Do I need to have this revolver repaired?

Unlicensed Dremel · September 29, 2014, 08:27 PM

Taurus 94, 9-shot .22lr.

Looking at the gun from the back, the cylinder rotates counterclockwise with each shot.

I cannot manually push the cylinder in that same direction.

However, with moderately-light manual pressure with my fingers, the cylinder slips and rotates clockwise in 8 out of 9 positions (it stays put on the 9th one), then clicks into place in the next slight, until more pressure is applied.

It functions fine. After the shot, with trigger held to rear, and hammer down, it will not manually turn in EITHER direction. But this bothers me a lot.

I hear horror stories about Taurus warranty service - should I send it in?

James K · September 30, 2014, 05:48 PM

The cylinders of Taurus revolvers rotate counterclockwise (seen from the rear) in normal operation, so that is OK. And, with the trigger back and hammer down, the cylinder should not rotate either direction, so that is OK too.

But with the gun at rest and trigger forward, it should not be possible to rotate the cylinder either direction with hand pressure. It sounds like the cylinder stop may not be coming up far enough to fully enter the notches in the cylinder or may be a bit too large to do so.

First, remove the grips and give the gun a good soaking in a cleaner like Kroil in case the problem is just dirt or crud; let the gun drain and put a few drops of oil ahead of the hammer and ahead of the trigger. If the problem is just dirt, that should correct it.

It sounds like a minor problem that any gunsmith can correct, but if it is a new gun, working on it or having someone else work on it will likely void the warranty; I would take it back where I bought it and see what they say.

Jim

Dixie Gunsmithing · October 1, 2014, 11:14 PM

It definitely sounds like a worn down cylinder stop. If its new, it could be a bad new part that they missed. Anyhow, these aren't much, and are easy to fix.

The only other thing, that I could think of, would be the small flutes cut for clearance at the cylinder stop recesses on the cylinder, being too deep, and the stop being barely caught by them over it. However, I would guess it being just the cylinder stop itself before that.

**4V50 Gary** · October 2, 2014, 07:54 AM

Agree with Jim that when the action is at rest, the cylinder should not rotate. Are the cylinder notches clean? Is the stop fitted to each cylinder notch. Is there sufficient pressure pushing the stop up?

tangolima · October 2, 2014, 07:12 PM

Even the cylinder stop is not fitted correctly, the hand should keep the cylinder from rotating backward (clockwise in this case), unless the hand fitment is also substandard.

I bet this revolver may not sing right. Pull back the trigger slight, just enough for the cylinder to rotate. Now rotate manually. It should only go counter-clock-wise. And it should ratchet. That ratcheting sound is the sing, which is caused by the hand going over the ratchet. If there is any trigger position the sing stops, the cylinder is free wheeling, and something is not kosher with the hand fitment.

New gun? The manufacturer should fix it under warranty.

-TL

Unlicensed Dremel · October 2, 2014, 10:35 PM

I feel like the pressure pushing the cylinder stop up is very weak, so maybe that's it. I hope so, because that's an easier fix than if the cylinder notches are too shallow.

Yeah, it's pretty clean. I will try the degreasing thing, but I think it needs a stronger cylinder stop spring at a minimum. That's cheap enough that it would be easier to do it myself perhaps, than to send to Taurus. Is it simple to replace this part or will I open a pandora's box in there?

Thanks all.

Dixie Gunsmithing · October 3, 2014, 04:09 AM

The hand should catch it too, but according to how the ratchet is made, pressure might cause it to push back, and allow rotation.

My guess is, that the top of the cylinder stop is not protruding through the frame far enough to get a good bite in the cylinder notches to hold it. Since it barely would have a bite, a little pressure could cause it to simply cam down, and let the cylinder turn. That would also say that whoever fitted the stop, probably didn't keep the top edge square and sharp, and may have beveled it or rounded it over when they stoned it.

It could be dirt, but that would be a mighty dirty action, to plug that up enough to keep that stop from popping up all the way in its hole. If its new, or looks cared for, I'm thinking it more a part problem.

When that gun is working right, the following is how it supposed to act.

As the trigger starts back, the cylinder stop should start moving down at once, and clear the cylinder before the hand comes out and turns it.

Next, as the cylinder just starts to turn, the cylinder stop should pop up, and rub the outside of the cylinder until it has turned to the next chamber, where the stop will pop up into the next notch and hold it firmly.

Last, the sear should engage, and the gun be cocked in SA, or the hammer be drew back, and released under DA.

After the trigger is released, the nose on the trigger should move the cylinder stop forward a little, until the nose goes into the slot in the stop, where it will move back. However, it should not cause the stop to drop out of the cylinder, or be lower than it was. It should hold the cylinder just as tight before as after firing.

James K · October 3, 2014, 02:10 PM

Remember that on the Taurus, there is no need to remove the sideplate to check/replace the cylinder stop spring and plunger. Those parts are in the crane and all that is needed is to remove the front sideplate screw, open the crane and pull it forward out of the frame. Be careful that you don't lose the spring and plunger, though, they tend to fall out when the crane is removed.

Jim

September 29, 2014, 08:27 PM	#1
Unlicensed Dremel Junior member Join Date: February 13, 2014 Location: Flathead Valley, MT Posts: 2,187	Do I need to have this revolver repaired? Taurus 94, 9-shot .22lr. Looking at the gun from the back, the cylinder rotates counterclockwise with each shot. I cannot manually push the cylinder in that same direction. However, with moderately-light manual pressure with my fingers, the cylinder slips and rotates clockwise in 8 out of 9 positions (it stays put on the 9th one), then clicks into place in the next slight, until more pressure is applied. It functions fine. After the shot, with trigger held to rear, and hammer down, it will not manually turn in EITHER direction. But this bothers me a lot. I hear horror stories about Taurus warranty service - should I send it in?

October 2, 2014, 07:54 AM	#4
4V50 Gary Staff Join Date: November 2, 1998 Location: Colorado Posts: 21,838	Agree with Jim that when the action is at rest, the cylinder should not rotate. Are the cylinder notches clean? Is the stop fitted to each cylinder notch. Is there sufficient pressure pushing the stop up? __________________ Vigilantibus et non dormientibus jura subveniunt. *Molon Labe!*

September 30, 2014, 05:48 PM	#2
James K Member In Memoriam Join Date: March 17, 1999 Posts: 24,383	The cylinders of Taurus revolvers rotate counterclockwise (seen from the rear) in normal operation, so that is OK. And, with the trigger back and hammer down, the cylinder should not rotate either direction, so that is OK too. But with the gun at rest and trigger forward, it should not be possible to rotate the cylinder either direction with hand pressure. It sounds like the cylinder stop may not be coming up far enough to fully enter the notches in the cylinder or may be a bit too large to do so. First, remove the grips and give the gun a good soaking in a cleaner like Kroil in case the problem is just dirt or crud; let the gun drain and put a few drops of oil ahead of the hammer and ahead of the trigger. If the problem is just dirt, that should correct it. It sounds like a minor problem that any gunsmith can correct, but if it is a new gun, working on it or having someone else work on it will likely void the warranty; I would take it back where I bought it and see what they say. Jim

October 1, 2014, 11:14 PM	#3
Dixie Gunsmithing Moderator Emeritus Join Date: April 27, 2013 Location: Ohio Posts: 1,923	It definitely sounds like a worn down cylinder stop. If its new, it could be a bad new part that they missed. Anyhow, these aren't much, and are easy to fix. The only other thing, that I could think of, would be the small flutes cut for clearance at the cylinder stop recesses on the cylinder, being too deep, and the stop being barely caught by them over it. However, I would guess it being just the cylinder stop itself before that.

October 2, 2014, 07:12 PM	#5
tangolima Senior Member Join Date: September 28, 2013 Posts: 3,825	Even the cylinder stop is not fitted correctly, the hand should keep the cylinder from rotating backward (clockwise in this case), unless the hand fitment is also substandard. I bet this revolver may not sing right. Pull back the trigger slight, just enough for the cylinder to rotate. Now rotate manually. It should only go counter-clock-wise. And it should ratchet. That ratcheting sound is the sing, which is caused by the hand going over the ratchet. If there is any trigger position the sing stops, the cylinder is free wheeling, and something is not kosher with the hand fitment. New gun? The manufacturer should fix it under warranty. -TL

October 2, 2014, 10:35 PM	#6
Unlicensed Dremel Junior member Join Date: February 13, 2014 Location: Flathead Valley, MT Posts: 2,187	I feel like the pressure pushing the cylinder stop up is very weak, so maybe that's it. I hope so, because that's an easier fix than if the cylinder notches are too shallow. Yeah, it's pretty clean. I will try the degreasing thing, but I think it needs a stronger cylinder stop spring at a minimum. That's cheap enough that it would be easier to do it myself perhaps, than to send to Taurus. Is it simple to replace this part or will I open a pandora's box in there? Thanks all.

October 3, 2014, 04:09 AM	#7
Dixie Gunsmithing Moderator Emeritus Join Date: April 27, 2013 Location: Ohio Posts: 1,923	The hand should catch it too, but according to how the ratchet is made, pressure might cause it to push back, and allow rotation. My guess is, that the top of the cylinder stop is not protruding through the frame far enough to get a good bite in the cylinder notches to hold it. Since it barely would have a bite, a little pressure could cause it to simply cam down, and let the cylinder turn. That would also say that whoever fitted the stop, probably didn't keep the top edge square and sharp, and may have beveled it or rounded it over when they stoned it. It could be dirt, but that would be a mighty dirty action, to plug that up enough to keep that stop from popping up all the way in its hole. If its new, or looks cared for, I'm thinking it more a part problem. When that gun is working right, the following is how it supposed to act. As the trigger starts back, the cylinder stop should start moving down at once, and clear the cylinder before the hand comes out and turns it. Next, as the cylinder just starts to turn, the cylinder stop should pop up, and rub the outside of the cylinder until it has turned to the next chamber, where the stop will pop up into the next notch and hold it firmly. Last, the sear should engage, and the gun be cocked in SA, or the hammer be drew back, and released under DA. After the trigger is released, the nose on the trigger should move the cylinder stop forward a little, until the nose goes into the slot in the stop, where it will move back. However, it should not cause the stop to drop out of the cylinder, or be lower than it was. It should hold the cylinder just as tight before as after firing.

October 3, 2014, 02:10 PM	#8
James K Member In Memoriam Join Date: March 17, 1999 Posts: 24,383	Remember that on the Taurus, there is no need to remove the sideplate to check/replace the cylinder stop spring and plunger. Those parts are in the crane and all that is needed is to remove the front sideplate screw, open the crane and pull it forward out of the frame. Be careful that you don't lose the spring and plunger, though, they tend to fall out when the crane is removed. Jim