. Unless you're planning to hook a kitchen sink on the rail, 2 screws should be adequate. If the screw is actually protruding from the nut you could cut it back so it ends up flush.

October 10, 2018, 08:12 PM	#5
Sharkbite Senior Member Join Date: November 4, 2013 Location: Western slope of Colorado Posts: 3,679	Id go with the 2 screw option

October 11, 2018, 02:31 PM	#6
bfoosh006 Senior Member Join Date: February 17, 2009 Posts: 1,089	I have ground them down ( while assembled , and with a belt sander CAREFUL they get HOT !! ) .... and have left the middle one out. Both ways has worked very well for me.

October 12, 2018, 08:39 AM	#7
ADClope Member Join Date: October 5, 2016 Posts: 54	Thanks everyone for your responses.