Ruger 10/22 Standard, Target, Competition

[DaleA]

Maybe it's a dead horse that's been beaten to death (maybe more than once)...

BUT

Ruger has a new "competition" model 10/22 out for around $800.

Anybody want to chime in with their thoughts on the new "competition" model verses the old "target" model and the "standard" model?

I've never done it but for a while I really had an urge to try accurizing a 10/22 by a method shown to me whereby you get extra long pins that hold the trigger group to the the receiver and you drill holes in the stock so the pins go through the stock, thru the trigger group and thru the other side of the stock. The claim is this holds the receiver in the stock better and the whole gun shoots better.

I had a friend with the "target" model 10/22 from a few years ago (geez...I guess 10 years) who put what I thought was an overly large Nikon scope on his "target" model 10/22 and was only middling happy with the results. He was a dyed in the wool Ruger fanatic though and blamed his scope mount rather than the rifle or the scope.

So anybody, especially if you've had experience with the new factory "competition" model want to chime in?

[Pahoo]

So anybody, especially if you've had experience with the new factory "competition" model want to chime in

I have not but have some experience with the Target models and most of the upgrades that are available. I am a Ruger fan as well as a 10/22 fan but it's hard for me to justify spending this kind of money when I'm already there with the upgrades to the stock 10/22. The Target model does not live up to the expectations and price. Will say the same for the BX group or whatever it's called. ……

The best stock 10/22 that I have shot, is the Magnum Research and I suppose the Volts would be the same. ….

Be Safe !!!

[stinkeypete]

I also hang out on a chat board devoted entirely to rimfire firearms; the ruger 10/22 folks sort of rule the roost.

Myself, I have a long running thread where I shoot a sample group, make a change, note the cost, and compare the improvements in accuracy.

The “through pin” method Dale describes is an attempt to stabilize the receiver that is done when free-floating the barrel as the 10/22 is only mounted with one screw through the soft birch stock.

The latest trend is to install a tang L bracket to the back of the receiver, inlet the stock and epoxy bed the receiver. It’s going to be more stable and easy to get a repeatable solid mount than horizontal pins, but it’s just another way to do the same job.

However... if one is going to all that trouble, it’s better to simply buy an after market receiver with an integral tang machined in and an integrated scope rail.

Most all Rugers still ship with the stock trigger, only a few rare ones ship with the improved bx trigger (which is supposed to be darned near okay. One is in the mail to me right now.) Everyone agrees that any serious serious target 10/22 has a $200 Kidd 2 stage trigger. For about half that, there are several 1 stage triggers that people argue is comparable to the 1 stage Kidd trigger. The bx trigger is half of that, or $50.

Even throwing in an improved aftermarket bolt assembly, recoil spring, pins, decent barrel and custom stock... it’s a little cheaper to build your own fancy “ruger” with an $800 budget.

Some people have no interest in kitting together their own target rifle, word on the street seems to be generally positive about the Ruger Competition except that:
A. For that price you could kit something up a lot nicer or
B. For that price You could have a CZ bolt gun and scope that shoot rings around it

My own project is my attempt at finding the sweet spot in the price/performance curve.

Starting from a stock gun, better iron sights help my old eyes a little. A good scope is an immense improvement in reducing group size. Something like 4 inch to 2 inch groups at 50 yards.

Next, I free floated the barrel from the stock and barrel band. Then, after testing .22 ammo, I was able to get 1.125 inch groups.

But then I found a problem: loosening the receiver the retightening M.A.D. the groups string fairly horribly. I just did a very detailed inspection and found that the bedding of the receiver is hit-or-miss: there were some high spots allowing the receiver to rock and I assume the receiver/barrel interface to flex. I did a little improvement to the inletting and the result seems much more solid.

I am waiting for a bx trigger to arrive. I will attempt more accuracy tests with the new trigger and minor woodworking fix.

An aluminum bedding post is on order. I will bed the receiver soon. No tang hold down as it would interfere with the rear “cleaning hole” I drilled in the receiver. Ya drill a hole in the back of the receiver so every 1000 rounds or so you can clean with a rod from the breech without pulling off the barrel.

I am thinking that a careful bedding job will be nearly as good as a tang mounting screw and part of me is drawing the line where I feel it’s no longer a “10/22” but becomes a new design.

A long time ago, I built an ar-15 varmint rifle that was easily sub-moa at 100 yards. I am now appreciating the genius of the AR design features:

1. Barrel screws in such that free floating a barrel is simple stupid and the barrel to receiver interface is rock solid.

2. “Floppy” butt stock/buffer tube put practically no stress on the receiver. The receiver is practically free floating, too.

3. Pistol grip further sort of isolates the receiver from the shooters hand, about as much as can be.

Adding that one can handload .223 and can’t control the load of rimfire ammunition except by trial and error and hunt and peck... I can see how one can basically redesign the entire 10/22 platform except....

It was built to be an affordable knock around hunting rifle. I want to see what mine can do with a budget under $300.

With the bx trigger and scope, I am skirting $290 including all taxes and shipping costs.

My control rifle is a brand new cz 455 bolt action with .22 and .17 barrels I got for $510. So far, the 500$ cz has outshot the $200 ruger. But the little ruger is closing the gap.

[GarandTd]

With the BX trigger and scope, I am skirting $290 including all taxes and shipping costs.

You might have enough left to bolt on that waffle iron I keep reading about.

[jmr40]

I no longer have any interest in the standard models. I did replace the barrel and stock on one of mine with an 18" heavy target barrel and had a gunsmith work on the trigger. I'm very pleased with the results.

While I don't have any experience with the new version this is my current favorite 10-22. It has a 20" mid weight barrel with a target chamber and the new trigger. Mine is every bit as accurate as my CX 452. It is basically the target version but with a little lighter barrel for carrying around.

https://ruger.com/products/1022Sport...eets/1237.html

[pete2]

I have 4 10/22s, none are benchrest guns. #1 has a cheap Midway BBL, lam. stock, 100.00 Simmons scope, Volqartsen hammer and bolt release. It's very accurate, out shoots my buddies .22s, none of us are benchrest shooter.
#2 and #3 are fairly new standard carbines, used walnut carbine stocks, DIY trigger jobs@3-1/2#, DIY bolt releases, one with a Peep and the other with a TRS25 red dot. The idea for these 2 was to shoot the CMP Sporter match with them so both are legal for that match. Both are plenty accurate to clean the CMP target.
#4 is a Deluxe with a 2-7 VX-1 rimfire scope on it. I did shoot it with the stock trigger(5# but felt like 8) and it group at 25 yards was a ragged hole with CCI Standard. I installed a BX trigger group in it, it's just under 2-1/2# with some creep but a huge improvement over the stock trigger. I haven had a chance to shoot it since the trigger installation.
I think for benchrest I would build on a bolt gun of some kind, Anchutz maybe or if just tinkering a CZ.

[TruthTellers]

I shoot half inch groups at 50 yards with my pistol braced Ruger Charger and that setup (not including scope and rings) was about $350. I got a BX trigger on sale for about $50, but it's not a night and day difference, it's just lighter and has a better break.

You want pics? Here be the pics:



I wouldn't buy it.

[Scorch]

I can tell you that nothing Ruger has produced to date comes close to a really accurized 10/22. I build 10/22s and get 3/8" or better groups at 100 yds. Kidd and Volquartsen rifles shoot similarly well. You get what you pay for.

Accurizing Ruger 10/22s is as much art form as it is science. You can drill through pins and gain very little, the action is anchored at the back by a lip that fits on top of the trigger group and holds the rear of the action down in the stock. Glass bedding can help significantly, but if you do it wrong you will split the stock

You can torque the barrel block to specific torque settings and get a small improvement. Mounting the barrel securely is definitely key to good accuracy.

You can replace springs and polish the inside of the receiver and gain a little bit.

The big question is, what is "good enough" and what is "target accuracy". Real target accuracy is only attainable with a good barrel. Factory barrels are OK, good enough for taking the kids to the gravel quarry and letting them burn up a brick of 22s, but will never consistently shoot sub-MOA at 100 yds.

Factory triggers (even the BX trigger) are not consistent enough to get sub-MOA consistently. Factory trigger groups vary from bad to awful and will not break cleanly. BX triggers are better, but they are still a factory product and as such have much the same issue. Creepy, break at 4 lbs if you're lucky.

People are always looking for the "cheap and easy" solution, and if you want real target accuracy you have to do the right things. Just doing stuff willy-nilly won't get you there. Like any rifle, buy a good barrel and get good trigger components, bed the rifle properly and it will shoot amazingly well.

[10-96]

Within the past couple of days, I caught a thread where someone mentioned that Rugre has greatly improved the quality (consistency?) of their CF barrels. Does anyone know if they've added any additional attention to their RF barrels of late?

Also, I haven't seen anyone mention 10/22 barrel threading and receiver tapping as of yet on this thread. Is that still a thing folks do?

[Scorch]

Also, I haven't seen anyone mention 10/22 barrel threading and receiver tapping as of yet on this thread. Is that still a thing folks do?

Yes.

[Pahoo]

Certainly a bit overdue but one of the Competition's selling points, is the auto bolt release. Heck, we have been changing these out for years. You really do not have to buy a new one, just takes about 10-15 minutes to convert a stock release or OEM release. ....

Be Safe !!!