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July 11, 2009, 11:47 AM | #1 |
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"improperly staked gas keys"?
could somebody help me out...what does improperly staked or not staked gas keys mean? i was reading a thread over on ar15.com about dpms rifles suffering from said problem. i just bought one now im thinking i made a mistake... what gives?
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July 11, 2009, 12:07 PM | #2 |
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The gas key is the little thingy that sticks up on top of the bolt carrier and has a hole to fit over the end of the gas tube (this is what makes the rifle cycle when high-pressure gas comes from the barrel). It is bolted onto the top of the bolt carrier with 2 socket-head or Torx screws. Thes screws can back out due to vibration, allowing the gas key to move around and causing misalignment with the gas tube and generally reduced reliability of cycling when the rifle is fired. "Staking" is using a punch or swage to raise the metal around the screws so that it jams the screws, causing a physical lock and keeping them from loosening. Many AR rifles come with gas keys poorly staked or not staked at all.
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July 11, 2009, 12:15 PM | #3 |
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http://m4carbine.net/showthread.php?t=6993
If yours is mediocre or bad, it's easy to fix or get fixed. |
July 11, 2009, 12:18 PM | #4 |
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Seriously people make a real big deal out of nothing. If you have a small punch, a hammer and a vise you can stake it yourself in under a minute.
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July 11, 2009, 01:05 PM | #5 |
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thanks!
thanks scorch and zoomie.... VERY helpful!
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July 11, 2009, 01:12 PM | #6 | |
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Quote:
WilditscooltodayAlaska ™ |
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July 11, 2009, 08:36 PM | #7 |
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It's much more "fashionable" to post about "improperly staked gas keys" than to not post about "improperly staked gas keys." Chances are, if your AR's gas key is staked, it'll work just fine.
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July 11, 2009, 09:08 PM | #8 |
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If you bought your rifle for an accurate plinker at the range, you will probably be very happy with it. I have heard good things about their accuracy. As for things like a properly staked key, I would only worry about it if you are planning on using your gun for self defence or in case of an emergency. If so, then check out the attached links below:
http://spreadsheets.google.com/ccc?k...QsEuEhjFwPrgTA (Read the Explanation of Features, then the Specs Graph) http://www.tacticalyellowvisor.net/8343/16001.html http://forums.officer.com/forums/showthread.php?t=81462 These are resources I refer to from time to time when building my AR. If I wanted a gun for plinking, I would not really care beyond getting whatever options I wanted on the AR when I bought it. Hope that helps. |
July 11, 2009, 09:41 PM | #9 |
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so, once you stake it, how do you get it apart should you have to?
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July 11, 2009, 09:57 PM | #10 | ||
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Quote:
Yes all manufacturers should do it but if you can save $400 or $500 and get a bushmaster or CMMG and then just bang out a couple stakes I don't see what the big deal is. Quote:
Last edited by lipadj46; July 11, 2009 at 10:07 PM. |
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July 11, 2009, 10:06 PM | #11 | |
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Quote:
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Hundreds of years from now, it will not matter what my bank account was, the sort of house I lived in, or the kind of car I drove... But the world may be different because I did something so bafflingly crazy that my ruins become a tourist attraction. |
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July 11, 2009, 10:15 PM | #12 | |||
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Quote:
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Here hows this...attention to detail...if you cant bother properly staking the gas keys.......???? Quote:
WildsuchsillinessometimesAlaska TM |
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July 11, 2009, 10:21 PM | #13 |
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everything needs to be replaced eventually
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Hundreds of years from now, it will not matter what my bank account was, the sort of house I lived in, or the kind of car I drove... But the world may be different because I did something so bafflingly crazy that my ruins become a tourist attraction. |
July 11, 2009, 10:23 PM | #14 |
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If my gas key wears out I will probably be worrying about a lot more than that. WildhasanyoneherereplacedoneAlaska TM |
July 11, 2009, 10:30 PM | #15 |
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Me too. I've been machining, and turning wrenches for a couple of decades now, and I have learned a few things. make sure you can take it apart if you have to. If it is something you worry about comming loose, check it often.
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July 11, 2009, 11:13 PM | #16 |
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"Staking" is the same as peening. Keeps the part in place.
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July 12, 2009, 06:27 AM | #17 | ||
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Quote:
The only time I can even think of when it might have been necessary to remove a gas key is when a popped primer got crushed into gas key and blocked the flow of gas. We used a drill to grab the primer and pull it out through the opening without disassembling the key; but I suppose it is possible it might have been necessary to disassemble it. I'd much rather have the security of knowing my rifle isn't going to become a straight pull bolt action due to the gas key working loose than have the security of knowing I can replace the gas key, should it ever be necessary. Quote:
Pistol grip Telestock Quad rail Arms #40 Scope rings ACOG handle mount If it is mounted to an AR with threads, it needs to be staked or loctited if you want to keep it during the type of firing schedules you encounter in carbine courses. Otherwise it is just a matter of time. That is why the military requires gas keys be staked (and they remove a lot more of them than I ever will). By and large, I find the "stake and loctite" approach to be more practical for my uses than checking every threaded part on an AR during the limited downtime I have off the firing line in a course. |
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July 12, 2009, 08:09 AM | #18 | |
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Quote:
But now we are off topic as usual. |
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July 12, 2009, 10:42 AM | #19 | ||||
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Quote:
Quote:
And by the way, I am glad that I can provide Colts to folks at an affordable price. So are many others. Quote:
Quote:
WildreadthedepotmaintenancemanualsbythewayAlaska TM |
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July 12, 2009, 12:26 PM | #20 |
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I'm thinking about getting an AR in the somewhat near future. If you don't stake the gas keys, can you loctite them?
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July 12, 2009, 12:33 PM | #21 |
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Loctite doesn't like heat. Stake your gas key screws yourself and be done with it.
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July 12, 2009, 01:01 PM | #22 | |
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Old info, but still applicable...I think
I was a Small Arms Repairman (MOS 45B20) for Uncle Sam for most of the latter 1970s. We worked on the M16A1. We did everything, except repair on the lower reciever itself (that went to depot level maint).
Much of the specs I still recall clearly (and could look up if I needed to). The Bolt carrier key screws are to be torqued to 35-40 inch/lbs, and then staked. You (the user) don't take it apart. Ever! You (the unit armorer) don't take it apart. Ever! Me (the Direct/General Support Maint guy) only takes it apart to replace a damaged part. Period. Those were the Army rules in those days. Since there has been no fundmental change in the rifle's design (of those parts), I see no reason why they should not still apply. Quote:
For your personal AR, a drop of a loctite product (I use the product called "Guntite") is your friend. The carrier key screws, however, should still be staked.
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July 12, 2009, 02:17 PM | #23 |
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i really appreciate everyone's insight... thanks for sharing. i think i will post some pics of my gas keys so as to see what the majority thinks. hold tight!
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July 12, 2009, 02:32 PM | #24 |
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Should look like this...
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July 12, 2009, 05:49 PM | #25 |
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I can't imagine ever having to replace a gas key. However, I also can't imagine the blather about "improperly staked gas keys." My Bushy, with its (according to the "experts" on this and other forums) "improperly staked" gas key, is still going strong after 15 yrs. and thousands of rounds. Never fails. I had a choice between a Colt :barf: and a Bushy when I bought my first AR; only about $50 difference in price. Glad I got the Bushy. Never have seen a Colt outshoot my Bushy out at our local range.
Anybody who knows jack about ARs knows that the quality of the barrels and triggers is the only real difference in ARs, regardless of some sophomoric "chart"!!! |
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