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Old April 14, 2018, 11:02 AM   #51
riffraff
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Thanks again - will take a look at those!

The UTG model does have 3 inches of eye relief - don't need it on this rifle though but was not short on that. With the .308 I put the optic such that it was about inline w/ the closed charging handle - more of a safety feature for recoil, ie so my face was at that minimum distance away from anything protruding from the rifle. I think on a 5.56 it really doesn't matter, no recoil to consider really just general comfort.

Next week they should have those other model uppers popping into stock - they have a bunch in stock just missing a couple models, probably just haven't assembled them yet. Really like the idea of the Atlas but I think I'm going to go with one of the Quantum's instead:

Something that hit me as potentially being a big bummer with the Atlas guard, as nice as they look and feel I'm sure, it's a very slim rail with absolutely no holes on top for venting (or for mounting anything but that's not my issue). To me looks like if you wanted to make handguard that's gonna get hot and stay hot that's the one right there, close as you can get it to the barrel and no venting where the heat is trying to escape.
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Old April 14, 2018, 02:15 PM   #52
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Actually, it appears to me that the Atlas has better overall ventilation than the quantum and that the strip of metal on top that has no holes on the Atlas is pretty thin and likely won't trap hardly any heat. I didn't see a picture of the top of the quantum so i can't tell if it does or doesn't have holes on top. Also, if you consider the traditional plastic AR type handguards, they only have vent holes on the top and bottom (nothing at all on the sides) and must surely trap more heat than the Atlas and that doesn't seem to be much of an issue unless your really burning up your barrel. I think even with the Atlas being slim and closer to the barrel you wouldn't have any issues with it getting uncomfortably hot. The quantum is cheaper though and still looks good. I'd just go with which ever one you think you'll like the look and feel of best And i guess difference in weight could be a consideration as well.
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Old April 14, 2018, 10:19 PM   #53
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Thanks again!

You have to actually act like you are buying it to see what they look like up close. Quantum has mloc slots at 12:00.

<edit> tried to attach pictures but they show up microscopic, no joy.
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File Type: jpg atlas.jpg (1.9 KB, 3 views)
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Old April 15, 2018, 12:30 AM   #54
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Quote:
You have to actually act like you are buying it to see what they look like up close. Quantum has mloc slots at 12:00.
Thanks! Good to know!

And you are very welcome

I'm enjoying helping you shop Also, now I'm considering the idea of an Aero Precision upper for myself one of these days, so I've obviously been enjoying myself.
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Old April 15, 2018, 12:41 PM   #55
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Anderson SKU B2-K611-AF01 or SKU B2-K611-AH00 they are very good uppers Good Luck
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Old April 15, 2018, 01:22 PM   #56
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Thanks on the anderson, had a hard time finding their models when i looked before but will punch in the # and see that helps to have.

Mellow, one thing i noticed with aero and psa is you see people asking/comparing about PSA versus aero, and also aero versus more expensive brands like spikes, but not so much psa versus spikes for instance. At least interrpretation wise and cost wise aero seems to be that in between (but in budget) option for me. Wont ever really know unless its amazingly accurate or a complete POS if the extra $150 really bought anything though.
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Old April 16, 2018, 09:39 PM   #57
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Yeah, it can be difficult to discern who really has the best products for the money. It's not as if anyone is out there advertising every step of the production process from raw materials all the way to the finished product, and why their product is any better than anyone else's (like extra steps to ensure quality , consistency, and whatever else). We are often times left with just a list of specifications and brand reputation to go on... Which isn't much considering a lot of brands are selling products with the same specs but at different prices. Some companies are using the exact same parts to assemble these uppers and lowers as other companies, but their pricing is different just because of the final branding or inconsequential cosmetics.

I guess that's just where it leaves us, hoping for the best and counting on reviews and reputation as much as anything... However, brand pricing and reputation can also contribute to resale value and cool factor if that is of any importance to you.

I think all things considered, spending your money on an Aero upper is going to be a safe bet.

Last edited by mellow_c; April 17, 2018 at 12:08 AM.
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Old April 16, 2018, 10:28 PM   #58
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Mello - ya that's provided Aero ever has them in stock again.

Since I started this thread and somebody suggested Aero, stock on the 16 inch models has been real spotty at best, one model pops in for a day or two then out of stock again. Be nice if you can backorder but no such option.

Didn't have either one of the two I was about ready to order in stock but had a few other models, however no BCG's at all. At the moment they have no 16 inch models in 5.56 at all, not sure about BCG's.

If tomorrow or the next day what I want pops in will order it without the BCG and pick one up later, or will pull a BCG out of this never-shot upper and have it checked for fit.

PSA on the other hand though has a complete mid length nitride upper w/ BCG/CH sitting there for $370 in stock - tempting but gonna wait it out a bit longer.

Definitely could've used something with an optic over the weekend - was really great, had the whole place to myself a couple hours both sat and sunday, shooting off the open door/window of my truck - nothing to write home about but felt my group was about as accurate as my estimation of the center of the target at the range I was.
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Old April 17, 2018, 12:38 AM   #59
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Sounds like fun shooting from the open door and window!

I'm not sure how much experience you have with scoped rifles (I know you have some), so just incase, i wanted to mention a few things.

Take your time on the installation. Reeeeeally feel it out to make sure you have your scope set the proper distance away from your eye based on where you like the stock set and what magnification you plan to use the most, as eye relief changes depending on if you are at minimum or maximum zoom.

Do your best to level the scope. Find a place in your home where you can set the upper on a solid yet easily adjustable Surface. Something as simple as a large upside down trash can. Then find some sort of accurate and very small bubble level that you can set on the upper receiver while installing the scope and base. Make sure the upper is perfectly level (use magazines or other thin things to put under one side or the other of whatever you have the upper sitting on to adjust the level) then at the other end of the room/hall or whatever, have an easily visible string hanging with a bit of a weight at the end. Wait for it to stop swinging completely, make sure there aren't any air vents blowing on it. Then line up the upper and scope with the string (keeping the upper level and making adjustments as needed).
Keep the scope where you want it for eye relief, a bit of tape can help you mark the right spot so if it slides back and forth you can always get it back to where you want it. And then twist the scope in the loosely and evenly tightened rings until the cross hairs of the reticle are in perfect vertical alignment with the string. Eventually start evenly tightening the rings, all while checking to see that the upper remains level and the reticle remains level with the string until you have reached the proper torque.

Finding a good, small, accurate bubble level that actually works for this took a bit of searching on my end. There are cheap little plastic ones that are like just the little vile or cylinder holding the liquid, and in theory they would be about perfect, but i found them to be inconsistent and uneven in their reading depending on which side it was resting on or whatever. If you want or need something like that just let me know and i can look up exactly what i ended up with, and I'm very happy with it.

It's a process for sure, but the end result is a perfectly level scope set just right for you.

I used to just eyeball alignment when installing scopes only to notice later i didn't do as well as i thought i did.

Then of course, take your time sighting in. Make sure to be consistent with each trigger pull, don't flinch, use good bags or a sturdy rest, and just do everything you possibly can to take out any kind of human error from the equation.

Once your done, you'll know what kind of groups your rifle and ammo are really capable of, and then going forward you can have confidence that the set up is solid and dialed in, with an idea of what it is really capable of. Then you can just enjoy shooting it knowing that if you do your part, you ARE going to hit what your aiming at.

A lot of people don't take the time to set up the rifle and scope properly, and then they rush the process of sighting it in, and then they ultimately wonder why they can't shoot better than softball sized groups at 100 yards with their nice expensive gear.

I mean really, it doesn't have to be perfect, but if your striving for accuracy, every little bit helps. Some people just pay someone else to mount the scope for them, which is usually fine and often times might be their best option. But i prefer to take the time to do it myself so that i KNOW it was done right.

If you already knew this stuff, that's great, but i just wanted to mention some of it just in case so you can be sure to get your maximum amount of enjoyment out of this upper once it all comes together.

And hang in there. I'm sure what your looking for will be back in stock eventually, just keep checking and as soon as you see it is back in stock, jump on it. I've seen stuff i was waiting to buy show up back in stock that morning and then by the time i went to order mine in the afternoon it was already sold out!

Last edited by mellow_c; April 17, 2018 at 12:48 AM.
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Old April 18, 2018, 12:06 AM   #60
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Ya it's great having a place to shoot period - even better where you can drive a truck in and shoot right off it. Just gotta remember to keep the vehicle on your left side - especially if using an open door unless you want a cab full of warm shells.

Unfortunate part is since I can drive my truck in so can everyone else. Isn't bad if you got others with rifles, easy to share, but sometimes (like the guy I pulled up on the other day who was wearing full tactical gear shooting 10 yards from the 200 yard backstop) all it takes is one goon with a pistol to change your plans.

I'm not real experienced, been playing with guns since before I could drive, for 25 years but with varying levels of activity to the point where I've gone a year without touching one. Enjoying getting back into it. So put me in the category of not well setting up a scope and I'll use that advice, thank you very much!
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Old April 18, 2018, 03:39 PM   #61
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Here is a link to the level i use.

http://www.ctkprecision.com/all-purpose-gun-level.aspx

You have to make sure you use it on the upper receiver, not the handguard as the handguard may not be in perfect alignment with the upper receiver. The upper receiver is what you need to keep level while adjusting your scope to bring the croshairs of the scope in to perfect alignment with the string that is hanging and which is already perfectly level due to gravity. And if you use this one, take your time with it, make sure you keep it flat, because since it is kind of long, and can have tension on it if you use the elastic band, it can be easy for it to lean one way or the other. The tool is good though because it is perfectly flat and true and it is also thin so it can fit well under and behind or in front of a scope where there might not be much rail space left to rest it on because of the scope mount taking up a lot of the surface area.

When setting eye relief, you want to be in a natural shooting position, not stretching your neck out towards the scope or anything like that.
If you put your eye too close to the scope you will see the image through the scope but there will also be a black ring or dead zone that you see surounding the image. You don't want to be seeing that. But as you pull your eye away from the scope that black ring will shrink so that all you see is the image through the scope, and if you keep getting further away you will start to see less and less of the edges of the image shrinking your field of view. So the key is to set the scope at a distance where you don't see the black ring, but you do see the full image when you are in a natural position on the rifle with the stock adjusted to your prefered length and also at the magnification setting that you plan to use most.

I think a lot of people set up their scopes for proper eye relief at max zoom. I set mine for proper eye relief at minimum zoom and then if i use maximum zoom i adjust my position on the rifle or the rifle its self to give me proper eye relief, because i figure if I'm using max zoom i will be taking a bit of extra time to make the shot, and in theory, i could use that time to make adjustments to the position of my body or the rifle to acquire proper eye relief.
Others might argue that you should have it the other way around so you are in a more natural position when at max zoom so you are more relaxed and able to make an accurate shot. But i feel like i would prefer to have the full field of view in my natural shooting position to be at minimum zoom to aid in quicker target acquisition for closer or moving targets when in a standing or unsupported position.
Also, by increasing zoom, eye relief is reduced requiring your eye to be closer to the scope, and i feel like it is easier to lean in to the scope for a long shot than it is to lean away from the scope for a close shot. Also, your head tends to be more forward on the rifle when sitting at a bench or in a prone position which is when you would probably be using more magnification, and your head is further back or more upright when standing and holding a rifle so that your eye is likely further away from the scope when you would be more likely to have it on a minimum magnification setting for unsupported or close range shots.

All that is why i like to set my scopes for proper eye relief at minimum zoom with myself in a natural "fighting stance" standing position.

Hope that helps

Last edited by mellow_c; April 18, 2018 at 04:16 PM.
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Old April 19, 2018, 12:37 AM   #62
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Thanks again! - just missed an available upper tonight, like you said - got a notification while I had my hands full at work, got home in a position to order and out of stock again..

Looks like they are regularly putting them together though - BCG's are back in stock at the moment as well, shouldn't be long but I thought for sure I'd have one on the way tonight.
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Old April 19, 2018, 01:55 AM   #63
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Awww man. Sorry to hear that! You'll get one soon enough I'm sure.

Just wondering, what type of bcg you are looking at?
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Old April 19, 2018, 03:40 PM   #64
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Went with the mid length quantum mlok with the solid rail, in a 16 in barrel, 12 inch gaurd, standard charger, nitride bcg..

Thinking like this: Aero lineup weight wise, regular quantum couple ounces heavier then the gen2 version with the solid rail, which is a couple ounces heavier than atlas...

So actually that solid rail costs 50 bucks but looses weight over the non rail version..

The slim atlas i like but has no slots or rail top/center, so no way to put anything there if i ever want to plus just strikes me as a hotter handle versus the gen2 which has equal holes all around plus has them on top (atlas no holes on top) plus is larger and further off barrel.
You pay about 2 ounces for it..

And given my shooting position never is gonna be hand way out toward the muzzle i cant find a good justification for putting more material down there so went 12 inch verses 15.

Went nitride on the bcg, both from research - should slide a bit easier, and thats all they got in stock anyway and just for consistency nice to have all same brand.
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Old April 19, 2018, 05:02 PM   #65
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All right! Awesome!

Really happy to know what you ended up ordering!

I like your thought process and think you made a great choice! It should do everything you want it too and it should look great too.

I'd have also gone with the nitride bcg. Nothing wrong with phosphate and according to some people phosphate is prefered for one reason or another. But I've never had a problem with a nitride bcg and they really are soooo much easier to clean, no rough sandpaper like surface pulling fibers off rags, paper towels and q-tips!

(to clarify, another member on the forum prefers phosphate only because the rougher surface is what the gun was originally designed to run and he said that he had timing issues with slick bcgs like nickel or nitride surfaces. He said they would unlock early and thought that the lack of resistance from the slicker surfaces was likely the cause of the problem. I don't doubt him, but at the same time, i haven't noticed any similar issues in my own experience *not that I've been looking for them* and also, everyone seems to use nitride and nickel plated bcgs these days, so i think you are probably safe. Also, you have a mid length gas system so unlocking early is less likely than it would be if you had a carbine gas system.)

Anyway, I'm glad your feeling good about your purchase! I'm excited to hear what you choose for an optic in the long run and how it all does for you once you've taken it to the range. And feel free to post some pics if you would like ;-)

After all this I'm really considering a similar set up.

Although i might do things a bit differently.

Thinking about the M4E1 upper in FDE with a 12" Atlas S-1 handguard also in FDE (or whatever is shorter than the 15"? I would like a 13" but not sure if they have those)

Then i would go with a 16" .223 wylde 416r stainless barrel that is fluted (saves 5 ounces) and bead blasted.

Then probably some sort of nice low to medium range variable optic to try to utilize the barrels potential accuracy but still take advantage of its compact length and lighter weight for closer shooting.

I think it would make for a great "fun at any range" outdoor type set up. But we'll see. That all takes time and money!

Regardless, thanks for the inspiration

Looking forward to hearing how yours all comes together for you.

Last edited by mellow_c; April 19, 2018 at 05:09 PM.
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Old April 19, 2018, 05:34 PM   #66
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Will see on the bcg but worst scenerio got a phosphate one here thats never seen a round.

One thing to mention if you go this route. Atlas model from 12 to 15 inch is 1 ounce, not adding much. But they dont have anything in between.

I bet shipping is real slow, but paid the 18 bucks for ups versus free so maybe see it next week.

I bought one of those utg scopes for 52 bucks couple days ago on ebay. May be crap may be great for me dunno but 50 bucks couldnt pass it up. Worst scenerio im out 50 bucks and it gets demoted all the way down to air rifle duty.
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Old April 19, 2018, 06:49 PM   #67
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Wow. For $50 who could blame you. It should be enough to get you started and might help to give you a feel for what you do and don't want from a scope assuming you decide to upgrade later.

Only one ounce difference between the 12" and 15" Atlas!? Well then, that's hardly anything. If i get serious about it I'll have to sit down at the computer and really read all the specs to see about what exactly i want. I actually like the look of the 12" because i think the bead blasted SS barrel looks nice and is just a cool looking combination, but having it covered by the extra 3" would provide more of a complete camo appearance to the rifle, and also give longer sight radius if using back up irons and more room to grip the rifle further out if i wanted. For only 1 extra ounce, that's a pretty good compromise. I guess I'll really have to think it through.

The 5 ounce weight savings from the fluted SS barrel over the non-fluted was impressive to me. You can really feel 5 ounces! A deck of playing cards is said to weigh about 3.5 ounces, so loosing 5 from the front of the rifle from a fluted barrel with increased surface area to aid in cooling sounds great!

The problem is, its easy to add all that weight back by mounting back up iron sights, and using a heavier scope and mount. If I end up trying to put something like this together it's going to require a lot of thought. Maybe id be better off forgetting the whole thing, saving my money, and living out my new found aero precision dreams vicariously through folks like you!
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Old April 20, 2018, 01:57 PM   #68
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mellow_c View Post
Wow. For $50 who could blame you. It should be enough to get you started and might help to give you a feel for what you do and don't want from a scope assuming you decide to upgrade later.

Only one ounce difference between the 12" and 15" Atlas!? Well then, that's hardly anything. If i get serious about it I'll have to sit down at the computer and really read all the specs to see about what exactly i want. I actually like the look of the 12" because i think the bead blasted SS barrel looks nice and is just a cool looking combination, but having it covered by the extra 3" would provide more of a complete camo appearance to the rifle, and also give longer sight radius if using back up irons and more room to grip the rifle further out if i wanted. For only 1 extra ounce, that's a pretty good compromise. I guess I'll really have to think it through.

The 5 ounce weight savings from the fluted SS barrel over the non-fluted was impressive to me. You can really feel 5 ounces! A deck of playing cards is said to weigh about 3.5 ounces, so loosing 5 from the front of the rifle from a fluted barrel with increased surface area to aid in cooling sounds great!

The problem is, its easy to add all that weight back by mounting back up iron sights, and using a heavier scope and mount. If I end up trying to put something like this together it's going to require a lot of thought. Maybe id be better off forgetting the whole thing, saving my money, and living out my new found aero precision dreams vicariously through folks like you!
Or at least wait until they go on sale before you buy anything .
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Old April 21, 2018, 02:01 PM   #69
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That's some sound advice.

And i like the sound of it.



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Old May 1, 2018, 12:38 AM   #70
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Well so far so good.

Aero upper showed up in very nice order as far as I can tell - very perfectly put together - took me quite a bit to even find the seam between the receiver & guard.

12 inch guard is absolutely as long as I'd go for w/ this length barrel for sure, very reasonably light..

BCG looks jewelry quality - a little too pretty.

Dropped right onto my Ruger 556, tight and no play, action seems perfect.

As an afterthought as I've been learning things I ordered an H2 buffer, may throw that it in there as I initially test things out and see how it runs.
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Old May 1, 2018, 04:07 AM   #71
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Sounds good!

I'm assuming your Ruger lower just has a typical carbine weight buffer. I personally would run an H or H2 buffer in a carbine length gas system with 16" barrel. For a 16" barrel with midlength gas system id probably run a carbine or H buffer.

That's just my thought though based on some experience and also what I've read online. An H2 might work wonderfully though.

Please let us know how it shoots
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Old May 3, 2018, 09:09 PM   #72
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Should be testing it out on Sunday. May have gotten a little out of control with options on the buffer and spring stuff.. Figured what the hell if I'm going to now be messing around with these things sooner or later having a couple extra buffer weights will pay off. And who knows what Ruger uses for the spring - may as well have some options there .. Oh and probably good to verify headspace while I'm at it ..

Soooo got a few carbine springs - standard stoner, JP polished/tuned, and wolf heavy springs. H & H2 buffers. And a set of go/no-go gauges.
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Old May 5, 2018, 03:26 AM   #73
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You sound pretty set to me! Always nice to have extra parts on hand even if you don't use them... And if they sit around long enough you can just use them as an excuse to put together another rifle or two.

Good to have the gauges. I've checked the head space on a few brand new bolt and barrel combinations only to find that the bolt would close on the NO GO gauge. After that I checked with the Field gauge and one of them even closed on that! ( Not safe to fire) And again, this was with a brand new bolt and barrel. It's not common, but bolts and barrels don't always match up well, so in my opinion, it is worth checking.
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Old May 7, 2018, 07:58 AM   #74
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https://gun.deals/category/gun-parts
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Old May 7, 2018, 11:58 AM   #75
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Got it out and shot it a bunch yesterday - so far so good! Accuracy no idea yet, just got it sighted in for the first time, groups seemed reasonable given the situation - skill level low, periodic rain, M855 ammo, and everything being new. Actually on about the 2nd mag I ran through it, ~80 yards or so, was surprised to see a textbook < 5 inch group so quickly and so on target.

It ran without a hiccup, more than 300 rounds and FT-nothing, period, perfect. Mostly in M855 but also ran a couple mags of M193.

It does however seem to have more recoil than other rifles. I started with the spring the Ruger 556 came with and an H buffer, conditions were too crappy to be messing around so I just checked to make sure everything looked happy inside after a few mags then just ran it. Other thing I notice is I detect a distinct twang from the spring. Maybe try an H2 and the tuned spring?

Also first experience with this Ruger lower - trigger is *incredibly* heavy, nothing odd about it other than that but holy crap is it heavy. If I'm going to leave this setup like this for long gotta get something that does not require so much force. Was poking around last night looking at triggers - mind boggling - any recommendations? Was looking in the $60 to $150 range, a Rainer model, Ruger elite, Stoner enhanced..

Scope no complaints yet - size is a winner - nice fit on an AR 15, great eye relief, the illumination is extremely bright if you turn it up - ridiculous, and red or green I don't care, but works just fine on a low setting. Seemed clear enough, no issue yet uncovered even while contending with rain. Had it on 6X at that distance. Held settings OK so far - one weird thing was I swear I had to make way more adjustment than you'd expect to move my groups left a few inches (ie lots of re-attempts) but eventually they got there even though for a bit it seemed like my adjustments were "ignored" ..

Ordered some better 75 grain ammo to take my time with next round.
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