Selector switch on RDIAS host

Machineguntony · July 21, 2014, 09:32 PM

Gentlemen, if I may ask you for your expertise, please.

I was searching for an RDIAS host, as I have a pair incoming. I do not possess them yet, and I have never used an RDIAS, so I am unsure of various issues. I am a bit confused about how the selector switch works on a semi auto to auto host. My understanding is that an RDIAS turns a semi auto AR into a full auto.

But on most semi autos, there is either no marking or ability to turn the selector switch to the full auto position.

I have included two photos of two of my guns, to clarify my question. The top photo is a photo of one of my M16s. Notice that the switch can be turned to point at the three o'clock position to activate full auto.

The bottom photo shows one of my semi autos. Notice that the switch is blocked from going to the three o'clock position. Do I have to mill away the piece of metal that blocks the switch from turning to three o'clock?

Do most semi autos block the selector switch like this? If you have a semi auto that doe NOT have the metal piece blocking the 3 o'clock, but it has no mark for full auto, can you still turn the switch to the 3 o'clock (this is the only semi auto rifle AR that I own).

If I get an M16 fire control group, will the M16 FCG allow me to then turn the switch to three o'clock and activate full auto, if I mill away the blocking piece of metal?

Sharkbite · July 21, 2014, 10:05 PM

I can see your confusion

My ARs dont have a block on the outside of the lower to prevent rotation past the 12o-clock position (fire). The selector lever itself will not go past that point.

If you plan on using that lower with your sear you will need to remove that stop. Me id just buy another lower without that silly stop

gyvel · July 21, 2014, 10:19 PM

Rather than mill off the stop on the lower, I always modify the lesser of two parts. In this case, obtain a three position selector switch and merely file or cut out a "tunnel" in the thumb paddle portion of the switch to allow it to travel over the receiver stop. (Or, if you want to look at it this opposite way, to allow the stop to pass through the "tunnel.")

By doing this, you won't have altered the more expensive of the two parts, i.e. the receiver.

July 21, 2014, 09:32 PM	#1
Machineguntony Senior Member Join Date: June 22, 2013 Posts: 1,277	Selector switch on RDIAS host Gentlemen, if I may ask you for your expertise, please. I was searching for an RDIAS host, as I have a pair incoming. I do not possess them yet, and I have never used an RDIAS, so I am unsure of various issues. I am a bit confused about how the selector switch works on a semi auto to auto host. My understanding is that an RDIAS turns a semi auto AR into a full auto. But on most semi autos, there is either no marking or ability to turn the selector switch to the full auto position. I have included two photos of two of my guns, to clarify my question. The top photo is a photo of one of my M16s. Notice that the switch can be turned to point at the three o'clock position to activate full auto. The bottom photo shows one of my semi autos. Notice that the switch is blocked from going to the three o'clock position. Do I have to mill away the piece of metal that blocks the switch from turning to three o'clock? Do most semi autos block the selector switch like this? If you have a semi auto that doe NOT have the metal piece blocking the 3 o'clock, but it has no mark for full auto, can you still turn the switch to the 3 o'clock (this is the only semi auto rifle AR that I own). If I get an M16 fire control group, will the M16 FCG allow me to then turn the switch to three o'clock and activate full auto, if I mill away the blocking piece of metal? __________________ Sent from Motorola DynaTac 8000x

July 21, 2014, 10:05 PM	#2
Sharkbite Senior Member Join Date: November 4, 2013 Location: Western slope of Colorado Posts: 3,679	I can see your confusion My ARs dont have a block on the outside of the lower to prevent rotation past the 12o-clock position (fire). The selector lever itself will not go past that point. If you plan on using that lower with your sear you will need to remove that stop. Me id just buy another lower without that silly stop

July 21, 2014, 10:19 PM	#3
gyvel Senior Member Join Date: August 30, 2009 Location: Northern AZ Posts: 7,172	Rather than mill off the stop on the lower, I always modify the lesser of two parts. In this case, obtain a three position selector switch and merely file or cut out a "tunnel" in the thumb paddle portion of the switch to allow it to travel over the receiver stop. (Or, if you want to look at it this opposite way, to allow the stop to pass through the "tunnel.") By doing this, you won't have altered the more expensive of the two parts, i.e. the receiver.