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Old August 4, 2017, 08:43 AM   #1
libiglou
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my 9mm dilemma

Long story short. Loaded up 250 rnds of 9mm 124 gr jhp last week, went to the range yesterday with my p30 and bhp and sure enough several rounds in each magazine would not fully chamber. When I got home I ran several boxes through my wilson gauge and sure enough 3/4 of them were out of spec(in other words the case was not fully resized) I guess my resizing die shifted during the resizing process . So now what to do? I have 150 rounds that I can pull the bullets but man that is going to take some time. I was thinking of running the loaded rounds through the resizer die with the decapper pin removed to resize the case back to spec. I dont see anything making contact with the primer from a safety stand point. What do you guys think?
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Old August 4, 2017, 08:57 AM   #2
74A95
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That might be a problem since the size die normally 'undersizes' the case.

You could consider purchasing a Lee Factory Crimp die. It sizes loaded rounds to fit into the chamber.

https://www.midwayusa.com/product/10...-die-9mm-luger

The other best option is the pull the bullets, then run the cases through your sizer with the decapping stem removed, reflare, reload.
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Old August 4, 2017, 11:07 AM   #3
hdwhit
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The Lee Factory Crimp die conducts a post-assembly re-sizing operation. Before you go to that point, let's look at your reloading components and procedures to make sure the Lee die is necessary.

When you say that 3/4 of the rounds not fit in the Wilson gauge, where were they hanging up? That is, were they almost fully in and the case mouth hung up on something while there was still space around the case head, or did the case mouth have space around it and it was binding near the head?

What diameter are the bullets you are using? Jacketed bullets should be 0.355 inch in diameter, but there are many out there that are closer to 0.356 and that can cause a problem. If you don't have calipers or a micrometer to measure the bullets, you need to get one. A decent digital caliper can be bought on Amazon for under $20.

Whose dies are you using?

When the case mouth is flared to accept the bullet, it should be flared just enough so that the bullet will sit atop the mouth of the case and not crush the case when the bullet is seated. If your case mouth is expanded like a pilgrim's blunderbus, it is too much and may be source of the problem.

I started reloading 9mm using Lee dies. I was never able to get the expander adjusted to where it would allow the bullets to be seated but not crush the case and I eventually just got a set of RCBS dies where the expander stem is different and I have had no problems since and I haven't needed a Lee Factory Crimp die.

When the bullet is seated, the die should be adjusted so that the crimping shoulder just removes the expansion of the case mouth. But because 9mm headspaces on the mouth some people may not be crimping enough. Examine the cases carefully and see if there is still a hint of expansion at the mouth - particularly if you were failing the Wilson gauge at the case mouth. If this is the problem, you don't need to disassemble your loaded rounds, just turn down the seater die about 1/8 to 1/4 turn (remember to turn the seater stem back out by the same amount so you don't seat the bullets further in) and see if a little more crimp solves the problem.

If not, then you can try pulling the bullets from your out of spec loads and re-running them through the reloading process. Before you do this, check the instructions that came with the dies and make sure they are installed and adjusted as per the manufacturer's recommendation. And on 9mm where the expansion of the case is done separately from decapping, you can remove the deapping pin and reprocess your primed cases.

If none of this helps, then you are probably a candidate for a Lee Factory Crimp die.
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Old August 4, 2017, 11:29 AM   #4
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I run all .40's through my Lee Factory crimp die with Bulge Buster as a last step because a high percentage of them need it.

I check my 9's for easy chambering and run the few of those that are too fat through the 9mm Lee Factory crimp die with Bulge Buster as well.

It doesn't take long and is essential to me.
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Old August 4, 2017, 02:08 PM   #5
libiglou
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I'm already using the lee die. The problem is at the bottom of the case. When I resized them I only went 3/4 of the way down so there is a slight bulge at the bottom. I had the same issue with 10mm loads several years ago but I caught it in time. I readjusted my sizing die and the problem went away. Here I'm stuck with alot of loaded ammo and its time consuming to pull bullets on appox 150 rounds of ammo.
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Old August 4, 2017, 03:05 PM   #6
ausrobbo
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Quote:
Originally Posted by libiglou View Post
I'm already using the lee die. The problem is at the bottom of the case. When I resized them I only went 3/4 of the way down so there is a slight bulge at the bottom. I had the same issue with 10mm loads several years ago but I caught it in time. I readjusted my sizing die and the problem went away. Here I'm stuck with alot of loaded ammo and its time consuming to pull bullets on appox 150 rounds of ammo.


For 150 rounds....it would be hard not to just write them off.
I don't reuse powder from pulled bullets (contaminated powder in small loads like 9mm worries me). The bullets may or may not be scraped or marred, depends on how you pull them - and that's the only thing to save.
Is the brass worth the trouble? I doubt it.
I've resized primed cases, but is $5 of primers worth your eyesight and time?

I used to stress about every mistake round, but now I toss em.


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Old August 4, 2017, 04:34 PM   #7
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Are you sure resizing is the problem ? If so try resizing one or two and see if that solves it. The reason I ask is the problem I have had with the new modern guns is they have little or no throat , the bullet , especially long 147 grain ones run into rifling and keep the round from seating. You may need to seat the bullet a little deeper to get them to chamber. I had to do this on a few boxes before I got the depth correct for three different recently made 9 mm's . Oddly enough a WWII era Walther P-38 with a nice throat and generous wartime tolerances will chamber anything...even 158 grain cast SWC's ! The new ones.....forget it !
Gary
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Old August 4, 2017, 04:50 PM   #8
libiglou
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ausrobbo

You might be on to something. I was just wondering the same thing. Why spend hours trying to save a few bucks, Fix the problem and move on Ill put the rounds in a ziplock bag with a label describing the problem and make it a winter project. Thanks for everyones feedback
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Old August 5, 2017, 07:02 AM   #9
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Good plan on starting over. I would also suggest doing the plunk test.
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Old August 5, 2017, 07:55 AM   #10
jerryd
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Go to EGW guns and order the under sized 9mm sizing die for 29.90 problem solved! I have one for 9mm and 45 acp never have that problem again.
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Old August 5, 2017, 08:39 AM   #11
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If you resize the cases the brass will spring back a little and the lead inside the bullet will not. This results in loose bullets that will probably fall out. The bullets will be useless at this point because they are undersized but everything else is reuseable.

The most important thing to do is figure out where the problem is located in the reloading process. Next time your going though the steps stop after each step and see if the rounds chamber.

Personally I don't like undersized dies. I use lead bullets with oversized diameters and undersized dies will more likely result in undersized bullets. I'd rather have a rounds that is snug in the chamber versus a round that is loose in the chamber. It might take an extra minute or 2 to get your dies set up correctly but taking the time to do it right is worth it in my mind.
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Old August 5, 2017, 10:45 AM   #12
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Take the barrel off your gun and check the rounds in the barrel.

The Barrel is accurate for the gun vs the gauge.

That at least gets you use of the usable rounds.


Quote:
Good plan on starting over. I would also suggest doing the plunk test.
Plunk test, using the barrel as a check.
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Old August 5, 2017, 11:18 AM   #13
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I built a 1911 45 ACP, I tested it with new, factory, over the counter and military surplus ammo, I was impressed, ammo flew through the pistol and then there is always an 'and then moment; I decided I would reloader the fired cases.

If my reloades had the appearance the case swallowed a bullet the case would not feed. I am sure there are a few reloaders that have seen snakes that swallowed something that caused bumps in the body of the snake. I had cases with bullet lines, it did not take me long to decide I had to have ammo that looked like factor, over the counter, new or surplus ammo with out bullet lines so I measured all of the reloads for diameter, I sized all of the cases with bullet lines or cases that looked like they swallowed a bullet with a carbide sizing die. I did not full length size the cases I sized just enough of the case to remove the bullet line, I went back to the range and like magic, all of the sized ammo flew through the pistol like the ammo was new, over the counter, factory ammo.

I went to the range with a very disciplined reloader, he informed me I did not know how to reloade for the 45 ACP, but that was not a problem because he was going to furnish all of the ammo. Nothing he loaded would fly through my pistol, he offered ammo to every shooter with a 45 ACP, they loved his ammo. To shorten the story I left the range and headed off to my press, I sized his ammo with my carbide die, then returned to the range and fired his reloades, I was impressed because his ammo flew through my pistol.

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Old August 5, 2017, 11:37 AM   #14
Remow2112
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Most likely.

The only time I have encountered this I had not turned the resizing die down far enough. I try very hard to get the resizing die flush with the case holder. (I use a Dillon 550)

Dan...
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Old August 5, 2017, 03:23 PM   #15
Don Fischer
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Quote:
Originally Posted by libiglou View Post
I'm already using the lee die. The problem is at the bottom of the case. When I resized them I only went 3/4 of the way down so there is a slight bulge at the bottom. I had the same issue with 10mm loads several years ago but I caught it in time. I readjusted my sizing die and the problem went away. Here I'm stuck with alot of loaded ammo and its time consuming to pull bullets on appox 150 rounds of ammo.
By the time your done pulling and resizing all those you'll have a lesson well learned! :-) I don't know one thing about the Lee Factory Crimp die but for $20 I'd give it a try!
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Old August 5, 2017, 04:55 PM   #16
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First off, I only shoot my home cast lead bullets in all my handguns. With the 9MM, I was shooting three different handguns, a Ruger P85, Taurus PT99 and an S&W 6906. Bullets fed just fine in the 6906 and Ruger but would just barely chamber in the Taurus. I slight nudge with my thumb would take care of the hangup. I seated the bullet ever so slightly deeper and they fed just fine.
A while back I visited a friend in Albuquerque who had the same problem I did. had him seat a few dummy round to try, then seat slightly deeper. Cured his problem. Like someone said, use the gun's barrel as the testing tool for the load.
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Old August 5, 2017, 08:30 PM   #17
res45
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Your barrel is your best gauge. Ammo loaded that passes the plunk test in your barrel will always fit your gun regardless of what the case guage says. All 9mm chambers are not the same some have more free bore than others as many have found out by just adjusting the bullet seating depth an many issues go away.
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Old August 6, 2017, 06:55 PM   #18
RC20
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I have the Wilson gauge. Real waste of money.

about 80% of my found show bad in that gauge.

Almost 100% fit fine in the pistol.

I do sometime use e it as I know that what it says bad work, its only if I am uncertain about one that I drop in in the Wilson, then if its up further than what is normal do I take it apart.

Not a clue why, one brand of brass is fine in the Wilson, others, not so much, gun shoots them flawlessly regardless.
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Old August 6, 2017, 07:05 PM   #19
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I've been down this road as well. The Factor Crimp die is the easiest answer and will most likely resolve the issue. I'm hoping you have the 4 die set. If not, I would suggest putting the 150 rounds aside and over time, take them apart, resize and re-assemble.

As for your Wilson gauge, sorry but the barrel is the best tool you could possibly ask for.

Good luck. Be patient and safe.
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Old August 7, 2017, 02:15 AM   #20
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The solution to chambering problems is to determine the cause:
Take the barrel out of the gun. Drop rounds in until you find one that won't chamber. Take that round and "paint" the bullet and case black with Magic Marker or other marker. Drop round in barrel (or gage) and rotate it back-and-forth a few times.
Remove and inspect the round:
1) Scratches in the ink on bullet--COL is too long
2) Scratches in the ink on edge of the case mouth--insufficient crimp
3) Scratches in the ink just below the case mouth--too much crimp, you're crushing the case
4) Scratches in the ink on case at base of bullet--bullet seated crooked due to insufficient case expansion (not case mouth flare) or improper seating stem fit
5) Scratches in the ink on case just above extractor groove--case bulge not removed during sizing. May need a bulge buster.

If 5 is the problem, you really have two choices: break them all down or get a Lee FCD, remove the crimp guts, and run the rounds through it; however, if that doesn't work (often, the bulge rides down the case until the die hits the shell holder and you are left with the bulge or a raised ridge), you'll have to just tear them down.
Hornady and Lee sizing dies go down a case the furthest and Dillon go down the least.
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Old August 8, 2017, 02:49 PM   #21
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Please post a good quality photo of the rounds and measurements such as overall length and case mouth. Otherwise, everyone is just guessing.
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Old August 10, 2017, 11:16 PM   #22
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I have three words of advice for you

Kinetic
Bullet
Puller
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Old August 11, 2017, 05:38 AM   #23
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FWIW I have one gauge many fail, two that they do not fail. They all work in my 9s so I fret less. I carry reloads in my back-up mag, those have to pass the tightest gauge. I have fussed for over a month now and cannot change the results. Range brass, 650, Dillon dies.

I put a col-let? puller on my old single stage. I will never be $ ahead but it is soooo much better than wacking the floor. I just set it up with whatever I am loading at the moment.
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Old August 11, 2017, 11:07 AM   #24
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Quote:
I put a col-let? puller on my old single stage. I will never be $ ahead but it is soooo much better than wacking the floor.
If it works...

My experience, over a couple of decades, with the RCBS collet puller was not.. entirely satisfactory. I found that very often, I could not tighten the collet enough, by hand, to keep the bullet from slipping out.

I would have to use a wrench as a cheater bar or wack the collet handle with a hammer to get the collet tight enough to hold the bullet so the press could pull the case off it. And, then, repeat the process in reverse to get the collet to release the bullet.

And it was not possible for me to pull lead bullets with the collet puller without distorting them to a degree they were only good for going back into the casting pot. If the collet works for you, fine. For me, it seldom worked "right".
(and yes it was the same story with different calibers) My own reloads pulled fairly easily. Factory, military, and unknown origin almost never did. So it was tighten by hand, then wack it to make it tighter, and try to pull. Sometimes the wacking didn't get it tight enough, and the bullet still slipped out. Then I would have to wack it to loosen it enough to start over, and wack it more to get it even tighter on the second (or sometimes 3rd) try.

Then, one day, basically on impulse, because I saw it in the store and the price wasn't all that much, I bought the Lyman "orange hammer". I figured it couldn't work WORSE than the collet puller in my press.

For me, the difference was night and freakin' day!!! It pulled EVERYTHING, most of the time in 3-6 wacks, NONE of the bullets were distorted in any way, including lead ones. The very smallest bullets (.22cal) would sometimes take a few more wacks, because they are the lightest and so have the least inertia.

I was able to pull down 400 rnds of bad milsurp 7.62x51 NATO with less time and effort than it would have taken me using the press mounted collet!

For best results, you have to know how to swing the hammer. It doesn't have to be swung hard, but it does need to be swung fast, and it needs to stop fast. Stopping "fast" means impacting on a hard surface. "Hard" is a relative term, and in the is case means what the hammer thinks is hard, not what you and I do.

Your floor is NOT a hard surface. Wood is not a hard surface. CONCRETE is NOT a hard surface (to the hammer). Very hard to our soft bodies, but they have enough "give" in them so the hammer does not work at peak efficiency.

IRON & steel are hard to the hammer. What I found worked the best for me was wacking the hammer on the top of my wood stove (during the summer, no fire in the stove!!!). Because of my personal experiences, I will recommend the hammer over the collet, every time.

Your experience might be different, might be the complete opposite. If so, fine, go with what works best, for you. For me, I'll take the hammer, though it took me decades to figure out that I ought to try it, when I finally did, I was very pleasantly surprised that it worked better (for me) than I ever imagined it would.
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