Is Colt Python 2020 worth $1,500?

[jackmoser65]

The selling point here is not so much the level of shine but the way in which it was attained. Colt had years during the `70's and `80's when a lot of their guns were polished very poorly. Mostly overdone. In the `80's the polishing department even went on strike and that is why we saw such roughly finished guns as the Peacekeeper and Whitetailer. It was until US Firearms came into the picture and started taking away sales that Colt finally decided to up their game and stop polishing their SAA's like they were mad at them. Which is why the current SAA is the best they've ever been, not the least of which is the way they are polished. This carries over to the Python. Whether it's important to you or not, the finish is a significant upgrade over anything available from Smith or Ruger. In fact, the whole gun is an upgrade over Smith or Ruger. Where Smith has been cheapening their guns for years, they can hardly claim an advantage over Ruger any more. Thirty years ago, we might've had an argument about that. Not any more. Smith uses MIM parts and two piece barrels, the Python is all milled steel. Where the Smith is polished in a tumbler and covered in swirl marks, the Python is polished the old fashioned way and very good at that.

Many of you don't sound like shooters at all.

Guns with a higher level of fit and finish cannot also be shot, carried in holsters and hunted with?

The discussion is about the new Colt Python, its value and the things that set it apart from the competition. The finish is a major component in that. If this is unimportant to you, why even bother responding? I've always been amazed at people who don't care about such fine details asserting some sort of moral superiority over those who do.

[wild cat mccane]

I'm a high volume shooter...(why I would take a 686 over the Python old/new).

And I'm saying a $7 Mothers Mag Polish can will take a Taurus/Ruger/S&W bead blast down to a shine.

Scoff all you want, but I've hand polished Taurus 66s to the same shine as a Python. Just takes a rag and lots of time. It's not the starting material.Colt doesn't hold some patent on a secret technique. Colt isn't using a special stainless steel. Colt certainly isn't using a copyright polish. Colt isn't using a copyright polishing wheel.

I'll let go if the 686 is better than the 3-4 times more expensive Python, but having polished the other big three--no. It's a bit silly to say a person with a 686 couldn't turn that finish into exactly the same as the Python. Absolutely doesn't make sense.

[JohnKSa]

Yes, it's possible to polish any reasonably decent quality forged steel gun to the same smoothness of finish as a vintage Python with a rag, polish and a LOT of time.

No, it's not really possible to do it in such a way that someone who knows what a proper polish job looks like would be fooled into thinking it was a proper polish job. Not with just a rag and polish. It takes special equipment and skill to do it properly.

Proper metal polishing on an item like a firearm is more complicated than just achieving a certain level of smoothness/shininess.

That said, I am not claiming that the new Pythons have the same level of polish job as the originals--I don't know one way or the other.

[jetinteriorguy]

To me if you want a new Python and can afford it $1500.00 isn’t totally out of line. But, if I wanted to spend $1500.00 on a revolver I’d just be patient and find a nice 4” Model 27 and be much more satisfied both aesthetically and functionally. While the finish on a new Python may or may not be superior, I don’t know since I have no direct experience, but I do know for me it wouldn’t matter. I shoot my guns and use them so that super micro fine polishing wouldn’t last long enough to matter.

[wild cat mccane]

We're now accepting stainless steel can be polished by hand like the $2K Python.

It doesn't take an ounce of skill and only about 2 hours total. If you don't use a wheel, you're not going to get the feared spotting. Your hand and a rag can't heat up the steel hot enough to create spotting. You don't even have to push hard. Once you've polished one area to remove the finish on the 686/GP100/Taurus 66, you're done. You can't take it further--meaning you can't over polish it. With Mothers Mag polish, swirls aren't possible because it's a micro finish. Ie, your eye can't see anything but a nice finish. So this idea that it takes technique is silly. There is literally no possible way to screw it up.

So if the 2020 Python is worth the current $2K because of its finish...the answer to the original question is no. Don't kid yourself.

[Moenie]

Some people can appreciate a Python. Others cannot.

Appreciation is subjective and arguing about that makes as much sense sense as arguing whether the color blue is better than the color red. There is no right and there is no wrong.

In my personal and obviously subjective view, a polished 686 does not equal a Python. I'd happily pay 3 times or more for a Python than a 686, and have does so several times already. I will do so again.

I will not buy another MIM S&W until S&W steps up their QA and produce the same level of quality they did 20 - 30 years ago. As an owner of original Pythons and the new version, I can attest that the quality of the current version is as good as the original. 686's not so much.

Hence, I'm of the opinion the new Python is worth it's asking price, a new 686 is not. YMMV, but I really don't care.

[Moenie]

Originally Posted by jetinteriorguy

But, if I wanted to spend $1500.00 on a revolver I’d just be patient and find a nice 4” Model 27 and be much more satisfied both aesthetically and functionally. .

Hard to argue against that. Pre and low dash mod 27's are some of the best revolvers made IMHO. Whenever I come across one reasonably priced and in good condition I snap them up.

[jackmoser65]

It doesn't take an ounce of skill and only about 2 hours total. If you don't use a wheel, you're not going to get the feared spotting. Your hand and a rag can't heat up the steel hot enough to create spotting. You don't even have to push hard. Once you've polished one area to remove the finish on the 686/GP100/Taurus 66, you're done. You can't take it further--meaning you can't over polish it. With Mothers Mag polish, swirls aren't possible because it's a micro finish. Ie, your eye can't see anything but a nice finish. So this idea that it takes technique is silly. There is literally no possible way to screw it up.

Reading comprehension is obviously not your strong suit.

[Bill DeShivs]

Because the surface texture of metal is shiny doesn't mean it's properly polished.

Wild Cat McCane- you have no idea about properly polishing a gun. It's quite a bit more complicated than using polish and a rag. Several people have explained this to you, but you seem oblivious to the facts.

[jackmoser65]

It doesn't take an ounce of skill...

Some light reading. Let your education begin here.

https://www.amazon.com/Custom-Revolv.../dp/B009DUOWLQ

[Reloadron]

When all is said and done it really matters not because the only person who needs to be happy is whoever owns the gun, any gun. So threads like this can drag on another six pages and nothing is going to change. While finish may add to the value of a gun I never saw a gun which functioned better because it was pretty.

There is more to polishing a finish than a rag and Mothers Polishing compound. Those who have stood in front of a buffing and polishing wheel know the drill and the different grits involved to get from point A to B. It's a messy job too.

Again it matters not and none of polishing or buffing has anything at all to do with is a New Model Colt Python worth $1,500? Some people will say yes and others will say no. Really only matters to someone considering buying one. The only one who needs to come away happy is the person putting down the money for what will be their gun. I have not seen the New Model Colt Python and don't know what separates it from the old model of the same gun. Would I pay $1,500 for another S&W Model 27 or pre Model 27? Absolutely I would if the gun was clean and no wear. Would I pay $1,500 for another S&W Model 586? Nope, regardless of condition.

Anyway the only person who needs to be pleased with a gun, any gun, is the one holding it.

Ron

[JohnKSa]

We're now accepting stainless steel can be polished by hand like the $2K Python.

No. not "like the $2K Python". Can a the same level of smoothness/shininess be achieved, yes, but that's not the same thing. There's more to polishing a firearm than just achieving a particular level of smoothness.

There is literally no possible way to screw it up.

If the polish is taking off enough metal to remove all the factory scratches/swirls/matte finish then it's taking off enough metal to screw things up.

Furthermore, making a truly great polished finish takes prep before the final polish starts. You can't just pick up any piece of metal and grab some polish. The surfaces need to be right to start with.

I have a GP100. I could polish it to a mirror finish and it would be really shiny but it won't ever be a great polish job because whoever did the final factory finish was sloppy and rounded corners and edges and made some other mistakes. It would be impossible to go back and fix all that because it would require adding metal back in places. Can I make it super shiny? YES. Can I put a great polish job on it? No, not at this point.

And even if it hadn't been screwed up at the factory, getting a really great polish job would take more than just a rag, polish and time to make everything right.

[wild cat mccane]

My Taurus 66 with just the front of the barrel done.

[JohnKSa]

If you like how it looks, then that's what really matters. Some years ago, I did some polishing on my first GP100 and I felt like it improved its overall appearance.

[wild cat mccane]

I just want everyone who told me I'm wrong to respond to my picture of me actually doing what I'm talking about...

I'll post up my 686/GP100/66 6" if wanted...

More embarrassing. Here is my Rossi 972. Cost me $280 when they were selling them a few years ago. Finish? Factory from Taurus like this:




That's a finish on a $280 dollar retail priced gun...

[JohnKSa]

If what you're doing gives you satisfaction at the results, then why worry about it?

Look at it this way. Some folks want a fancy wine with their dinner and can tell you all about the differences in wines--personally, I'd rather have a coke--I can't tell one wine from another and think it would be a waste of time to try to learn all that stuff. So if you'd rather have a coke, like me, why get all cranked up over the differences in various wines?

The size pictures you're posting are not going to provide any useful information.

Flats should be perfectly flat, markings crisp, edges sharp. No blurring of edges, rounding of corners, no waves in the surface. It's pretty rare for a factory gun to be that way to begin with--that's why we see so many matte finishes from the factory. They are quick and easy to apply and hide/de-emphasize imperfections.

When I polished my GP100, the smoother surface revealed a lot of issues that weren't really apparent with the factory finish. I liked how it looked after, but I haven't polished it again for that reason.

[Bill DeShivs]

You can polish a 320 grit finish with 2000 grit polish, but you are not removing the 320 grit lines-just blurring them over.
A proper polish would be 400, 600, 1000, 1500, 2000 grits.
I'm afraid this is lost here....

[shurshot]

"Smith uses MIM parts and two piece barrels, the Python is all milled steel." "Smith has been cheapening their guns for years", (Jackmoser65)

So are we comparing the new Colt Python to the new S&W 66, or to an an equivalent flagship model in the S&W lineup like the 27 or 29? It wouldn't be fair to compare a S&W 27 to a Colt King Cobra, would it?


New S&W models, 27 and 29 had one piece barrels and beautiful bluing the last I knew. I just sold the 27 (586 is all I need), but my 29-10 .44 is pretty nice, nothing "cheap" about it. FAR Stronger than the older 29's I owned in the past and very nice to look at, MIM parts or not.

[KyJim]

I know next to nothing about finishing a gun. I can tell you that I bought a used SW Model 65 years ago and spent hours and hours polishing it with Mothers' and a rag. When I finished, it was much shinier, which is what I wanted for the gun.

Even to my untrained eye, it was not anywhere near the same quality as either the finish on my 2020 Colt Python or the Ultimate Stainless finish on my "old model" 8-inch barreled Python.

BTW, there's a couple of upcoming articles in Shooting Illustrated on the 2020 Python. The writer is definitely pre-disposed to love the Python in his preview video on YouTube.

[jackmoser65]

I just want everyone who told me I'm wrong to respond to my picture of me actually doing what I'm talking about...

Pictures change nothing. They're not big enough but if they were, it wouldn't help your case. We've all seen exactly what you're talking about. You obviously just do not understand what we are talking about. In order to understand, you will have to open your mind and entertain the idea that those guns you polished with wheel polish are NOT finished like a Python. Some of your ideas are 180 degrees from reality. Polishing metal work takes a great deal of skill. It is not merely putting a shine on something. I do not know how it is now but in years past, it took years of apprenticeship in the polishing department before you ever got to touch a Python or SAA. Read that again, YEARS OF APPRENTICESHIP. Does that sound like "not an ounce of skill"?

Over the decades, I have had custom work done on dozens of revolvers. From basic action work to full blown customs. I can tell you from experience, both in doing it myself and having a gunsmith perform the work, putting a Python level polish on a revolver takes a lot of hours or a lot more money. These days, I would expect at least $500, probably closer to $1000. Any of the custom gunsmiths who offer a "Best Grade" custom revolver are getting a substantial upcharge for hand finishing. The starting prices for a Bowen Best Grade is over $5000 and much of the reason is hand finishing. But no, dude that polished his Taurus with a rag and wheel polish while sitting in front of the boob tube, he knows better.

So are we comparing the new Colt Python to the new S&W 66, or to an an equivalent flagship model in the S&W lineup like the 27 or 29? It wouldn't be fair to compare a S&W 27 to a Colt King Cobra, would it?

At present there is no functional difference in this context. A 629 is not made or finished any differently than a 686.

FAR Stronger than the older 29's I owned in the past and very nice to look at, MIM parts or not.

Stronger, how??? The new Classics aren't as well finished as the Bangor Punta era guns. You'd have to go all the way back to the Registered Magnum to find a Smith as well finished as the current Python.

[shurshot]

The new classics are a different style/ type of bluing, yes, I agree. I own new and old S&W's. The new ones are different, sure, but still pretty nice, at least to me. The older ones, yes,
I do prefer that deep vintage blue, I'll agree with you on that... I also prefer no lock holes either. I like both old and new S&W's.
As far as how they are stronger...?? Do you have much experience with S&W 29's? Not trying to be snarky, but it's pretty well known that the 29 has evolved over the decades, becoming more stronger and durable. If you search the threads here you will find details outlining various modifications, improvements, etc.

[jackmoser65]

To start, most people are going to compare a medium frame .357 to other medium frame .357's and that is what we are doing here. The new Python is stainless. The new model 27 Classic is not only a large frame but it is blued as well. That said, it's not polished like the Python either. Not talking about the bluing.

The only significant change was the so called endurance package in the 90's and that did very little to alleviate issues with them shooting loose. Experience? Yes, I've had them rebuilt before and have since relegated them to light duty.

[shurshot]

I should have clarified more. I wasn't referring so much as to frame size, as to comparing the Colt vs. S&W "Flagship" (top of the line models), Python vs. S&W 27 / 29.

If you were comparing strictly frame size, .357 vs. .357, I misunderstood. I read your post as that you were making generalizations between Colt and S&W flagship models, not specific frame sizes. And yes, you stated valid points, I agree.. the new Python is vastly superior to the new S&W 66. No argument here. I'm not a fan of 2 piece barrels or what the new 66 looks like.

Pertaining to polish, I have used Mothers on Smith's and Rugers, it worked very well. I couldn't get mine to Python level though. No way.

[jackmoser65]

I might've considered it that way if the current 27/29 was the flagship it used to be.

[shurshot]

On that point, we disagree.