I'm a lanolin case lube convert! - Page 2

scatterbrain · January 31, 2021, 06:54 PM

When I became serious about reasons my SD's were not 0 I started measuring my brass, before, during and after the sizing process, a real eye opener! One operation that was changed was case lubrication. I now use the same Lano that a dairy used on teats to do the case body, a small dab will do. 3in1 oil is used of the case neck, just enough to show a shine, and that is all, no dents in the case. The measurements show this works. No need for spray bottoms, ratios, or hand cleaner, (my hands are always soft).

Shadow9mm · January 31, 2021, 08:15 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by scatterbrain

When I became serious about reasons my SD's were not 0 I started measuring my brass, before, during and after the sizing process, a real eye opener! One operation that was changed was case lubrication. I now use the same Lano that a dairy used on teats to do the case body, a small dab will do. 3in1 oil is used of the case neck, just enough to show a shine, and that is all, no dents in the case. The measurements show this works. No need for spray bottoms, ratios, or hand cleaner, (my hands are always soft).

If I were not resizing batches of 1000-3000 casings at a time, this would be a good option....

cdoc42 · February 1, 2021, 09:13 AM

Bugs, I agree with hounddawg; more likely ingredients other than Lanolin - maybe even the chemicals on your hands from the work you do interacted with others in those preparations. Orange pumice sounds good, but I also thought of an old timer called 20 Mule Team Borax which might still be around.

cdoc42 · February 1, 2021, 09:27 AM

zxcvbob, I want to be sure I understand your ratios. 9:1 is alcohol to castor oil, right?

Some time ago I made a mixture using 10% Lanolin "ointment", not liquid, in 91% Isopropyl alcohol. Lanolin is not soluble in water or alcohol but if shaken, it forms a cloudy solution that eventually separates again. I used it in a manual spray bottle. It worked really well on rifle cases, but it sat unused for too long and the lanolin stayed on the bottom in a mass that would no longer mix when shaken. So your Castor Oil suggestion sounds goodenough foe me to experiment again.

**Unclenick** · February 1, 2021, 10:13 AM

Odorless mineral spirits might do better with the lanolin. I haven't tried it. It would take longer to dry off than alcohol, but might be worth the wait. Patience solves a lot of problems.

dahermit · February 1, 2021, 10:35 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by BUGS BUNNY

Kind of off topic but I must post this, its true, was expensive & insanely painful.

About 30+ years ago I had my auto shop / salvage yard, I kept cans of Go-Jo & D/L and various hand cleaners around.

I started getting warts real bad, like 20-25 on each hand and they had grown large, slip with a wrench tearing one off and it bled nonstop, went and had them burnt off (PAIN) was intense on ride home, by the 3rd visit say 10 months from the first visit, the gal said listen, you are putting your hands into a chemical causing this - we discussed what I did and various chemicals, in the end it was the lanolin in the Go-Jo & D/L I stopped using them and now use a orange pumice hand cleaner no lanolin.

My younger son also started developing warts on his hands from the use of these products - he stopped and the warts went away.

Just a heads up, would hate to see anyone endure the misery I went through, 3 times like 40 - 50 warts each time very ugly.

Others may use D/L or Go-Jo daily / daily we just had issues with the lanolin, maybe wear gloves if you start getting tiny developments.

Chemicals do not cause warts. Warts are caused by a virus (see the attached link).

Hint: The virus causing common warts can be smothered by daily applications (takes about two weeks) of such things as mineral oil, petroleum jelly and a band aid (works with Plantar warts also). There is no need to have them burned off or surject removed.

I know this is not gun related, but want to save folks from needless pain and suffering.
https://www.webmd.com/skin-problems-...e-skin-warts#1

olduser · February 1, 2021, 10:40 AM

The Dillon case lube is exactly what you are trying to duplicate.

zxcvbob · February 1, 2021, 12:29 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by cdoc42

zxcvbob, I want to be sure I understand your ratios. 9:1 is alcohol to castor oil, right?

Some time ago I made a mixture using 10% Lanolin "ointment", not liquid, in 91% Isopropyl alcohol. Lanolin is not soluble in water or alcohol but if shaken, it forms a cloudy solution that eventually separates again. I used it in a manual spray bottle. It worked really well on rifle cases, but it sat unused for too long and the lanolin stayed on the bottom in a mass that would no longer mix when shaken. So your Castor Oil suggestion sounds goodenough foe me to experiment again.

10% castor oil by volume to 90% alcohol. I don't think it matters what kind of alcohol as long as it's dry. I used 91% rubbing alcohol. But I don't know if that's the right mixture or if it should have a little more oil; I didn't experiment with it much.

The castor oil is fully soluble in isopropyl alcohol, and presumably in ethanol or methanol. It doesn't separate. The 9% water didn't hurt anything. Castor oil is also easier to find than lanolin; the stuff you get at the drugstore or a soap-making supply.

cdoc42 · February 1, 2021, 04:56 PM

I was going to compare the viscosity of Liquid Lanolin to Castor Oil to see if that would offer a formulation plan. Unfortunately, this link

https://www.nowfoods.com/sites/defau...anolin-oil.pdf

reveals there is no physical and chemical property information, specifically for viscosity, for Lanolin.

An approach I might consider is an application of Castor oil by hand, then sequentially dilute it with alcohol until it appears to produce coated cases that do not easily submit to resizing.

But another thought is to contact Hornady and suggest that they reformulate their product into a non-pressurized spray bottle to avoid potential pulmonary hazards associated with the more widely distrubuted aerosol product now available.

John D · February 2, 2021, 08:47 AM

I've had a bottle of Dillon case lube for years. I don't lube every case; only every 3rd or 4th case. Then, after loading, I just wipe it off with a clean rag. Never had a problem.

Marco Califo · February 3, 2021, 05:33 PM

You can mix lanolin 1:1 with Brylcream and comb it through your hair.
I have been using White Lithium Grease as case lube for about 5 years. Only every third piece, and a light film of it only. It seems to greatly reduce stroke effort in rifle brass. It does need to be cleaned off after sizing.

**Unclenick** · February 3, 2021, 06:20 PM

Hmmm. Doesn't Brylcream look a lot like lithium grease?

Marco Califo · February 3, 2021, 06:38 PM

Now that you mention it, Yes, they do look alike!. A 1:1 mix of WLG and lanolin, as a sizing lube, might not smell as nice. Regardless, I do believe they would be equally hard to remove from brass.
Brylcream also uses the same Perfume as Coppertone products.
Brylcream ingredients are mostly mineral oil, a small amount of beeswax, and a few other things, that wont attack brass. It is more expensive than WLG.

cdoc42 · February 5, 2021, 12:47 AM

I experimented with Castor Oil and 91% Isopropyl alcohol tonight. 4-oz of Castor oil and 16 oz of the alcohol cost $6.

I started with 10 ml of oil and 10 ml of alcohol, stirred, and mixed well. Resized two .270 cases without a problem, using my fingers to apply the mixture. I kept adding 10ml of alcohol and resizing cases until I reached a total of 60 ml of the mixture. Once I hit 70ml I found resizing was a bit tough, and feared I might end up with a stuck case.

I have a 4-oz (120ml) pump spray bottle, so I used 20ml of Castor Oil and 100ml of 91% Isopropyl alcohol, which is equivalent to the 10-50 (60ml total) used above.
I used a RCBS pad, sprayed and rolled the several cases and everything went smoothly.

For those who wish to try it, but don't have the measuring tools, just put 4 teaspoonsful of Castor oil in a kitchen measuring cup and add the alcohol until you reach 4-oz.
That's a 16.67% mixture. You should be able to make 4-120ml mixtures for $6. You'll have Oil left for 2 more but you'll need to buy another bottle of alcohol.

jetinteriorguy · February 5, 2021, 08:40 AM

What, nobody uses Mink Oil anymore?

hounddawg · February 5, 2021, 11:26 PM

Quote:

What, nobody uses Mink Oil anymore?

bet if you had a analysis done you would find Imperial sizing wax and mink oil are awful similar. I played with the mink oil a few years back and it sure looks and feels a whole lot like Imperial. Lanolin/alcohol(heet) has me spoiled and I will never go back to anything that needs to be applied separately to each case.

USSR · February 6, 2021, 07:34 AM

Quote:

Lanolin/alcohol(heet) has me spoiled and I will never go back to anything that needs to be applied separately to each case.

Ditto, unless I am talking about just a handful of cases.

Don

JKP · March 17, 2021, 10:24 PM

I just made my first batch of lanoheat. I was using One Shot but the price went fron $12 for a large can to $35. I lube 9mm brass because wet tumbling gets the brass so clean my old elbow likes it better. It was so eazy I had to check the sizing die to make sure it was screwed in right. It smells much better than One Shot also.

cdoc42 · March 18, 2021, 10:05 PM

Go back to post 39. I have been using that Castor oil mixture since that post and I will never buy Hornady One Shot again, even though I never had a problem with it.

" just put 4 teaspoonsful of Castor oil in a kitchen measuring cup and add the alcohol until you reach 4-oz."

Use a manual 4-oz spray pump glass bottle.

Metal god · March 19, 2021, 12:23 AM

Quote:

" just put 4 teaspoonsful of Castor oil in a kitchen measuring cup and add the alcohol until you reach 4-oz."

What specific castor oil , do you have a link . I've been using the lanolin for a while and love it except I think it's just a tad harder to remove from the cases then I'd like . I do large batches of sizing . last month I did a 1300ct batch of LC- mixed cases and just finished a 700ct batch of LC-16 cases . I now have another 1400ct batch of once fired LC-17 cases I need to do .

I have enough lanolin and alcohol to last the rest of my reloading life . I am however willing to give something else a try .

Would this work
https://www.amazon.com/Castor-16oz-O...NsaWNrPXRydWU=

USSR · March 19, 2021, 07:20 AM

Quote:

I've been using the lanolin for a while and love it except I think it's just a tad harder to remove from the cases then I'd like .

Mg,

I toss them in the tumbler with a "dash" of mineral spirits and run them for 20 minutes. Works well.

Don

HiBC · March 19, 2021, 01:21 PM

If you search "bulk lanolin" on e-bay you will get results. (Beeswax,too,if you need some)

The spray lanolin lubes work well for me.

A relatively disgusting fact: Lanolin is sheeps sebum. Sebum is the stuff that builds up in a zit and squirts out when you squeeze it. So,if you have a teenage kid.....(just kidding!)

Castor oil?? I was a dirt biker long enough ago I used Castrol Castor Bean oil for my 2 stroke premix fuel in my Montessa. At that time, Husqvarna motorcycles warned your warranty was void if you used anything but bean oil.
Back then(late 60's,early 70's) as I recall I bought Castrol Castor bean oil at Jax Surplus for about $4.50 qt.
The bike seemed to run snappier on the stuff.

I have not used it for case lube,but toolmaking/moldmaking the lube I relied on for pressing in dowel pins was a bar of cocoa butter. Taught me by an Olde Guy. It might make a good liquid lube,dissolved in some carrier.
Last time I bought a bar at the drug store it was n the Baby-Momma section. Apparently nursing Mothers have use for it.

USSR · March 19, 2021, 06:38 PM

Quote:

Lanolin is sheeps sebum. Sebum is the stuff that builds up in a zit and squirts out when you squeeze it.

Thanks HiBC, I really didn't need to know that.

Don

Metal god · March 20, 2021, 02:10 AM

Quote:

I toss them in the tumbler with a "dash" of mineral spirits and run them for 20 minutes. Works well.

Isn't mineral spirits a petroleum based product , Wouldn't I need to clean that off as well ? I know I don't want to clean them twice . I would think acetone or lacquer thinner or the like would be better . They would just dissolve or evaporate leaving nothing behind ? Hell now that think about it , I could just use the alcohol I'm already using . Poor it off and save it for the next bottle of lube I make ???

The funny thing I've noticed is the lanolin seems to wipe off the case with a rag pretty easy . Only problem there is I don't feel like wiping off 1400 case one at a time haha .

jetinteriorguy · March 20, 2021, 07:01 AM

I just add cut up strips of used dryer sheets and odorless mineral spirits to the media in my tumbler and tumble for an hour to clean off the lanolin. It seems like the dryer sheets pretty much absorb the lube so the media stays fairly clean. I’ve thought about getting a gallon of lacquer thinner and just pouring it in a wide mouth jar, then dumping in the cases and agitating it to dissolve the lube off. Then pour it back in the can using a strainer/funnel combo and then just letting them dry off. Seems like it would work fast and easy with the right setup.

February 1, 2021, 10:13 AM	#30
Unclenick Staff Join Date: March 4, 2005 Location: Ohio Posts: 21,063	Odorless mineral spirits might do better with the lanolin. I haven't tried it. It would take longer to dry off than alcohol, but might be worth the wait. Patience solves a lot of problems. __________________ Gunsite Orange Hat Family Member CMP Certified GSM Master Instructor NRA Certified Rifle Instructor NRA Benefactor Member and Golden Eagle

February 3, 2021, 05:33 PM	#36
Marco Califo Senior Member Join Date: April 4, 2011 Location: LA (Greater Los Angeles Area) Posts: 2,598	You can mix lanolin 1:1 with Brylcream and comb it through your hair. I have been using White Lithium Grease as case lube for about 5 years. Only every third piece, and a light film of it only. It seems to greatly reduce stroke effort in rifle brass. It does need to be cleaned off after sizing. __________________ ............ Last edited by Marco Califo; February 3, 2021 at 06:39 PM.

February 3, 2021, 06:20 PM	#37
Unclenick Staff Join Date: March 4, 2005 Location: Ohio Posts: 21,063	Hmmm. Doesn't Brylcream look a lot like lithium grease? __________________ Gunsite Orange Hat Family Member CMP Certified GSM Master Instructor NRA Certified Rifle Instructor NRA Benefactor Member and Golden Eagle

February 3, 2021, 06:38 PM	#38
Marco Califo Senior Member Join Date: April 4, 2011 Location: LA (Greater Los Angeles Area) Posts: 2,598	Now that you mention it, Yes, they do look alike!. A 1:1 mix of WLG and lanolin, as a sizing lube, might not smell as nice. Regardless, I do believe they would be equally hard to remove from brass. Brylcream also uses the same Perfume as Coppertone products. Brylcream ingredients are mostly mineral oil, a small amount of beeswax, and a few other things, that wont attack brass. It is more expensive than WLG. __________________ ............ Last edited by Marco Califo; February 3, 2021 at 06:49 PM. Reason: Add

January 31, 2021, 06:54 PM	#26
scatterbrain Senior Member Join Date: February 7, 2015 Posts: 160	When I became serious about reasons my SD's were not 0 I started measuring my brass, before, during and after the sizing process, a real eye opener! One operation that was changed was case lubrication. I now use the same Lano that a dairy used on teats to do the case body, a small dab will do. 3in1 oil is used of the case neck, just enough to show a shine, and that is all, no dents in the case. The measurements show this works. No need for spray bottoms, ratios, or hand cleaner, (my hands are always soft).

February 1, 2021, 09:13 AM	#28
cdoc42 Senior Member Join Date: March 13, 2005 Location: Pennsylvania Posts: 1,687	Bugs, I agree with hounddawg; more likely ingredients other than Lanolin - maybe even the chemicals on your hands from the work you do interacted with others in those preparations. Orange pumice sounds good, but I also thought of an old timer called 20 Mule Team Borax which might still be around.

February 1, 2021, 09:27 AM	#29
cdoc42 Senior Member Join Date: March 13, 2005 Location: Pennsylvania Posts: 1,687	zxcvbob, I want to be sure I understand your ratios. 9:1 is alcohol to castor oil, right? Some time ago I made a mixture using 10% Lanolin "ointment", not liquid, in 91% Isopropyl alcohol. Lanolin is not soluble in water or alcohol but if shaken, it forms a cloudy solution that eventually separates again. I used it in a manual spray bottle. It worked really well on rifle cases, but it sat unused for too long and the lanolin stayed on the bottom in a mass that would no longer mix when shaken. So your Castor Oil suggestion sounds goodenough foe me to experiment again.

February 1, 2021, 10:40 AM	#32
olduser Senior Member Join Date: August 10, 2020 Posts: 100	The Dillon case lube is exactly what you are trying to duplicate.

February 1, 2021, 04:56 PM	#34
cdoc42 Senior Member Join Date: March 13, 2005 Location: Pennsylvania Posts: 1,687	I was going to compare the viscosity of Liquid Lanolin to Castor Oil to see if that would offer a formulation plan. Unfortunately, this link https://www.nowfoods.com/sites/defau...anolin-oil.pdf reveals there is no physical and chemical property information, specifically for viscosity, for Lanolin. An approach I might consider is an application of Castor oil by hand, then sequentially dilute it with alcohol until it appears to produce coated cases that do not easily submit to resizing. But another thought is to contact Hornady and suggest that they reformulate their product into a non-pressurized spray bottle to avoid potential pulmonary hazards associated with the more widely distrubuted aerosol product now available.

February 2, 2021, 08:47 AM	#35
John D Senior Member Join Date: October 24, 2000 Location: No. Arizona Posts: 436	I've had a bottle of Dillon case lube for years. I don't lube every case; only every 3rd or 4th case. Then, after loading, I just wipe it off with a clean rag. Never had a problem.

February 5, 2021, 12:47 AM	#39
cdoc42 Senior Member Join Date: March 13, 2005 Location: Pennsylvania Posts: 1,687	I experimented with Castor Oil and 91% Isopropyl alcohol tonight. 4-oz of Castor oil and 16 oz of the alcohol cost $6. I started with 10 ml of oil and 10 ml of alcohol, stirred, and mixed well. Resized two .270 cases without a problem, using my fingers to apply the mixture. I kept adding 10ml of alcohol and resizing cases until I reached a total of 60 ml of the mixture. Once I hit 70ml I found resizing was a bit tough, and feared I might end up with a stuck case. I have a 4-oz (120ml) pump spray bottle, so I used 20ml of Castor Oil and 100ml of 91% Isopropyl alcohol, which is equivalent to the 10-50 (60ml total) used above. I used a RCBS pad, sprayed and rolled the several cases and everything went smoothly. For those who wish to try it, but don't have the measuring tools, just put 4 teaspoonsful of Castor oil in a kitchen measuring cup and add the alcohol until you reach 4-oz. That's a 16.67% mixture. You should be able to make 4-120ml mixtures for $6. You'll have Oil left for 2 more but you'll need to buy another bottle of alcohol.

February 5, 2021, 08:40 AM	#40
jetinteriorguy Senior Member Join Date: April 28, 2013 Posts: 3,176	What, nobody uses Mink Oil anymore?

March 17, 2021, 10:24 PM	#43
JKP Member Join Date: May 3, 2010 Location: Colorado Springs Posts: 90	I just made my first batch of lanoheat. I was using One Shot but the price went fron $12 for a large can to $35. I lube 9mm brass because wet tumbling gets the brass so clean my old elbow likes it better. It was so eazy I had to check the sizing die to make sure it was screwed in right. It smells much better than One Shot also.

March 18, 2021, 10:05 PM	#44
cdoc42 Senior Member Join Date: March 13, 2005 Location: Pennsylvania Posts: 1,687	Go back to post 39. I have been using that Castor oil mixture since that post and I will never buy Hornady One Shot again, even though I never had a problem with it. " just put 4 teaspoonsful of Castor oil in a kitchen measuring cup and add the alcohol until you reach 4-oz." Use a manual 4-oz spray pump glass bottle.

March 19, 2021, 01:21 PM	#47
HiBC Senior Member Join Date: November 13, 2006 Posts: 8,286	If you search "bulk lanolin" on e-bay you will get results. (Beeswax,too,if you need some) The spray lanolin lubes work well for me. A relatively disgusting fact: Lanolin is sheeps sebum. Sebum is the stuff that builds up in a zit and squirts out when you squeeze it. So,if you have a teenage kid.....(just kidding!) Castor oil?? I was a dirt biker long enough ago I used Castrol Castor Bean oil for my 2 stroke premix fuel in my Montessa. At that time, Husqvarna motorcycles warned your warranty was void if you used anything but bean oil. Back then(late 60's,early 70's) as I recall I bought Castrol Castor bean oil at Jax Surplus for about $4.50 qt. The bike seemed to run snappier on the stuff. I have not used it for case lube,but toolmaking/moldmaking the lube I relied on for pressing in dowel pins was a bar of cocoa butter. Taught me by an Olde Guy. It might make a good liquid lube,dissolved in some carrier. Last time I bought a bar at the drug store it was n the Baby-Momma section. Apparently nursing Mothers have use for it.

March 20, 2021, 07:01 AM	#50
jetinteriorguy Senior Member Join Date: April 28, 2013 Posts: 3,176	I just add cut up strips of used dryer sheets and odorless mineral spirits to the media in my tumbler and tumble for an hour to clean off the lanolin. It seems like the dryer sheets pretty much absorb the lube so the media stays fairly clean. I’ve thought about getting a gallon of lacquer thinner and just pouring it in a wide mouth jar, then dumping in the cases and agitating it to dissolve the lube off. Then pour it back in the can using a strainer/funnel combo and then just letting them dry off. Seems like it would work fast and easy with the right setup.