September 28, 2009, 12:47 AM | #1 |
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Lead removal
I have been scrubbing and wiping the barrel of my original remington and it seems there must still be plenty more to remove-
What are ya'll using? I was using carbon 2000 from the Slip people Mark |
September 28, 2009, 06:55 AM | #2 |
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How long are you letting it soak? Your barrel must be pretty well pitted to even be getting leaded.
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September 28, 2009, 09:03 AM | #3 |
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Mark have you tried a Lewis lead remover? Basically a very fine mesh steel screen you pull through the barrel.
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September 28, 2009, 10:46 AM | #4 |
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I might not be letting it soak for very long- perhaps 3-5 minutes then I hit it with 10 strokes from a SS tornado brush- something I have never done before except rarely on a shotgun to remove bits of plastic from the wads.
Yes it has some pitting but after the first 10 trys the rifling sure is showing up better. I mean its 145 years old and don't expect it to be pristine just want it clean. If I can find some Lewis I will give it a whirl. I have the carbon Cutter, Hoppes and Sweets but its mainly for copper removal and most of all I do not want to do any harm to the remaining blue finish. |
September 28, 2009, 12:50 PM | #5 |
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I have heard that letting Kano Kroil soak into the barrel will lift the lead right out. I'm going to order some and try it out.
I also have used a "Lead Free" cloth. It is a cloth impregnated with a thick yellow paste. I use it mostly to clean carbon blacking from stainless steel revolver cylinder faces. It will remove blue finish if applied. I have used it to remove lead from a couple of old timer bores. It works very fast and well. Just keep it away from the blued exterior, and clean out thoroughly with bore cleaner/CLP.
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September 28, 2009, 01:25 PM | #6 |
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There should be no lead in the barrel of a black powder pistol unless it has been shot with smokeless powder. You should try the tried and true hot water and soap. Get the water very hot, add a little soap and put the gun, minus the wood, in the hot water. Let her sit for a while and then attack the fouling.
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September 28, 2009, 04:15 PM | #7 |
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Blue Wonder
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September 28, 2009, 04:18 PM | #8 |
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What Nos Said +1
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September 29, 2009, 07:38 AM | #9 | |
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Quote:
Try letting it soak longer. When I'm using Hoppe's on my high powers for copper build up I let it soak for an hour or so. |
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September 29, 2009, 10:04 AM | #10 |
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I use a heavy patch..denim etc, and a dowel.. use a mallet to drive as tight as a patch as possible down the barrel...this will remove lead quite well.
You can get leading with about anything at any velocity... rubbing a lead ball on anything, at any speed..you will see that a mark, from lead left behind, will be made... I would think that 150 year old lead would be mosly oxsidized by now??
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September 29, 2009, 10:18 AM | #11 |
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I worry about using a stainless turbo brush on that barrel. The old metals were a lot softer than current. You could damage the barrel with that brush.
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September 29, 2009, 07:06 PM | #12 |
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robhof
I have the Lewis and the screens are bronze. Don't use steel on any rifled barrel and I wouldn't even use it on a shotgun.
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