Any .300 Weatherby Magnum Reloaders

BntBrl · June 9, 2008, 01:03 AM

Im getting into reloading to reload for my Weatherby .300 mag. I like it a lot, but its getting expensive. So Ive decided to try reloading. I only go through about 40 rounds a week but at that rate its several hundred dollars a month. I cant see paying that if I can reload the cases a few times.

Ive seen a collet press that resizes the area in the casing just above the banding in addition to the rest of the case needing resizing.

Anyone else here reload the weatherby 300 mag?

Ranger61 · June 9, 2008, 08:28 AM

I reload 300 weatherby. I have never needed to use a die that resizes the area just above the belt. I have a Redding full length sizing die that I adjust to do the minimum resize necessary to make the case fit into the chamber, then reload normally. Bolt action guns usually have plenty to cam action even if the case is a touch tight. Usually the case gets rejected because the primer pockets get loose not because of bulging above the belt.

Shoney · June 9, 2008, 12:03 PM

I have helped a few acquaintances work up 300 Weatherby loads. I use a standard 2 die set from Hornady. If loading cases for the weapon they were fired in, I usually size to just a fraction above the shoulder and check for fit in the chamber. For base lines, we used Weatherby factory ammo over the chrono. Factory 180gr were 3200fps and 200gr were slightly above 3000f[s

Accuracy loads for 180gr using IMR4831were at or very slightly above max; but the velocities were well below factory by 250-350fps; while H1000 did much better in velocity with 200-250fps below factory. With 200gr Nosler Partition, Retumbo came closest to factory loads (around 50fps slower), while IMR4831 gave the most accurate loads, but 150fps below factory.

eastbank · June 9, 2008, 05:02 PM

83grs h-4831,165 nosler ballistic tip, 26 inche barrel 3200fps. mark 5 ss weatherby. 2.5 inch groups at 300yds with 6.6x20 leupold. no trouble with FL RCBS dies. eastbank.

BntBrl · June 10, 2008, 01:02 AM

My rifle likes the 180 grain Weatherby brand factory ammo. THe 160 grain not so much seems like.

Please forgive my ignorance, but why is the factory loads faster than the reloads? THe same powder isnt available or is it something else I dont know about?

How many people would argue about 150 fps difference when handloading for it?

Red_Eagle · June 10, 2008, 01:52 AM

Ammo manufactuerers use powder unavailable to hand loaders. We call those "keg" powders. The stuff we hand load with are called canister powders.

DEDON45 · June 10, 2008, 07:54 AM

I'm getting ready to start reloading for mine... already have a press. I'm looking at getting a set of the RCBX X-Dies to help save the brass... no more trimming too. Should be fun!

BntBrl · June 10, 2008, 11:01 PM

I was looking at some of those that you dont have to trim. Im not sure how many reloads you can get out of a case, theres still some things that I have to learn first.

I already learned that you shouldnt have to resize near the belt, so that saves me some money. I assume that if you get brass from someone else you would need possibly to resize that area, but sounds like the primer pockets wear out first usually from your own rounds.

DEDON45 · June 11, 2008, 08:39 AM

Well, I ordered the X-Dies... it'll take a while to get them, as .300 Wby isn't a common request in these (apparently)... in the meantime...

What are you guys using for powder in these? I'm looking for a ball powder that will meter good with my powder measure. I will be running around a 150 or 170 grain bullet in my reloads.

BntBrl · June 20, 2008, 09:05 PM

I have reloaded 50 rounds already. Im using imr4831 and hornady spbt bullets. The groupings I have got are withing 1.5 inches at 100 yards. Im happy with that. The imr4831 isnt a ball type though. I only load 20 rounds at a time so I measure each load by hand to get it exactly the same through my entire box.

jrkotz · July 28, 2010, 08:10 PM

Respecting an old thread here.

I'm sure we have some experienced 300 wby loaders here, calling on your knowledge.

I have never reloaded a belted cartridge before, and am helping a friend work up a load for his 300 wby.

I loaded 20 to start (he has a TON of brass) for him to try in his Remington 700.

First shot (just over minimum charge) yielded a stuck casing and small stress/pressure crack above belt, as did second. He stopped firing there..

What am I doing wrong? This is once fired brass.

I'm assuming it has something to do with sizing. Any help would be appreciated.

Also - I'm unsure about die set up - Using a new set of RCBS FL dies. Any pointers?

Thanks in advance guys.

-J

rg1 · July 28, 2010, 09:48 PM

I load for my .300 Weatherby MkV. I've only used Remington and Weatherby factory cases. In my rifle you have to reduce the loads in the Rem brass. The Weatherby brass has more case volume.
Here's one example using 150 grain Hornady SP's, popular powder for Weatherby's, with Fed 215 primers.
Powder at 87.6 grains--Weatherby case---3343-3357 fps
same Powder at 85.4 grains---Remington case-------3293-3309 fps
So with my powder and rifle a 2.2 grain reduction using Rem brass nearly gets the same velocity as the 87.6 grain load in Weatherby brass.
Also, your Remington 700 may not have as much freebore as a Weatherby MkV and that could raise pressure too. Don't know about Remingtons chambers in .300 Wby?
When I 1st started loading my Wby. I full-length sized with firm contact with the die and shellholder. This pushed the shoulder back more than necessary which lets the case expand forward upon firing and the belted magnum case stretches just in front of the belt. By full-length sizing and pushing the shoulder back every firing, I could only get 3 loadings before there was a stretch mark inside the case and by loading it 4 times the brass looked unsafe to load again. By adjusting the full-length sizing die to only push the shoulder back from fired dimensions by about .002" will stop the brass from stretching so much just ahead of the belt. You need a tool to measure the amount of shoulder set back such as Hornady's Headspace Gauge set or some way to set your dies not to push the shoulder back when sizing. His once fired brass may have already stretched a lot? Use the bent wire feeler method to feel for the stretch mark thats just in front of the belt on the inside of the case wall. Don't load any cases with a deep stretch ring. Also, again, don't use data developed in Weatherby brass in RP or other brands without reducing and working up.

1911 Shooter · July 29, 2010, 08:38 AM

I like the 300 wby & I own one, & reload for it.. great caliber & performance. I use it to hunt with, mainly elk & mulies. As far as a target rifle, there are many better choices, performance & economy wise. best to all.

TATER · July 29, 2010, 03:53 PM

Need some more info. I assume factory ammo works?
What is your load? Can you post a Picture of the stressed brass?

A_Gamehog · July 30, 2010, 07:04 PM

300 WBY load

Good news....

180 Grain Barnes TTSX
Federal 215M (only) makes a difference!
Reloader 25
use the "hunting load" from Sierra for the 180's
Nosler brass is my favorite for the 300

Use a light crimp to engage the last band on the shank of the bullet but watch for too long of length. First is the rear of the bullet. They don't move ever.

bad news....
The primer pockets get lose after 4-6 loads. For that great power you pay a price. But look at it this way, less than 1 MOA out to 400 yards..

fxh · July 30, 2010, 09:03 PM

Consider:

1) After fire forming your bass, neck sizing. It immediately improve my accuracy.

2) weighing your brass for uniformity and load those case in batches that are within 1.5 grains of each other.

3) Do the same with your bullets but reduce your tolerances to .1 grains. That's the limit of accuracy my scale is capable of. Weighing will also address sizes most of the time.

4) trimming all your brass to with 2/1000Th of an inch for exact uniformity in length.

5) Using a seating die that will seat your bullet to within above tolerances.

6) Weighing all your powder loads individually.

7) Try different primer, powders and COAL. All rifles do not like the same load or powder.

8) Keep good records and look for patterns.

The cumulative effect of these steps have help me shoot much more accurately. There are no short cut to producing excellent reloads. But if you enjoy the whole idea of manufacturing in a craftsman like manner a product that you like to use, time will pass quickly.

Good shooting
fxh

PS: My Mark V likes 84.1 gn of imr7828ssc over a Fed 215M Primer using a NP 180 gn bullet.

escard · August 4, 2010, 01:53 AM

any "good 180-grainer" combined with Norma MRP and Federal 215-M will do the trick..........

langenc · August 5, 2010, 10:32 PM

257 here.

Contact Weatherby and ask to buy some (all) of their 300 brass generated by the factory sighting.

I asked several years ago.. Got all kind of funny answers. Very short time later Midway offered 'once fired' Wby brass in several calibers-100 cases per box. I got one box and a friend suggested I should have done more. Week later-all gone and I have never seen since..

Call em..let me know what they say.

Shoney · August 5, 2010, 10:55 PM

Pressure signs at start load charges - - - sounds like the case length is too long. If the neck is going into the bore by a minute amount, the bullet cannot move forward without a great deal of pressure . Check case length and trim if necessary.

I have never been able to equal factory ammo velocities by hand loading the 300Wby.

jrkotz · August 7, 2010, 07:36 PM

After further inspection, once fired factory loads have a "stretch mark" It's a shiny band above the belt.

The rifle can only use Federal ammo, Weatherby factory loaded gets stuck after firing.

Is this a wicked sloppy chamber or what? From what I have read so far, it seems the issue would be too much headspace?

Let me know what you think, Thanks again, you guys are very helpful.

SEHunter · November 25, 2012, 06:47 PM

as stated earlier, you should measure the headspace of a fired case (with RCBS precision mic or Hornady's headspace tool) from this gun and compare the measurement to factory rounds of all the brands you have available. If any gun has issues with firing factory ammo (especially Weatherby factory ammo because it consists of top quality components), i would have to assume there is an issue with the chamber/gun and would have a reputable gunsmith inspect it.

newbweatherby · May 3, 2015, 10:02 PM

Hi all this my very first post on this forum,I actually joined this site because of this topic, First of all I have had my Remington 700 classic since 1989 and I have shot just about every type of 150 grain ammunition I could get my hands on and I may as well have shot a 12 gauge unchoked at 100 yards as I had flyers all over the place anything under 6 " was a decent group but all that changed once I started running longer and heavier 180gr rounds I used everything from Weatherby Nosler, and Remington, which all grouped really well my best being .66" 3 shot group 3"s high @100 yards.
So now I have just got myself into handloading just over a year ago with my Lee single stage breech lock system and ordered the Lee collet dies and Lee factory crimper .So I would lime to know where to start with loads to try some 165-168 grain rounds as far as powder selections that work well with its 24" factory barrel that would offer great velocity and accuracy with out undo pressure I have heard R22 and Winchester Supreme 780 are good starting points but I don't really don't know where to start so any useful info is greatly appreciated.

Bucksnort1 · May 3, 2015, 11:11 PM

For those of you who say you never have to re-size the 300 to the belt, let me tell you what happened to me.

A few years ago, I had the problem, after full length sizing with an RCBS die, of not being able to chamber loaded rounds. They didn't chamber because the die was not installed properly but rather, because the die didn't remove the bulge directly above the belt.

I took my Mark V and two re-sized cases, that would not chamber, to a reputable gun shop. I demonstrated the problem to the gun smith. He pulled a used 300 Mark V from his rack and was able to chamber the two cases without difficulty.

AllenJ · May 4, 2015, 09:09 AM

Winchester Supreme 780 has been discontinued so don't waste your time working up a load with it if you have any. For the 300 Weatherby slow burning powders are going to give you the best results. I would try R22, 4831, and 7828.

newbweatherby · May 4, 2015, 10:51 AM

Allen J really Winchester 780 has been discontinued? Thanks for the heads up ,how do you think 7828 reloader 22 will burn in a shorter 24"barrel how about reloaded 25 or retumbo?I have heard from a friend who has been handloading longer than I have been alive and he loves reloader 22 as well .

June 9, 2008, 01:03 AM	#1
BntBrl Member Join Date: June 8, 2008 Posts: 95	Any .300 Weatherby Magnum Reloaders Im getting into reloading to reload for my Weatherby .300 mag. I like it a lot, but its getting expensive. So Ive decided to try reloading. I only go through about 40 rounds a week but at that rate its several hundred dollars a month. I cant see paying that if I can reload the cases a few times. Ive seen a collet press that resizes the area in the casing just above the banding in addition to the rest of the case needing resizing. Anyone else here reload the weatherby 300 mag?

June 9, 2008, 12:03 PM	#3
Shoney Senior Member Join Date: February 21, 2002 Location: Transplanted from Montana Posts: 2,311	I have helped a few acquaintances work up 300 Weatherby loads. I use a standard 2 die set from Hornady. If loading cases for the weapon they were fired in, I usually size to just a fraction above the shoulder and check for fit in the chamber. For base lines, we used Weatherby factory ammo over the chrono. Factory 180gr were 3200fps and 200gr were slightly above 3000f[s Accuracy loads for 180gr using IMR4831were at or very slightly above max; but the velocities were well below factory by 250-350fps; while H1000 did much better in velocity with 200-250fps below factory. With 200gr Nosler Partition, Retumbo came closest to factory loads (around 50fps slower), while IMR4831 gave the most accurate loads, but 150fps below factory. __________________ I pledge allegiance to the Flag - - -, and to the Republic for which it stands….Our Forefathers were brilliant for giving us a Republic, not a democracy! Do you know the difference??? and WHY?http://www.wallbuilders.com/LIBissue...les.asp?id=111

July 30, 2010, 07:04 PM	#15
A_Gamehog Senior Member Join Date: February 9, 2009 Location: Central Oregun Posts: 563	300 WBY load Good news.... 180 Grain Barnes TTSX Federal 215M (only) makes a difference! Reloader 25 use the "hunting load" from Sierra for the 180's Nosler brass is my favorite for the 300 Use a light crimp to engage the last band on the shank of the bullet but watch for too long of length. First is the rear of the bullet. They don't move ever. bad news.... The primer pockets get lose after 4-6 loads. For that great power you pay a price. But look at it this way, less than 1 MOA out to 400 yards.. __________________ "Happiness is knowing the Barred Owl is Eating the Spotted Owl and environmentalists are watching Nature take it's course" Last edited by A_Gamehog; July 30, 2010 at 07:12 PM.

July 30, 2010, 09:03 PM	#16
fxh Member Join Date: January 22, 2010 Location: Florida Posts: 32	Look at the Entire Process Consider: 1) After fire forming your bass, neck sizing. It immediately improve my accuracy. 2) weighing your brass for uniformity and load those case in batches that are within 1.5 grains of each other. 3) Do the same with your bullets but reduce your tolerances to .1 grains. That's the limit of accuracy my scale is capable of. Weighing will also address sizes most of the time. 4) trimming all your brass to with 2/1000Th of an inch for exact uniformity in length. 5) Using a seating die that will seat your bullet to within above tolerances. 6) Weighing all your powder loads individually. 7) Try different primer, powders and COAL. All rifles do not like the same load or powder. 8) Keep good records and look for patterns. The cumulative effect of these steps have help me shoot much more accurately. There are no short cut to producing excellent reloads. But if you enjoy the whole idea of manufacturing in a craftsman like manner a product that you like to use, time will pass quickly. Good shooting fxh PS: My Mark V likes 84.1 gn of imr7828ssc over a Fed 215M Primer using a NP 180 gn bullet.

August 5, 2010, 10:55 PM	#19
Shoney Senior Member Join Date: February 21, 2002 Location: Transplanted from Montana Posts: 2,311	Pressure signs at start load charges - - - sounds like the case length is too long. If the neck is going into the bore by a minute amount, the bullet cannot move forward without a great deal of pressure . Check case length and trim if necessary. I have never been able to equal factory ammo velocities by hand loading the 300Wby. __________________ I pledge allegiance to the Flag - - -, and to the Republic for which it stands….Our Forefathers were brilliant for giving us a Republic, not a democracy! Do you know the difference??? and WHY?http://www.wallbuilders.com/LIBissue...les.asp?id=111

June 9, 2008, 08:28 AM	#2
Ranger61 Senior Member Join Date: September 3, 2004 Posts: 213	I reload 300 weatherby. I have never needed to use a die that resizes the area just above the belt. I have a Redding full length sizing die that I adjust to do the minimum resize necessary to make the case fit into the chamber, then reload normally. Bolt action guns usually have plenty to cam action even if the case is a touch tight. Usually the case gets rejected because the primer pockets get loose not because of bulging above the belt.

June 9, 2008, 05:02 PM	#4
eastbank Senior Member Join Date: February 7, 2008 Location: pa. Posts: 2,450	83grs h-4831,165 nosler ballistic tip, 26 inche barrel 3200fps. mark 5 ss weatherby. 2.5 inch groups at 300yds with 6.6x20 leupold. no trouble with FL RCBS dies. eastbank.

June 10, 2008, 01:02 AM	#5
BntBrl Member Join Date: June 8, 2008 Posts: 95	My rifle likes the 180 grain Weatherby brand factory ammo. THe 160 grain not so much seems like. Please forgive my ignorance, but why is the factory loads faster than the reloads? THe same powder isnt available or is it something else I dont know about? How many people would argue about 150 fps difference when handloading for it?

June 10, 2008, 01:52 AM	#6
Red_Eagle Senior Member Join Date: February 3, 2007 Location: Western NY Posts: 598	Ammo manufactuerers use powder unavailable to hand loaders. We call those "keg" powders. The stuff we hand load with are called canister powders.

June 10, 2008, 07:54 AM	#7
DEDON45 Senior Member Join Date: March 24, 2008 Posts: 278	I'm getting ready to start reloading for mine... already have a press. I'm looking at getting a set of the RCBX X-Dies to help save the brass... no more trimming too. Should be fun!

June 10, 2008, 11:01 PM	#8
BntBrl Member Join Date: June 8, 2008 Posts: 95	I was looking at some of those that you dont have to trim. Im not sure how many reloads you can get out of a case, theres still some things that I have to learn first. I already learned that you shouldnt have to resize near the belt, so that saves me some money. I assume that if you get brass from someone else you would need possibly to resize that area, but sounds like the primer pockets wear out first usually from your own rounds.

June 11, 2008, 08:39 AM	#9
DEDON45 Senior Member Join Date: March 24, 2008 Posts: 278	Well, I ordered the X-Dies... it'll take a while to get them, as .300 Wby isn't a common request in these (apparently)... in the meantime... What are you guys using for powder in these? I'm looking for a ball powder that will meter good with my powder measure. I will be running around a 150 or 170 grain bullet in my reloads.

June 20, 2008, 09:05 PM	#10
BntBrl Member Join Date: June 8, 2008 Posts: 95	I have reloaded 50 rounds already. Im using imr4831 and hornady spbt bullets. The groupings I have got are withing 1.5 inches at 100 yards. Im happy with that. The imr4831 isnt a ball type though. I only load 20 rounds at a time so I measure each load by hand to get it exactly the same through my entire box.

July 28, 2010, 08:10 PM	#11
jrkotz Junior Member Join Date: July 28, 2010 Posts: 2	Respecting an old thread here. I'm sure we have some experienced 300 wby loaders here, calling on your knowledge. I have never reloaded a belted cartridge before, and am helping a friend work up a load for his 300 wby. I loaded 20 to start (he has a TON of brass) for him to try in his Remington 700. First shot (just over minimum charge) yielded a stuck casing and small stress/pressure crack above belt, as did second. He stopped firing there.. What am I doing wrong? This is once fired brass. I'm assuming it has something to do with sizing. Any help would be appreciated. Also - I'm unsure about die set up - Using a new set of RCBS FL dies. Any pointers? Thanks in advance guys. -J

July 28, 2010, 09:48 PM	#12
rg1 Senior Member Join Date: November 6, 2001 Posts: 1,125	I load for my .300 Weatherby MkV. I've only used Remington and Weatherby factory cases. In my rifle you have to reduce the loads in the Rem brass. The Weatherby brass has more case volume. Here's one example using 150 grain Hornady SP's, popular powder for Weatherby's, with Fed 215 primers. Powder at 87.6 grains--Weatherby case---3343-3357 fps same Powder at 85.4 grains---Remington case-------3293-3309 fps So with my powder and rifle a 2.2 grain reduction using Rem brass nearly gets the same velocity as the 87.6 grain load in Weatherby brass. Also, your Remington 700 may not have as much freebore as a Weatherby MkV and that could raise pressure too. Don't know about Remingtons chambers in .300 Wby? When I 1st started loading my Wby. I full-length sized with firm contact with the die and shellholder. This pushed the shoulder back more than necessary which lets the case expand forward upon firing and the belted magnum case stretches just in front of the belt. By full-length sizing and pushing the shoulder back every firing, I could only get 3 loadings before there was a stretch mark inside the case and by loading it 4 times the brass looked unsafe to load again. By adjusting the full-length sizing die to only push the shoulder back from fired dimensions by about .002" will stop the brass from stretching so much just ahead of the belt. You need a tool to measure the amount of shoulder set back such as Hornady's Headspace Gauge set or some way to set your dies not to push the shoulder back when sizing. His once fired brass may have already stretched a lot? Use the bent wire feeler method to feel for the stretch mark thats just in front of the belt on the inside of the case wall. Don't load any cases with a deep stretch ring. Also, again, don't use data developed in Weatherby brass in RP or other brands without reducing and working up.

July 29, 2010, 08:38 AM	#13
1911 Shooter Senior Member Join Date: March 1, 2006 Posts: 124	I like the 300 wby & I own one, & reload for it.. great caliber & performance. I use it to hunt with, mainly elk & mulies. As far as a target rifle, there are many better choices, performance & economy wise. best to all.

July 29, 2010, 03:53 PM	#14
TATER Senior Member Join Date: November 19, 2002 Location: Mississippi Posts: 963	Need some more info. I assume factory ammo works? What is your load? Can you post a Picture of the stressed brass?

August 4, 2010, 01:53 AM	#17
escard Member Join Date: April 20, 2010 Posts: 44	any "good 180-grainer" combined with Norma MRP and Federal 215-M will do the trick..........

August 5, 2010, 10:32 PM	#18
langenc Senior Member Join Date: August 19, 2007 Location: Montmorency Co, MI Posts: 1,551	257 here. Contact Weatherby and ask to buy some (all) of their 300 brass generated by the factory sighting. I asked several years ago.. Got all kind of funny answers. Very short time later Midway offered 'once fired' Wby brass in several calibers-100 cases per box. I got one box and a friend suggested I should have done more. Week later-all gone and I have never seen since.. Call em..let me know what they say.

August 7, 2010, 07:36 PM	#20
jrkotz Junior Member Join Date: July 28, 2010 Posts: 2	Factory After further inspection, once fired factory loads have a "stretch mark" It's a shiny band above the belt. The rifle can only use Federal ammo, Weatherby factory loaded gets stuck after firing. Is this a wicked sloppy chamber or what? From what I have read so far, it seems the issue would be too much headspace? Let me know what you think, Thanks again, you guys are very helpful.

November 25, 2012, 06:47 PM	#21
SEHunter Senior Member Join Date: October 6, 2009 Posts: 332	as stated earlier, you should measure the headspace of a fired case (with RCBS precision mic or Hornady's headspace tool) from this gun and compare the measurement to factory rounds of all the brands you have available. If any gun has issues with firing factory ammo (especially Weatherby factory ammo because it consists of top quality components), i would have to assume there is an issue with the chamber/gun and would have a reputable gunsmith inspect it.

May 3, 2015, 10:02 PM	#22
newbweatherby Member Join Date: May 2, 2015 Posts: 23	300 Weatherby loads for Remington 700 with 24" barrel Hi all this my very first post on this forum,I actually joined this site because of this topic, First of all I have had my Remington 700 classic since 1989 and I have shot just about every type of 150 grain ammunition I could get my hands on and I may as well have shot a 12 gauge unchoked at 100 yards as I had flyers all over the place anything under 6 " was a decent group but all that changed once I started running longer and heavier 180gr rounds I used everything from Weatherby Nosler, and Remington, which all grouped really well my best being .66" 3 shot group 3"s high @100 yards. So now I have just got myself into handloading just over a year ago with my Lee single stage breech lock system and ordered the Lee collet dies and Lee factory crimper .So I would lime to know where to start with loads to try some 165-168 grain rounds as far as powder selections that work well with its 24" factory barrel that would offer great velocity and accuracy with out undo pressure I have heard R22 and Winchester Supreme 780 are good starting points but I don't really don't know where to start so any useful info is greatly appreciated.

May 3, 2015, 11:11 PM	#23
Bucksnort1 Senior Member Join Date: July 8, 2013 Location: Littleton, Colorado Posts: 1,121	For those of you who say you never have to re-size the 300 to the belt, let me tell you what happened to me. A few years ago, I had the problem, after full length sizing with an RCBS die, of not being able to chamber loaded rounds. They didn't chamber because the die was not installed properly but rather, because the die didn't remove the bulge directly above the belt. I took my Mark V and two re-sized cases, that would not chamber, to a reputable gun shop. I demonstrated the problem to the gun smith. He pulled a used 300 Mark V from his rack and was able to chamber the two cases without difficulty.

May 4, 2015, 09:09 AM	#24
AllenJ Senior Member Join Date: December 11, 2009 Location: Northern California Posts: 1,766	Winchester Supreme 780 has been discontinued so don't waste your time working up a load with it if you have any. For the 300 Weatherby slow burning powders are going to give you the best results. I would try R22, 4831, and 7828.

May 4, 2015, 10:51 AM	#25
newbweatherby Member Join Date: May 2, 2015 Posts: 23	thank you Allen J really Winchester 780 has been discontinued? Thanks for the heads up ,how do you think 7828 reloader 22 will burn in a shorter 24"barrel how about reloaded 25 or retumbo?I have heard from a friend who has been handloading longer than I have been alive and he loves reloader 22 as well .