Stuck case removal methods

SKULLANDCROSSBONES65 · February 9, 2010, 03:01 AM

G'day. I would like to hear of different methods to remove stuck cases from a die.
Who has a method that dosen't damage the brass?

colospgsAVID · February 9, 2010, 03:24 AM

you can call that brass done. I've never saved a stuck case. You'll be lucky to save the beller. On the one stuck case I've had I had to buy a new die.Got it out but ruined the beller. I used everything to get the case out I had... channel locks, vise-grips Et Cetera There are tools for this. I don't have them though.

EDIT: I am a mechanic and I am pretty resourceful.

Shoney · February 9, 2010, 05:09 AM

Sorry I don't have this in metric/

13/64" drill bit to drill out flash hole

1/4" Tap to tap the inside of the drilled out flash hole

1/2" Socket (1/4" drive) goes up against die and allows stuck case to be pulled into it

1/4" x 1 1/2" Washer on top of socket (keeps bolt from gouging the top of the socket)

1/4" x 1" Machine bolt goes into threaded flash hole and is turned to pull case out
If you need extra insurance, complete the above to get the setup ready, leave the die in the feezer over night, then pull.

Uncle Buck · February 9, 2010, 09:40 AM

I used a tap to remove the two stuck cases I had. I figured the case was done and would not be able to be re-used, so I cut the head off of the case and ran a tap into it.

The die was held in a vice (threads protected) and I would slowly turn the tool while tapping on the vice grips which held the tap. (Tapping the tap? Sounds like a kids story)

It was very slow going and the progress was almost imperceptible. I never thought about freezing it before I started.

F. Guffey · February 9, 2010, 10:32 AM

Not my method, I did not develop the technique and or method, but I had help in sticking a few cases, friend had a small ring Mauser chambered in 7.65mm39 Russian that had accuracy problems and did not have dies, the rifle was built by a friend (smith) with little details but with the understanding the rifle was built because of the availability of 'cheap' ammo, THEN they decided to turn it into a bench rest rifle, problem, the distance from the chamber to the lands was not considered a jump, it was in my opinion a 'leap'.

They did not have a lot of reloadable cases, I do/did, (saving the stuck case) I will not say this will work on longer cases as in 30/06, 270, etc., but it does work on shorter cases. Older RCBS dies have a small diameter primer punch/sizer ball assembly, the assembly is not strong enough to punch much more than the primer out and should not be used when necking cases up without a good lube. Later model dies have an assembly with a larger diameter that is stronger and can be used to push a stuck case out if done slowly.

With all the help and no lube on a case one case stuck, they thought the day was over, I jammed two nuts togather on the stem above the die and screwed the assembly down against the stuck case, then slowly added pressure, do not know if pushing on the case from the inside made the case longer and by doing so reduced the diameter, WE stuck two cases, both were pushed out, could be something to pushing verses pulling, cases that are stuck and have a tapper do not require much movement.

Pulling stuck cases, like everyone else I drill and tap the flash hole, I place a support ring over the stuck case that sits on the die then insert the bolt through a support washer on the bolt with a nut threaded on the bolt above the washer, then thread the bolt, washer, nut assembly into the drilled and tapped flash hole and secure, instead of tightening the bolt, I hold the bolt with one wrench and turn the nut down to apply pressure on the washer, this method removes the case by pulling instead of pulling and rotating.

F. Guffey

F. Guffey · February 9, 2010, 10:45 AM

Holding a die: Again I drill the flash hole out to accommodate a cleaning rod or wood dowel when determine the maximum COL (case overall length) or distance to the lands for a particular bullet. I either drill the case while it is in the press or remove the die with the case in the die from the press and screw in in from the bottom, then use the lock nut to secure the die. This method works when holding the die for drilling and tapping and when using the case puller, slide hammers/dent pullers also work.

F. Guffey

**Unclenick** · February 9, 2010, 10:56 AM

I'll second the recommendation for the slide hammer. Small ones are available at Woodcraft. I've had two stuck cases lose their heads to the nut type pullers. You want the impact shock from the slide hammer working for you. I also recommend you submerge the die and case in Kroil or other penetrating oil for a couple of days after drilling and tapping the primer pocket. Then put the thing in the freezer several hours before using the slide hammer with it. Brass has a large linear coefficient of expansion than steel, so it shrinks more than the steel does in the freezer.

Chaz88 · February 9, 2010, 11:01 AM

If you happen to have a CO2 bottle you can make dry ice to quickly freeze something for press fit removal or installation. You need to use a face shield, gloves, apron and long sleeves. Hook a hose up to bottle put item to be frozen in a small, preferably metal, dish. Turn the bottle up side down and carefully open valve and pour the liquid in dish. The rapid evaporation of the liquid will lower the temperature turning it into dry ice. Be very careful dry ice will freeze burn you on contact.

SKULLANDCROSSBONES65 · February 9, 2010, 04:23 PM

G'day. I don't have a stuck case yet, I'm just getting ready for them.

I have access to several CO2 fire extinguishers (needing disposal) and was thinking that they might be handy.

Chaz88 · February 9, 2010, 07:32 PM

The only problem with fire extinguishers is the valve is normally off or wide open. Might blow liquid CO2 all over when you opened it. That is not something you want on you at all. If you could put a secondary valve in the hose it might work. At work we had large bottles upside sown in a stand. At home I use a small bottle that also runs my keg cooler.

Suwannee Tim · February 9, 2010, 10:26 PM

Best way to deal with a stuck case is never stick one. This is doable if you are careful. I have never stuck one but my brother has stuck several and I have done a whole lot more loading than him. You have to lube them right and when you run one in the die and it is hard, stop and pull it out, lube it more. The slide hammer is a good idea. Metals are much stronger under impact loads than slow load. This also applies to removing a hard nut or bolt, use an impact wrench.

F. Guffey · February 10, 2010, 08:45 AM

If there was just one answer, I never agreed with honing cylinders just because the engine was disassembled and the hone was available AND because I was told to, I decided the glass finish of the cylinder can not be duplicated and unless overheated can not be duplicated, 100% contact between the sealing/compressionon/whippingng ring is better than all the scratches and cross hatch patters created when using abrasives (on a straight cylinder).

A collector/shooter/reloader in Bradford PA. sent me a RCBS 30/06 die with a stuck case, I removed the stuck case, then set the die up to size 100 cases with lube etc., I stuck the first two, the dies belonged to his dad, the dies looked like most of my dies, what happened? I do not know but I clean dies with a towel on dowelle, the towel is embeddable and will clean/wipe the die, what I do not want to remove from the finish of the die is the finish and the effect use and time has had on the die.
(to be fair and objective, he did not send a few of the cases that he was sizing when he stuck the case)

The die did not start sizing without sticking until I had sized at least 30 cases, I sent the die back with a fabricateded case puller, later he said he would keep the die as an extra but would never have confidence in it, I do not know what lube he used, I do not know if he was ill advised to use metherethel keytone, spray on brake cleaner or some other chemical that disolves finishes and lube from surfaces, I do not encourage cleaning dies to bare metal (inside).

The general concences is sizing a case is sizing a case as though the behavior of a case is identical for every case, I have sized 300 Win Mag cases for two different rifles at one setting, the difference in resistance to being sized told me there was something wrong with one (new) Winchester Model 70 300 Win Mag. I sent the rifle back after we had words, like Mr Smith and his dad's 30/06 die, I do not have confidence in the Winchester rifle, it was returned to me 2 years ago, I have not taken it to the range, and, I was never informed as to what they 'choose' to do to remedy the problem.

F. Guffey

Sky Master · February 10, 2010, 06:49 PM

I agree with Unclenick, I had a case stuck in the cylinder of my S&W Model 27 put the gun in the freezer for about an hour out popped the case.

mrawesome22 · February 10, 2010, 11:25 PM

Don't shoot ridiculously hot loads and use Imperial size wax.

February 9, 2010, 03:01 AM	#1
SKULLANDCROSSBONES65 Senior Member Join Date: August 19, 2008 Location: Far Nth Wst QLD Australia Posts: 992	Stuck case removal methods G'day. I would like to hear of different methods to remove stuck cases from a die. Who has a method that dosen't damage the brass? __________________ If you're not confused, you're not trying hard enough! When you're confused, I'll try to use smaller words!!!

February 9, 2010, 05:09 AM	#3
Shoney Senior Member Join Date: February 21, 2002 Location: Transplanted from Montana Posts: 2,311	Sorry I don't have this in metric/ 13/64" drill bit to drill out flash hole 1/4" Tap to tap the inside of the drilled out flash hole 1/2" Socket (1/4" drive) goes up against die and allows stuck case to be pulled into it 1/4" x 1 1/2" Washer on top of socket (keeps bolt from gouging the top of the socket) 1/4" x 1" Machine bolt goes into threaded flash hole and is turned to pull case out If you need extra insurance, complete the above to get the setup ready, leave the die in the feezer over night, then pull. __________________ I pledge allegiance to the Flag - - -, and to the Republic for which it stands….Our Forefathers were brilliant for giving us a Republic, not a democracy! Do you know the difference??? and WHY?http://www.wallbuilders.com/LIBissue...les.asp?id=111

February 9, 2010, 09:40 AM	#4
Uncle Buck Senior Member Join Date: June 21, 2009 Location: West Central Missouri Posts: 2,592	I used a tap to remove the two stuck cases I had. I figured the case was done and would not be able to be re-used, so I cut the head off of the case and ran a tap into it. The die was held in a vice (threads protected) and I would slowly turn the tool while tapping on the vice grips which held the tap. (Tapping the tap? Sounds like a kids story) It was very slow going and the progress was almost imperceptible. I never thought about freezing it before I started. __________________ Inside Every Bright Idea Is The 50% Probability Of A Disaster Waiting To Happen.

February 9, 2010, 10:56 AM	#7
Unclenick Staff Join Date: March 4, 2005 Location: Ohio Posts: 21,063	I'll second the recommendation for the slide hammer. Small ones are available at Woodcraft. I've had two stuck cases lose their heads to the nut type pullers. You want the impact shock from the slide hammer working for you. I also recommend you submerge the die and case in Kroil or other penetrating oil for a couple of days after drilling and tapping the primer pocket. Then put the thing in the freezer several hours before using the slide hammer with it. Brass has a large linear coefficient of expansion than steel, so it shrinks more than the steel does in the freezer. __________________ Gunsite Orange Hat Family Member CMP Certified GSM Master Instructor NRA Certified Rifle Instructor NRA Benefactor Member and Golden Eagle Last edited by Unclenick; February 9, 2010 at 11:02 AM.

February 9, 2010, 11:01 AM	#8
Chaz88 Senior Member Join Date: January 4, 2010 Posts: 1,243	If you happen to have a CO2 bottle you can make dry ice to quickly freeze something for press fit removal or installation. You need to use a face shield, gloves, apron and long sleeves. Hook a hose up to bottle put item to be frozen in a small, preferably metal, dish. Turn the bottle up side down and carefully open valve and pour the liquid in dish. The rapid evaporation of the liquid will lower the temperature turning it into dry ice. Be very careful dry ice will freeze burn you on contact. __________________ Seams like once we the people give what, at the time, seams like a reasonable inch and "they" take the unreasonable mile we can only get that mile back one inch at a time. No spelun and grammar is not my specialty. So please don't hurt my sensitive little feelings by teasing me about it.

February 9, 2010, 03:24 AM	#2
colospgsAVID Senior Member Join Date: January 2, 2010 Location: Colorado Springs Posts: 188	you can call that brass done. I've never saved a stuck case. You'll be lucky to save the beller. On the one stuck case I've had I had to buy a new die.Got it out but ruined the beller. I used everything to get the case out I had... channel locks, vise-grips Et Cetera There are tools for this. I don't have them though. EDIT: I am a mechanic and I am pretty resourceful.

February 9, 2010, 10:32 AM	#5
F. Guffey Senior Member Join Date: July 18, 2008 Posts: 7,249	Not my method, I did not develop the technique and or method, but I had help in sticking a few cases, friend had a small ring Mauser chambered in 7.65mm39 Russian that had accuracy problems and did not have dies, the rifle was built by a friend (smith) with little details but with the understanding the rifle was built because of the availability of 'cheap' ammo, THEN they decided to turn it into a bench rest rifle, problem, the distance from the chamber to the lands was not considered a jump, it was in my opinion a 'leap'. They did not have a lot of reloadable cases, I do/did, (saving the stuck case) I will not say this will work on longer cases as in 30/06, 270, etc., but it does work on shorter cases. Older RCBS dies have a small diameter primer punch/sizer ball assembly, the assembly is not strong enough to punch much more than the primer out and should not be used when necking cases up without a good lube. Later model dies have an assembly with a larger diameter that is stronger and can be used to push a stuck case out if done slowly. With all the help and no lube on a case one case stuck, they thought the day was over, I jammed two nuts togather on the stem above the die and screwed the assembly down against the stuck case, then slowly added pressure, do not know if pushing on the case from the inside made the case longer and by doing so reduced the diameter, WE stuck two cases, both were pushed out, could be something to pushing verses pulling, cases that are stuck and have a tapper do not require much movement. Pulling stuck cases, like everyone else I drill and tap the flash hole, I place a support ring over the stuck case that sits on the die then insert the bolt through a support washer on the bolt with a nut threaded on the bolt above the washer, then thread the bolt, washer, nut assembly into the drilled and tapped flash hole and secure, instead of tightening the bolt, I hold the bolt with one wrench and turn the nut down to apply pressure on the washer, this method removes the case by pulling instead of pulling and rotating. F. Guffey

February 9, 2010, 10:45 AM	#6
F. Guffey Senior Member Join Date: July 18, 2008 Posts: 7,249	Holding a die: Again I drill the flash hole out to accommodate a cleaning rod or wood dowel when determine the maximum COL (case overall length) or distance to the lands for a particular bullet. I either drill the case while it is in the press or remove the die with the case in the die from the press and screw in in from the bottom, then use the lock nut to secure the die. This method works when holding the die for drilling and tapping and when using the case puller, slide hammers/dent pullers also work. F. Guffey

February 9, 2010, 04:23 PM	#9
SKULLANDCROSSBONES65 Senior Member Join Date: August 19, 2008 Location: Far Nth Wst QLD Australia Posts: 992	G'day. I don't have a stuck case yet, I'm just getting ready for them. I have access to several CO2 fire extinguishers (needing disposal) and was thinking that they might be handy. __________________ If you're not confused, you're not trying hard enough! When you're confused, I'll try to use smaller words!!!

February 9, 2010, 07:32 PM	#10
Chaz88 Senior Member Join Date: January 4, 2010 Posts: 1,243	The only problem with fire extinguishers is the valve is normally off or wide open. Might blow liquid CO2 all over when you opened it. That is not something you want on you at all. If you could put a secondary valve in the hose it might work. At work we had large bottles upside sown in a stand. At home I use a small bottle that also runs my keg cooler. __________________ Seams like once we the people give what, at the time, seams like a reasonable inch and "they" take the unreasonable mile we can only get that mile back one inch at a time. No spelun and grammar is not my specialty. So please don't hurt my sensitive little feelings by teasing me about it.

February 9, 2010, 10:26 PM	#11
Suwannee Tim Senior Member Join Date: June 27, 2009 Location: Jacksonville, FL Posts: 320	Best way to deal with a stuck case is never stick one. This is doable if you are careful. I have never stuck one but my brother has stuck several and I have done a whole lot more loading than him. You have to lube them right and when you run one in the die and it is hard, stop and pull it out, lube it more. The slide hammer is a good idea. Metals are much stronger under impact loads than slow load. This also applies to removing a hard nut or bolt, use an impact wrench.

February 10, 2010, 08:45 AM	#12
F. Guffey Senior Member Join Date: July 18, 2008 Posts: 7,249	If there was just one answer, I never agreed with honing cylinders just because the engine was disassembled and the hone was available AND because I was told to, I decided the glass finish of the cylinder can not be duplicated and unless overheated can not be duplicated, 100% contact between the sealing/compressionon/whippingng ring is better than all the scratches and cross hatch patters created when using abrasives (on a straight cylinder). A collector/shooter/reloader in Bradford PA. sent me a RCBS 30/06 die with a stuck case, I removed the stuck case, then set the die up to size 100 cases with lube etc., I stuck the first two, the dies belonged to his dad, the dies looked like most of my dies, what happened? I do not know but I clean dies with a towel on dowelle, the towel is embeddable and will clean/wipe the die, what I do not want to remove from the finish of the die is the finish and the effect use and time has had on the die. (to be fair and objective, he did not send a few of the cases that he was sizing when he stuck the case) The die did not start sizing without sticking until I had sized at least 30 cases, I sent the die back with a fabricateded case puller, later he said he would keep the die as an extra but would never have confidence in it, I do not know what lube he used, I do not know if he was ill advised to use metherethel keytone, spray on brake cleaner or some other chemical that disolves finishes and lube from surfaces, I do not encourage cleaning dies to bare metal (inside). The general concences is sizing a case is sizing a case as though the behavior of a case is identical for every case, I have sized 300 Win Mag cases for two different rifles at one setting, the difference in resistance to being sized told me there was something wrong with one (new) Winchester Model 70 300 Win Mag. I sent the rifle back after we had words, like Mr Smith and his dad's 30/06 die, I do not have confidence in the Winchester rifle, it was returned to me 2 years ago, I have not taken it to the range, and, I was never informed as to what they 'choose' to do to remedy the problem. F. Guffey

February 10, 2010, 06:49 PM	#13
Sky Master Senior Member Join Date: May 30, 2009 Posts: 136	I agree with Unclenick, I had a case stuck in the cylinder of my S&W Model 27 put the gun in the freezer for about an hour out popped the case.

February 10, 2010, 11:25 PM	#14
mrawesome22 Senior Member Join Date: November 9, 2005 Location: Ohio, Appalachia's foothills. Posts: 3,779	Don't shoot ridiculously hot loads and use Imperial size wax.