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Old June 13, 2010, 09:52 PM   #1
Plaz
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how to reload 44 remington mag cartridges

I need a procedure for loading 44 magnum cartridges? Do I use an expander die and what kind of crimp do I use?
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Old June 13, 2010, 09:58 PM   #2
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First I would recommend you purchase a reloading manual, and if you have a friend that reloads get them to give you some help/advice.

You will need a .44mag dies set (or .44 spl) that has three dies and a shellholder, as well as a reloading press, new bullets, primers and powder. You will also need a way to measure the powder.

1 The first die is for full length sizing. It will size the case and remove the old primer.
2 The second die will expand/bell the case neck to make seating a new bullet easier.
3 You will then need to install a new primer and then the right amount of the powder you choose
4 You then use the third die to seat a new bullet, and also to add a slight roll crimp.

More steps can be taken in loading, but these are the minimum you will need. There are some instructions on Lees site for their tools that will show you what I have explained.

http://www.leeprecision.com/cgi-data...uct/HP2520.pdf
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Old June 13, 2010, 10:03 PM   #3
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Assuming you are a beginner

Get your hands on a good reloading book, like Hornady or Nosler or Barnes. The book will lead you through the process, and my advice is to read it a couple of times, and then as you start to reload, kind of keep it open to whatever stage you are at.

I have made a few mistakes, and have been lucky that I didn't hurt myself or any guns. All of the reloaders I know say the same thing: "The more I reload the more I find out I don't know." That goes for me too. It looks simple at first glance, but there are a lot of details and lots of techniques.

We all start the same way, darn near totally ignorant. It is great fun, and keeps getting more interesting all of the time. Good luck and have fun!
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Old June 13, 2010, 10:12 PM   #4
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When you are ready to start loading, you'll be drawn to H110 or W296 (they are the same thing) powder because they give the highest performance. You don't want that; they are very fickle to work with. Start with something like Unique or Herco until you know what you are doing. Then try 2400 or AA#9 for more oomph. These powders all have much wider useful ranges than H110/W296 and you don't have to worry about whether you need a magnum primer or not.
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Old June 14, 2010, 02:52 AM   #5
Plaz
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ouldn't set the crimp

I just tried to setup my 44 mag dies in my Hornady LNL AP press and ran into a problem with the seating/crimp die. When I followed the procedure I got up to seating the bullet the desired depth and achieved the desired COL, but when I proceeded to set the crimp all I did was seat the bullet further and further into the case achieving no crimp at all.. What am I doing wrong?
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Old June 14, 2010, 03:53 AM   #6
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My guess is that you are turning the wrong post. Usually the die manufacturer gives detailed instructions on setting up the die.

Personally, I use the Lee FC die instead of the taper crimp.
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Old June 14, 2010, 08:30 AM   #7
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Take an empty but sized case (and not expanded; just use die #1), run it up in the seating die. Screw the die body down until it is snug against the case mouth and tighten the locknut. This is your rough adjustment for the crimp. You may have to tighten it a little more, but probably not. Now back off the seating stem or knob on top of the die. Put your case that has the bullet seated to the depth you want under it and run it up (which will crimp it). Then tighten the seating stem/knob until it is snug against the bullet. You've just adjusted the bullet seater without disturbing the crimp adjustment. HTH
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Old June 14, 2010, 03:59 PM   #8
Plaz
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On my Hornady LNL, 44 mag. I am still confused about the seating/crimping die. Assuming I have everything setup properly how do I initiate a crimp or a seating effort when I want to do one or the other?

I still don't know how to set up the crimp and seating without losing one or the other setting in the process. The Hornady proceduire must be incorrect. i need an accurate procedure?
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Old June 14, 2010, 04:36 PM   #9
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Check out the videos and info at ammosmith.com.
There's probably a good explanation.
http://ammosmith.com/basic-reloading...-reloading.php
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Old June 14, 2010, 05:06 PM   #10
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zxcvbob explained it pretty well and it's how most of us do it. You can use a factory crimp die if you want, but I'm too lazy to bother with an extra step. I'll explain it again. Same procedure as what zxcvbob said, but maybe different words will make it more clear.

First, take a sized, primed,expanded, and charged case (but no bullet yet) and put it in the press. With the seater die body screwed way up (we don't want it touch anything yet), run your charged case up to the top of the press.

Now, screw the body of the die down (this is the outside of the die itself) until it just barely makes contact with the top of the brass. You'll feel it.

Now back the body of the die off a turn or two (that means screw it upwards). We want the body to be sorta close to the brass, but we're not messing with the crimp yet so we don't want it touching.

Now seat a bullet in the case and with the seater plug (the top knob) backed WAY out (upwards) bring the press to the top. Once again, your case and bullet shouldn't be touching any part of the die yet.

Now slowly slowly start screwing in the seating plug until it makes contact with the top of the bullet. Then lower the press, screw the seating plug in a turn or two and look at the bullet seating. It is gradually starting to seat deeper into the case.

Keep doing this maybe a turn or so to start with, then lesser amounts to the seating plug until you have the bullet seated at the desired depth. For me, I seat it so that the top of the crimping cannelure is exactly even with the top of the brass.

Now you have the "ideal" seating depth but no crimp applied at all. So, next, screw that seating plug WAY out. At least 5 or 6 turns. Run the cartridge in thet press up to the top again. Once again screw the outside body of the die back down until it just makes contact with the cartridge. This setting would not ptoduce a crimp nor would the seating die change the seting depth right? Lower the press and screw the outside body of the die down maybe a half turn. The seating plug is still not making contact. What you are doing is adjusting the crimp ONLY now. How much crimp (yes you want a roll-crimp) you apply is your choice. If you're shooting powder puff loads, you barely want any visible crimp at all. Just a very slight roll of the brass into the cannelure of the bullet. If you're shooting heavy loads, you want a "substantial" crimp. These are subjective. If you have some factory loads you might want to compare the "look" of your crimp to those.

Anyway, now you can continue to screw the body of the die down (very small increments - maybe 1/8 of a turn at most) until you get the desired amount of crimping. Screw the lockring down and your crimp setting is complete.

Now, with the press at the top, simply screw the seating plug down until you feel it encounter resistance as it contacts the top of the bullet. Now you have both the crimp and the seating length set. From here on you don't have to adjust anything unless you decide you want to change the seating depth or amount of crimp later on. If so, you have to go through it again. After a time or two it becomes second nature to adjust. It might be useful to you to actually take the seating plug completely out and examine the workings of this die. It will make more sense to you then.
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Old June 14, 2010, 05:23 PM   #11
TATER
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removed, doodle's got it covered.

You Really Really need to
Get a reloading manual....Not load data but a MANUAL It will give meaning to everything..
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Old June 14, 2010, 05:30 PM   #12
zxcvbob
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The short version, in case the previous sets of instructions are too detailed to follow:
  1. Adjust the bullet seating depth first, with the die screwed out far enough that it doesn't try to crimp (yet).
  2. Back off the bullet seater to get it out of the way.
  3. Screw down the die until it crimps that test cartridge the way you like it.
  4. Tighten the lock nut so the die doesn't move.
  5. Screw the bullet seater back down until it is tight against your test bullet.
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Old June 14, 2010, 06:58 PM   #13
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Again no doubt get some manuals. The more the better. I try to have one for the round I am going to use, and there are a few other good ones in general. Then get with a friend or someone who is already into it. Take your time, and get a good set up. Ask lots of questions. Like they say there is no dumb question except the one you dont ask. It is a great clean hobby. Good luck, keep it safe, and have fun!
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Old June 14, 2010, 08:04 PM   #14
totaldla
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I don't see the need for manuals anymore if a fellow has an internet connection. Everything this fellow asked is explained in the Lee instructions I get with each set of dies. Same for RCBS dies.

And of course there's plenty of help from forums.....
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Old June 14, 2010, 10:27 PM   #15
Plaz
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I have a Hornady, Lyman and Sierra manuals but I don't find the procedures as told by you folks in this forum. Thank you all very much. I will take these recommendations to my press and let you know how I make out. I still think the Hornady procedures are incorrect and messing me up.
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Old June 15, 2010, 01:34 AM   #16
Plaz
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Well, I used the procedures provided on this forum and I was able to set up the seater/crimp die satisfactorily.

However, I can't figure out how to accomplish the seating and crimp sequences with my Hornady LNL progressive press without having to reset seating and crimping all over again for each bullet as it comes around. Does this mean that I cannot use this combination die with a progressive press?
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Old June 15, 2010, 02:34 PM   #17
TATER
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Why would you possibly need to reset each time???
What is happening to the next round?
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Old June 15, 2010, 10:19 PM   #18
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Quote:
However, I can't figure out how to accomplish the seating and crimp sequences with my Hornady LNL progressive press without having to reset seating and crimping all over again for each bullet as it comes around. Does this mean that I cannot use this combination die with a progressive press?
The previous posts explained it pretty thoroughly. As you can't easily set both seating depth and crimp at the same time, you set each one up separately so they don't fight each other. Then you adjust the seating depth stem to match the new die position you set for desired crimp, just touching the previously seated bullet.

Now the combination seat/crimp die is set for use. You certainly don't do this for each bullet, even in a single stage press. It will produce repeatable results with consistent bullet length and case length.

As many loads for .44 Mag involve slower powders, you will encounter recommendations for a firm roll crimp. This both promotes proper ignition and resists bullet pull from recoil.

Regardless of the type of die used, you will probably want to trim your cases to a consistent length so you get consistent crimps. However, .44 Mag generally doesn't stretch during firing / resizing, so you probably won't have to trim more than initially.

If you just use one bullet type to reload, things will probably work fine. If you have a few different bullets you use, however, you may find setting up the combination seat/crimp die to be a bit of a hassle. There are die sets which perform these operations in separate steps and many find these much easier to use.

+1 to reloading manuals, despite what may be available on the Internet. The manuals provide the theory and practices of safe reloading all in one spot. Yes, you could probably spend some time and compile the same info from Internet research, but I doubt it would be as concise or easy to read.

I've learned quite a bit from the various shooting / reloading forums in the last few years, but I always go back to the manuals for the basics.
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Old June 16, 2010, 01:57 AM   #19
Plaz
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Question #1 : Assume the seating and crimp are properly setup using my Hornady seater/crimp die for my 44 mag cartridges. When my case arrives at the last station of my Hornady LNL press and I raise the ram to seat the new bullet, setting the cartridge length, is the roll crimp acheived at the same time with the same stroke of the ram?

Question #2 : Is it true that the RCBS seater/crimp 44 mag die does accomplish both seating and roll crimp with the same stroke of the ram?

RCBS Notes:
A Bullet Seater is used to push (seat) the bullet down into the case to a specific depth and is found in the Seating die.

As the seater pushes the bullet into the case, the shoulder of the die crimps the case against the bullet.
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Old June 16, 2010, 02:08 AM   #20
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Question #1 - Yes, they are accomplished by the same stroke.

Question #2 - Hornady, RCBS, doesn't matter. If it is a combination seater/crimp die, both are accomplished by the same die.

However, to further complicate the picture, some folks use combination dies as seating dies only, followed by a dedicated crimp die for either taper crimp or roll crimp in another station. Or another operation, if using a single-stage press. To achieve this, they just leave the die body backed out far enough that it doesn't accomplish a crimp. Only the seater function is used.

Dillon recommends this, for example, as they believe better results are achieved by avoiding the conflicting actions in the same die. (The seating/crimp die has to crimp as the bullet is being seated, which means it is moving. With a separate crimp die, the bullet is stationary.)
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Old June 16, 2010, 05:28 AM   #21
Plaz
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I am so sorry that I didn't interpret the recommendations properly. I didn't realize that seating and crimping occurred at the same time. That clears it up for me. I thank you all so much for youir help and patience. This die will be fantastic for me in that it will permit me to use my powder cop die while creating an acceptable cartridge.

This forum is terrific. Thank you all so much.
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Old June 16, 2010, 10:05 AM   #22
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I maybe wrong But, I’m left with the feeling that you still can’t picture in your mind
How it works................
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Old June 16, 2010, 11:30 AM   #23
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Have you bought a book? Get one of the well known reloading manuals and read all the instructions. Reloading is serious business. Done wrong can be very dangerous. Done right, it will expand your hobby and shooting enjoyment. Read the books and learn the right way before doing anything else.
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Old June 16, 2010, 12:27 PM   #24
Plaz
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I have the Hornady book, Sierra book and Lyman book. I do read the books. I have taken the die apart and took a quick look at the parts but I should spend more time studying how the die works.
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Old June 16, 2010, 01:18 PM   #25
Plaz
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Is this a pogtential problem?

I used a Lee 429 diameter mold to cast my bullets which was all I had at the time. The bullets slip right into the cases without need for flaring the cases. I put the bullets in the cases and seat and crimp them with my seater/crimp die.

I am concerned about the resulting cartridge. Is it safe to use these cartridges?

Last edited by Plaz; June 17, 2010 at 06:12 PM. Reason: Add title
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