Revitalizing a Smith Corona Sporter

dakota.potts · April 20, 2017, 07:56 PM

I posted a thread Not long ago about a 1944 Smith Corona 1903A3 I picked up in sporter condition. The plan was to keep it in sporter condition but with a new stock, trigger and sights.

As it was.

One of the immediate problems was the trigger. It had to be one of the worst I had ever felt. About 4 different stages of creep and take-up, mushy break, overall unpleasant. I ordered a Timney Sportsman Trigger for it (installation video here: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=uAZr64b5YXw) and installed it. The installation took about 5 minutes, and inletting the stock and trigger guard to accept it took about an hour at a leisurely pace. The trigger is many, many times improved and now breaks at about 3 and a half pounds with very little take-up or creep. A much nicer experience.

I also went to Boyd's and ordered a custom stock for it, specifying a Claro X walnut stock blank. I know these pictures are not the best, but I was very happy with the grain I got from my Claro X blank. I also had them install a Limbsaver pad on it.

On merit of being a pre-inletted stock made to drop in from the factory, it is very "gappy". There are large gaps all the way around the receiver. In order to fit it better, I would have had to start from a semi-inlet blank and inlet the stock myself, a process that could have taken 100 hours or more which I didn't have. I am not super happy about the gaps that are there, but I will fill them with some bedding dyed to match the wood as close as possible, which is about the best feasible fix for it. Boyd's no longer does semi-inlet stock blanks for those who are looking, and I have heard mixed reviews on the other companies who do in my price range.

Blindstitch · April 20, 2017, 09:29 PM

Looks like progress to me. Those timney triggers are great. Installation into my Winchester 1917 was fast. Only wish they made a safetyless drop in trigger like that for the Arisaka.

Scorch · April 20, 2017, 09:50 PM

dakota-
Although the grain is beautiful in Claro walnut, it is not very dense. In addition, the grain is your stock runs at an angle through the action area, critical due to flexing in the magazine well could cause cracks under recoil, so keep an eye on that. Otherwise, good going!

I am not really a fan of Boyds stocks. I understand that they are a low-budget alternative to a stock replacement, but their inletting and stock shape does leave a lot to be desired.

dakota.potts · April 20, 2017, 10:07 PM

Thanks Scorch! I understand that the Boyd's is what it is. I was going to order one from Great American Gunstocks (or maybe Walnut Grove, I forget which they are now) but I'm really too short on time to inlet and shape something like that. Between Boyd's, Richards, and several of the others I was advised that Boyd's was one of the better if I had to pick a "drop-in" stock.

I plan on doing the first coat with polyurethane to seal it and then wet sand the finishing oil into the poly to fill the pores in the wood somewhat. Bedding should help reduce some of the impact in high stress areas to reduce the risk of stock cracking.

UnkBK · April 21, 2017, 01:11 PM

When you bed it make sure to leave a gap behind the rear tang or it will crack from recoil.

Jim Watson · April 21, 2017, 01:17 PM

See if you can find it a milled 03 trigger guard and floorplate. Much nicer looking on a sporter than the angular stamped WWII part.

RC20 · April 21, 2017, 03:39 PM

While I do not know about the wood Boyds, I do have two of the Laminated ones.

The fit is so good there is no need to bed, I get sub 5/8 groups with my 06 bull barrel on a Savage action.

ThomasT · April 21, 2017, 05:09 PM

I agree with the trigger update but to be honest I sorta like the original stock better. Looks like a good start to a fun project. Did you shoot the gun first to see how it grouped?

FrankenMauser · April 21, 2017, 08:55 PM

I know it's a little late at this point, but Walnut Grove has some fantastic bargains on occasion, if you're willing to live with a cosmetic defect.

I've got a very nice Quilted Maple stock with a small sapwood inclusion on one side of the butt. Price dropped from $450 to $70; and I like the character of the blemish.
--Edit: I'm confusing two stocks, I think. I have one Quilted Maple stock with a small inclusion in the butt and another with sapwood all through the bottom of the pistol grip (which gets cut off and capped anyway, for my project). One stock came from Walnut Grove, but the other did not. Can't remember which is which, now. Either way, the WG stock was the better deal and had a huge discount for the blemish.--
And there's a very plain, light-grained walnut stock next to it with rust streaks from an old fencing staple. $90 became $25. ...And I think the rust just improves the stock.

dakota.potts · April 21, 2017, 09:31 PM

Quote:

Did you shoot the gun first to see how it grouped?

The first time I shot it, the trigger was so awful you couldn't break it consistently and we also got a dead trigger after 8 rounds. It was hitting POA give or take a couple inches at 25 yards but I decided it best to take into school for a full checkup before we shot it any more due to the dead trigger.

I was not a fan of the color and very plain grain on the original Fajen stock (which was broken and in need of repair in several areas) but everybody's entitled to their opinion. I ended up selling the Fajen to a classmate of mine who did like the style.

ronl · April 21, 2017, 11:23 PM

I think you would be better served by starting the finish with several coats of sanding sealer initially to seal the wood before applying any poly. The sanding sealer will dry very quickly' and light sanding with 200 grit paper between coats will yield a finish that will look like a coat of glass over the wood with 4-5 coats of the sealer, that is with a good top coat of poly(2-3min) over that. I wouldn't advise a coat of an oil finish over the polymer based poly coat. Adhesion and durability can be a problem as they really are not compatible. Light sanding with a 400 grit paper between coats of poly will yield really great results. You can watch the grains of wood "shift" depending upon your perspective. It all depends on the depth of the finish applied. Patience is the key and the depth of the finish is all based on the number of coats applied. I would advise that the finish coat be polished with very fine steel wool. with several coats of pure carnuba wax on top of that. You can end up with a finish that is pretty much flawless and something awesome to look at, not to mention very durable.

ThomasT · April 22, 2017, 01:28 PM

Hi Dakota. If your stock was broke or cracked then you did the right thing by replacing it.

Ronl gave some good tips on finishing but I use a different procedure. I like to wet the wood and sand off the whiskers until it doesn't whisker anymore. I use Jasco wood filler recommended by gunwriter John Barsness. It is a cream color in the can but turns a very nice walnut color when applied. Then sand and fill till you like the base finish.

I have done the linseed oil, Formbys, and a couple of other oil finishes. They are nice and can take time. On the last couple of refinishes I have just sprayed several coats of Minwax Polyurethane with the satin finish and called it good. This is close to the sheen seen on Ruger MkII rifles. But my guns are for field use, not show pieces.

HiBC · May 12, 2017, 10:28 AM

Long ago there was a Gun Digest article on stocking "stopping" rifles...as in how to get them to hold up.
A big factor is the two slabs of wood that house the receiver tend to flex outward under recoil.When this flex occurs,so does a vertical split through the wood behind the recoil lug and maybe at the tang...especially if the recoil lug support is failing.
A great help is the cross bolts that were used on the Springfield.They fight the outward flex.
Here is the part that is less well known.An 03 milled guard is nice for this.
You want the mag box to support the wood behind the recoil lug.Bedding compound there is just fine.From there,you want the recoil to travel through the guard to the wood behind tang of the trigger guard.That wood is very well supported.
And,of course,you want a little clearance behind the receiver tang,because that wood is not well supported and can chip out.

We do miss the old days of Bishop and Fajen and all that Missouri Walnut!!
Nice looking rifle!

April 20, 2017, 07:56 PM	#1
dakota.potts Senior Member Join Date: February 25, 2013 Location: Keystone Heights, Florida Posts: 3,084	Revitalizing a Smith Corona Sporter I posted a thread Not long ago about a 1944 Smith Corona 1903A3 I picked up in sporter condition. The plan was to keep it in sporter condition but with a new stock, trigger and sights. As it was. One of the immediate problems was the trigger. It had to be one of the worst I had ever felt. About 4 different stages of creep and take-up, mushy break, overall unpleasant. I ordered a Timney Sportsman Trigger for it (installation video here: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=uAZr64b5YXw) and installed it. The installation took about 5 minutes, and inletting the stock and trigger guard to accept it took about an hour at a leisurely pace. The trigger is many, many times improved and now breaks at about 3 and a half pounds with very little take-up or creep. A much nicer experience. I also went to Boyd's and ordered a custom stock for it, specifying a Claro X walnut stock blank. I know these pictures are not the best, but I was very happy with the grain I got from my Claro X blank. I also had them install a Limbsaver pad on it. On merit of being a pre-inletted stock made to drop in from the factory, it is very "gappy". There are large gaps all the way around the receiver. In order to fit it better, I would have had to start from a semi-inlet blank and inlet the stock myself, a process that could have taken 100 hours or more which I didn't have. I am not super happy about the gaps that are there, but I will fill them with some bedding dyed to match the wood as close as possible, which is about the best feasible fix for it. Boyd's no longer does semi-inlet stock blanks for those who are looking, and I have heard mixed reviews on the other companies who do in my price range. __________________ Certified Gunsmith (On Hiatus) Certified Armorer - H&K and Glock Among Others You can find my writings at my website, pottsprecision.com.

April 20, 2017, 09:50 PM	#3
Scorch Senior Member Join Date: February 13, 2006 Location: Washington state Posts: 15,248	dakota- Although the grain is beautiful in Claro walnut, it is not very dense. In addition, the grain is your stock runs at an angle through the action area, critical due to flexing in the magazine well could cause cracks under recoil, so keep an eye on that. Otherwise, good going! I am not really a fan of Boyds stocks. I understand that they are a low-budget alternative to a stock replacement, but their inletting and stock shape does leave a lot to be desired. __________________ Never try to educate someone who resists knowledge at all costs. But what do I know? Summit Arms Services

April 20, 2017, 10:07 PM	#4
dakota.potts Senior Member Join Date: February 25, 2013 Location: Keystone Heights, Florida Posts: 3,084	Thanks Scorch! I understand that the Boyd's is what it is. I was going to order one from Great American Gunstocks (or maybe Walnut Grove, I forget which they are now) but I'm really too short on time to inlet and shape something like that. Between Boyd's, Richards, and several of the others I was advised that Boyd's was one of the better if I had to pick a "drop-in" stock. I plan on doing the first coat with polyurethane to seal it and then wet sand the finishing oil into the poly to fill the pores in the wood somewhat. Bedding should help reduce some of the impact in high stress areas to reduce the risk of stock cracking. __________________ Certified Gunsmith (On Hiatus) Certified Armorer - H&K and Glock Among Others You can find my writings at my website, pottsprecision.com.

April 21, 2017, 08:55 PM	#9
FrankenMauser Senior Member Join Date: August 25, 2008 Location: In the valley above the plain Posts: 13,424	I know it's a little late at this point, but Walnut Grove has some fantastic bargains on occasion, if you're willing to live with a cosmetic defect. I've got a very nice Quilted Maple stock with a small sapwood inclusion on one side of the butt. Price dropped from $450 to $70; and I like the character of the blemish. --Edit: I'm confusing two stocks, I think. I have one Quilted Maple stock with a small inclusion in the butt and another with sapwood all through the bottom of the pistol grip (which gets cut off and capped anyway, for my project). One stock came from Walnut Grove, but the other did not. Can't remember which is which, now. Either way, the WG stock was the better deal and had a huge discount for the blemish.-- And there's a very plain, light-grained walnut stock next to it with rust streaks from an old fencing staple. $90 became $25. ...And I think the rust just improves the stock. __________________ Don't even try it. It's even worse than the internet would lead you to believe.

April 20, 2017, 09:29 PM	#2
Blindstitch Senior Member Join Date: April 14, 2013 Location: Milwaukee, Wisconsin Posts: 2,692	Looks like progress to me. Those timney triggers are great. Installation into my Winchester 1917 was fast. Only wish they made a safetyless drop in trigger like that for the Arisaka.

April 21, 2017, 01:11 PM	#5
UnkBK Member Join Date: February 19, 2012 Posts: 29	When you bed it make sure to leave a gap behind the rear tang or it will crack from recoil.

April 21, 2017, 01:17 PM	#6
Jim Watson Senior Member Join Date: October 25, 2001 Location: Alabama Posts: 18,536	See if you can find it a milled 03 trigger guard and floorplate. Much nicer looking on a sporter than the angular stamped WWII part.

April 21, 2017, 03:39 PM	#7
RC20 Senior Member Join Date: April 10, 2008 Location: Alaska Posts: 7,014	While I do not know about the wood Boyds, I do have two of the Laminated ones. The fit is so good there is no need to bed, I get sub 5/8 groups with my 06 bull barrel on a Savage action.

April 21, 2017, 05:09 PM	#8
ThomasT Senior Member Join Date: January 22, 2009 Location: Texas Posts: 2,753	I agree with the trigger update but to be honest I sorta like the original stock better. Looks like a good start to a fun project. Did you shoot the gun first to see how it grouped?

April 21, 2017, 11:23 PM	#11
ronl Senior Member Join Date: December 2, 2007 Posts: 1,100	I think you would be better served by starting the finish with several coats of sanding sealer initially to seal the wood before applying any poly. The sanding sealer will dry very quickly' and light sanding with 200 grit paper between coats will yield a finish that will look like a coat of glass over the wood with 4-5 coats of the sealer, that is with a good top coat of poly(2-3min) over that. I wouldn't advise a coat of an oil finish over the polymer based poly coat. Adhesion and durability can be a problem as they really are not compatible. Light sanding with a 400 grit paper between coats of poly will yield really great results. You can watch the grains of wood "shift" depending upon your perspective. It all depends on the depth of the finish applied. Patience is the key and the depth of the finish is all based on the number of coats applied. I would advise that the finish coat be polished with very fine steel wool. with several coats of pure carnuba wax on top of that. You can end up with a finish that is pretty much flawless and something awesome to look at, not to mention very durable.

April 22, 2017, 01:28 PM	#12
ThomasT Senior Member Join Date: January 22, 2009 Location: Texas Posts: 2,753	Hi Dakota. If your stock was broke or cracked then you did the right thing by replacing it. Ronl gave some good tips on finishing but I use a different procedure. I like to wet the wood and sand off the whiskers until it doesn't whisker anymore. I use Jasco wood filler recommended by gunwriter John Barsness. It is a cream color in the can but turns a very nice walnut color when applied. Then sand and fill till you like the base finish. I have done the linseed oil, Formbys, and a couple of other oil finishes. They are nice and can take time. On the last couple of refinishes I have just sprayed several coats of Minwax Polyurethane with the satin finish and called it good. This is close to the sheen seen on Ruger MkII rifles. But my guns are for field use, not show pieces.

May 12, 2017, 10:28 AM	#13
HiBC Senior Member Join Date: November 13, 2006 Posts: 8,283	Long ago there was a Gun Digest article on stocking "stopping" rifles...as in how to get them to hold up. A big factor is the two slabs of wood that house the receiver tend to flex outward under recoil.When this flex occurs,so does a vertical split through the wood behind the recoil lug and maybe at the tang...especially if the recoil lug support is failing. A great help is the cross bolts that were used on the Springfield.They fight the outward flex. Here is the part that is less well known.An 03 milled guard is nice for this. You want the mag box to support the wood behind the recoil lug.Bedding compound there is just fine.From there,you want the recoil to travel through the guard to the wood behind tang of the trigger guard.That wood is very well supported. And,of course,you want a little clearance behind the receiver tang,because that wood is not well supported and can chip out. We do miss the old days of Bishop and Fajen and all that Missouri Walnut!! Nice looking rifle!