Marine Spar Varnish on a gunstock?

MountainMan83 · November 12, 2017, 12:31 PM

Hello again everyone! I posted a question earlier as to what finish to use on a 1950’s/1960’s Fajen-Reinhardt Springfield 1903 sported stock. I used Tru-Oil on it before and it turned out great, but it was not the look or durability I was going for. This is going to be a hunting rifle during harsh winters and I would like a durable finish. At this point I’ve already sanded a good bit of the Tru-Oil off, I’m afraid to use a stripper as there are plastic inlays and other pieces of furniture that are plastic as well that could get melted or scarred. People suggested aerosol Tru-Oil, which is discontinued, and I tried it as well and all it did was orange peel after application. It was also recommended to use Helmsman spar urethane, which sounds promising. I was also considering marine spar varnish in gloss. What is you guys’ opinion on using marine spar varnish on a gunstock?

Pahoo · November 12, 2017, 12:46 PM

Quote:

I was also considering marine spar varnish in gloss. What is you guys’ opinion on using marine spar varnish on a gunstock?

I have used Spar Varnish, in the past and I'm glad to see that you are looking for weather resistant qualities. ......

As far as being superior to Tru-Oil, I "personally" do not see any advantage. Again, this is your personal call. My Tru-Oil finishes have held up in some fairly extreme weather conditions that the upper Midwest present. You might want to consider the Semi-Gloss. .....

Be Safe !!!

T. O'Heir · November 12, 2017, 01:06 PM

Spar varnish is used a lot on gun stocks. Isn't better or worse than Tru-oil. It's just different.
Read this.
https://www.thewoodwhisperer.com/art...gular-varnish/
Any oil finish will be far better than any brand of urethane though. Polyurethane is plastic. If you get a scratch on an oil finish, you make it go away with a bit more oil. Plastic requires a complete re-finish.

mete · November 12, 2017, 01:42 PM

Chemistry anyone ?
Tru-oil is a linseed oil based finish. When used it will oxydize and polymerize . Polymerize [form a polymer or plastic. ]
Modern finishes can be complex with a mixture of chemical types. If you want to repair, refinish, make sure the new stuff is compatible with the old .

FrankenMauser · November 12, 2017, 01:57 PM

The spar varnishes and urethanes that I've used (Helmsman being the most recent) have never given me the type of finish that I desired.
The Helmsman's urethane, in particular, was not easy to use in thin coats (on pine, poplar, and oak). Rather, it wanted to go on more like Danish Oil by flooding the part and then spreading the finish. A messy pain in the butt - especially on parts that are not flat. And way too much sanding was required between coats.

I would rather use MinWax Polycrylic than Helmsman's spar urethane. Although water-based for easy cleanup, and a polyurethane that's not the best option for chemical and water exposure... When properly applied, it is more durable and chemical resistant than standard oil-based polyurethane finishes. Brushes on easy. Sands nicely. Results in a nice luster (for which ever sheen you desire), and feels soft to the touch.

I'm more of a Tung Oil guy, myself.
But I think I'd rather use Polycrylic than even Tru-Oil. I don't like Tru-Oil, either...

Dufus · November 12, 2017, 02:58 PM

My experience with Tru Oil is when in the field in the rain, the finish turns a milky color. This was the Birchwood Casey Tru Oil.

I switched to the MINWAX Helmsman Spar Urethane years ago.

You have to apply by hand rubbing it on the wood. It turns into a very nice clear finish and is almost waterproof.

I have had one stock that was finished in this manner 12 years ago and it is still as handsome as the day I applied it.

I have never used a Marine finish. I re-decked a boat years ago, but it was fiber glassed over the wood, then carpeted with Marine grade carpet.

Here is the last one that I did 2 years ago. This was 8 coats. This was a truck gun that was well beaten. The nephew let me have it for a work over for his birthday gift.

Scorch · November 13, 2017, 02:39 AM

TruOil looks good and seals well, and can be touched up easily if scratched or scuffed. High gloss with TruOil is pretty glossy, but not the best.

If your TruOil finish turns milky in the rain, you haven't sealed the wood.

Spar varnish looks like hammered crap on wood, will not show wood grain well, and smells terrible no matter what you do to it.

Old guitars had nitrocellulose finish on them. Tough and shiny, but lots of solvent and lots of coats to get that look.

The highest gloss finishes for wood are marine clear gels or automotive finishes. Neither show the real character of the wood very well, but either will be as tough as nails. Remember the old Remington 700 "bowling pin" finish? DuPont Imron auto paint.

Dufus · November 13, 2017, 11:46 AM

Quote:

Spar varnish looks like hammered crap on wood, will not show wood grain well, and smells terrible no matter what you do to it.

I agree that spar varnish is not for gun stocks. Or much else, IMO.

Quote:

Remember the old Remington 700 "bowling pin" finish? DuPont Imron auto paint.

I had one of those too. Butt ugly and cheap looking with the pressed checkering. Sold it not too long after I bought it at a going out of business sale.

OzeanJaeger · November 13, 2017, 12:01 PM

Behlen, Nitrocellulose Stringed Instrument Lacquer

You don't need to thin it. It's already super thin like household oil. Light sanding with 1200 grit between coats, and it is going to take at least ten coats before it even starts to get that mirror finish you're looking for. You will most likely need around 20 coats, and I've seen the guys getting paid big bucks to refinish a stock go as many as 40! At 40 you could clearly see your reflection in the flat of the stock like an actual mirror. If you want something that looks like a master craftsman made it, there is no way around technique, lots of time, and a lot of elbow grease. If you're just looking for weather resistant this is NOT the way to go.

Don Fischer · November 14, 2017, 10:57 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Dufus

My experience with Tru Oil is when in the field in the rain, the finish turns a milky color. This was the Birchwood Casey Tru Oil.

I switched to the MINWAX Helmsman Spar Urethane years ago.

You have to apply by hand rubbing it on the wood. It turns into a very nice clear finish and is almost waterproof.

I have had one stock that was finished in this manner 12 years ago and it is still as handsome as the day I applied it.

I have never used a Marine finish. I re-decked a boat years ago, but it was fiber glassed over the wood, then carpeted with Marine grade carpet.

Here is the last one that I did 2 years ago. This was 8 coats. This was a truck gun that was well beaten. The nephew let me have it for a work over for his birthday gift.

Those 788's really clean up nice!

November 12, 2017, 12:31 PM	#1
MountainMan83 Member Join Date: November 10, 2017 Posts: 31	Marine Spar Varnish on a gunstock? Hello again everyone! I posted a question earlier as to what finish to use on a 1950’s/1960’s Fajen-Reinhardt Springfield 1903 sported stock. I used Tru-Oil on it before and it turned out great, but it was not the look or durability I was going for. This is going to be a hunting rifle during harsh winters and I would like a durable finish. At this point I’ve already sanded a good bit of the Tru-Oil off, I’m afraid to use a stripper as there are plastic inlays and other pieces of furniture that are plastic as well that could get melted or scarred. People suggested aerosol Tru-Oil, which is discontinued, and I tried it as well and all it did was orange peel after application. It was also recommended to use Helmsman spar urethane, which sounds promising. I was also considering marine spar varnish in gloss. What is you guys’ opinion on using marine spar varnish on a gunstock?

November 12, 2017, 01:06 PM	#3
T. O'Heir Senior Member Join Date: February 13, 2002 Location: Canada Posts: 12,453	Spar varnish is used a lot on gun stocks. Isn't better or worse than Tru-oil. It's just different. Read this. https://www.thewoodwhisperer.com/art...gular-varnish/ Any oil finish will be far better than any brand of urethane though. Polyurethane is plastic. If you get a scratch on an oil finish, you make it go away with a bit more oil. Plastic requires a complete re-finish. __________________ Spelling and grammar count!

November 12, 2017, 01:42 PM	#4
mete Senior Member Join Date: June 14, 2004 Location: NY State Posts: 6,575	Chemistry anyone ? Tru-oil is a linseed oil based finish. When used it will oxydize and polymerize . Polymerize [form a polymer or plastic. ] Modern finishes can be complex with a mixture of chemical types. If you want to repair, refinish, make sure the new stuff is compatible with the old . __________________ And Watson , bring your revolver !

November 12, 2017, 01:57 PM	#5
FrankenMauser Senior Member Join Date: August 25, 2008 Location: In the valley above the plain Posts: 13,424	The spar varnishes and urethanes that I've used (Helmsman being the most recent) have never given me the type of finish that I desired. The Helmsman's urethane, in particular, was not easy to use in thin coats (on pine, poplar, and oak). Rather, it wanted to go on more like Danish Oil by flooding the part and then spreading the finish. A messy pain in the butt - especially on parts that are not flat. And way too much sanding was required between coats. I would rather use MinWax Polycrylic than Helmsman's spar urethane. Although water-based for easy cleanup, and a polyurethane that's not the best option for chemical and water exposure... When properly applied, it is more durable and chemical resistant than standard oil-based polyurethane finishes. Brushes on easy. Sands nicely. Results in a nice luster (for which ever sheen you desire), and feels soft to the touch. I'm more of a Tung Oil guy, myself. But I think I'd rather use Polycrylic than even Tru-Oil. I don't like Tru-Oil, either... __________________ Don't even try it. It's even worse than the internet would lead you to believe.

November 12, 2017, 02:58 PM	#6
Dufus Senior Member Join Date: December 10, 2014 Posts: 1,965	My experience with Tru Oil is when in the field in the rain, the finish turns a milky color. This was the Birchwood Casey Tru Oil. I switched to the MINWAX Helmsman Spar Urethane years ago. You have to apply by hand rubbing it on the wood. It turns into a very nice clear finish and is almost waterproof. I have had one stock that was finished in this manner 12 years ago and it is still as handsome as the day I applied it. I have never used a Marine finish. I re-decked a boat years ago, but it was fiber glassed over the wood, then carpeted with Marine grade carpet. Here is the last one that I did 2 years ago. This was 8 coats. This was a truck gun that was well beaten. The nephew let me have it for a work over for his birthday gift. Last edited by Dufus; November 12, 2017 at 03:14 PM.

November 13, 2017, 02:39 AM	#7
Scorch Senior Member Join Date: February 13, 2006 Location: Washington state Posts: 15,248	TruOil looks good and seals well, and can be touched up easily if scratched or scuffed. High gloss with TruOil is pretty glossy, but not the best. If your TruOil finish turns milky in the rain, you haven't sealed the wood. Spar varnish looks like hammered crap on wood, will not show wood grain well, and smells terrible no matter what you do to it. Old guitars had nitrocellulose finish on them. Tough and shiny, but lots of solvent and lots of coats to get that look. The highest gloss finishes for wood are marine clear gels or automotive finishes. Neither show the real character of the wood very well, but either will be as tough as nails. Remember the old Remington 700 "bowling pin" finish? DuPont Imron auto paint. __________________ Never try to educate someone who resists knowledge at all costs. But what do I know? Summit Arms Services

November 13, 2017, 12:01 PM	#9
OzeanJaeger Senior Member Join Date: September 8, 2014 Posts: 301	Behlen, Nitrocellulose Stringed Instrument Lacquer You don't need to thin it. It's already super thin like household oil. Light sanding with 1200 grit between coats, and it is going to take at least ten coats before it even starts to get that mirror finish you're looking for. You will most likely need around 20 coats, and I've seen the guys getting paid big bucks to refinish a stock go as many as 40! At 40 you could clearly see your reflection in the flat of the stock like an actual mirror. If you want something that looks like a master craftsman made it, there is no way around technique, lots of time, and a lot of elbow grease. If you're just looking for weather resistant this is NOT the way to go.