Receiver Opinions Please

[CowTowner]

Well, mine's done.
Hope everyone else has their project on this action turn out as well as I feel this one has.


Thanks to all for the input and knowledge transfer.
And a special thanks to Clark for the scope bases.

[CowTowner]

Well, no accounting for my rifle skills as a marksman. It appears the new toy likes them fast (2900+ fps). The slower loads didn't come close to grouping as well as these. The others were Remington Core-Lokt 200 grain (THE most expensive of the 4 tested) and Federal Fusion 200 grain.


Yes, that was 4 rounds and all 4 hit the target. Don't ask me how I did it though.



I think the build can be considered a success! Now I gotta figure out how to get my handloads to perform like the factory loads. On to the loading bench!

[FrankenMauser]

Congrats on the finished rifle (I must have missed your post last month).

It looks like the barrel has some potential.


Mine is still on the back burner. I have a couple higher priorities that need my attention right now. Plus... I still haven't taken the barrel in to get the threads fixed, or done so much as look around for a stock (other than the casual glace at the local gun shops).

I can't work on anything right now, anyway. The warm weather makes the humidity in my basement skyrocket. Anything I touch instantly rusts.

[Clark]

Cowtower,
Thanks for the range report.

Pardon me if I asked already, where did you get the stock?
Please don't say you sent a pattern to a stockmaker

[CowTowner]

Clark, the stock is a Boyd's walnut with the laser Fleur de'Lis Texture checkering. I also had them install a Decelerator Pad.

[Clark]

Cowtowner,
Thanks.
I went to that site, and it got expensive with the stock you chose and all the options.

I ordered (5) pro varmint stocks:
1903 Turkish Mauser
98 Mauser
Rem 700 long
Mosin Nagant
Sav 110 long

I already have a pro varmint [tacticool name went away] in Sav 110 short.

i have a plan to make heavy generic test stock for the Dumoulin receivers when I barrel them. After I shoot a small group with a 40X scope and a heavy stock, there will not be as many possible excuses when the dog does not hunt.

[CowTowner]

I did neglect to include that the stock is a Prairie Hunter model. I went with the higher comb due to the medium rings used so the bolt handle was clear of the scope.
Now I see they are offering adjustable combs. Wish they had those when I replaced my sporterized No.4 Mk.1 stock.

[FrankenMauser]

After seeing the updates here, I spent some time (a lot of time) digging around and ended up ordering a stock last night.

Just a basic piece of Maple with a 98 large ring inlet. I am not a huge fan of the style - high comb English Express - but the price that I paid was ridiculous (low, way low) because there is a little pocket of sap on the fore-end. Since I actually like a few defects, here and there, it's a win-win.

I figure there should be enough wood left on the 'express' side panels for me to do a little reshaping for more of an American look with a shadow-line cheek piece. If not... I'll dress them appropriately and just roll with it.

I really wanted to go for a Mannlicher-style build (and came across some fantastic black walnut stocks), but I had to bite the bullet and admit that I just don't have the skill for it, yet. Maybe on the next build.

Regardless... It'll be really nice to be working with a "soft" wood. I've been working with Knotty Screwbean Mesquite for the last year, and it's a beast. Hard. Unpredictable. Hard. Porous. Did I mention, hard? (Notably harder than even ebony.)


Terrible picture, but it's all I have to share for now:



Now, I really need to get this barrel off to a 'smith to get the threads fixed. That's the only thing holding me back, besides humidity.

[Clark]

FrankenMauser,
I built a 300 pound "modern work bench" per the Lee Valley plans from Rockhard Maple.
I chopped all the mortice joints with Stanley paring chisels.
That was 31 years ago, and my hands STILL hurt.

[FrankenMauser]

I can definitely identify with that right now.
My hands are beaten, battered, raw, aching, and swollen like footballs.

I bought a "junk" car yesterday and had to spend about 4 hours swapping a 1100+ CCA battery between my crappy van (for charging) and the junk car -- using the starter and manual transmission to park the non-running car where I needed it.

And then, when I went to see if the only key I have for the car actually matched the door locks, the tumbler locked up solid and wouldn't release the stupid thing.

Disassembling and reassembling that door required a lot more 'aggression' than anticipated, and my hands aren't happy about it.

No work in the gun room today...

[Clark]

I have found some sharp edges on the Dumoulin Mauser receiver and have got a plan for how to fix them.

Afterwards I will put some of the original Herter's Belgian Blue formula.

That is my plan. What could go wrong?

[FrankenMauser]

Just don't let it get away from you and end up being a Mauser with the "carry melt" look.

[tobnpr]

I buy generic "Cratex" wheels (tired of paying for the name) for the Dremel in quantity from a supplier on Ebay, they work great for small or "tight" areas. Takes off sharp edges, melds grinding marks (and like FrankenMauser said, will give you the "melt" look if you're not careful).

I was surprised at the large selection of both the compound they can be made from- as well as the grit size. I didn't know they're widely used by dentists...

[Clark]

I forgot about Cratex. A technician [electronic, not dental] gave me some rather than throw it out.

[Dixie Gunsmithing]

The generic Cratex seems to be just as good, if not better. The experience I've had with the Cratex brand, is that they wear away very quickly. For the cost, and the quick wear, I imagine Cratex makes a fortune.

I've bought a lot of this stuff from eBay, as much is listed by jeweler suppliers. For a Gunsmith, one ought to look over the Jeweler's tools, as they can be used for Gunsmithing, and some are not stocked by Brownell's.

[CowTowner]

I'm looking forward to seeing the finished product, Clark.
I didn't notice the same amount of sharp points on my receiver. At least not to the point where I felt it necessary to ease the edges.

[tarheelpwr]

Hi - Thanks for all all the input. Would those actions be appropriate for a 404 Jeff build? Or, would I be money ahead to just start out with a CZ 500 mag action from Brownells and take the easy way out?

I have no tooling or machines, so I'd be paying for any mods that needed done to the action. What all would they be?

Open up bolt face
Adjust feed ramps
?

[CowTowner]

tarheelpwr, were I in your shoes, I'd print the web page displaying the receiver and take it to my local smithy.
Ask him/her to look at it and give you a professional opinion. That way you can also get a ballpark quote for the cost of the work involved to modify to your desires.

[FrankenMauser]

tarheel, it is my (amateur) opinion that you'd be better off starting with a magnum-length action.

With a ".375 H&H" CZ receiver....
The bolt face should already be over 0.500" (less metal to remove and less time spent on the extractor).
The COAL of .404 Jeffery won't be an issue.
The feed ramps are likely to require less (if any) work.
And the magazine feed lips / guide rails should require less work (if any).

The ".416 Rigby" CZ receiver would actually require the bolt face to be bushed smaller, and the extractor would need to have metal added or be replaced entirely. But, I believe that it would, otherwise, require less modification for .404 Jeffery than the ".375" receiver.


There's really no guarantee of anything, with any receiver, though. Each piece of metal is its own world. They're all unique.

[FrankenMauser]

I took a two "small jobs" to my preferred gunsmith last weekend, and it turned out to be a combination that really grabbed his attention (.475 Tremor needing a muzzle brake pinned, and the Dumoulin action). So, his backlog of 6-8 weeks worked out to a turnaround time of 4 days, for me. ...Because he kept fondling them with intrigue, every time he picked them up off of the bench to put them in the safe. But, they never made it. On Monday, he went right to work, instead.

When he called me Wednesday, I asked him to chop the Dumoulin's barrel, even if I had to wait several weeks. That took another day. So, I picked everything back up today.

The barrel, as it turned out, had threads that were 55 degree Whitworth, but 0.009" oversized. He turned the diameter down, chased the threads, and it threaded into the receiver like butter.
I don't think I've mentioned it before, but this barrel is one of the Sarco "Belgian" .270 Win barrels that they had for $75 or $100. I was a little leery of the price and claims, but the bore looked fantastic and slugged perfectly when it arrived. So, I'm giving it a shot.

And that puts me at:
Stock inletting.

I have everything that I need for this build.
What I don't have are some options:
1. Butt pad. As is, I could make a butt plate from the brass that I used for my .444 Marlin project. But, I'd rather not. It doesn't fit the style of the build.

2. Express sights. I really want express sights, but they don't fit with the intended use of this rifle (even though they do fit the style). So, I'm hoping I can find another project to obsess about, in regards to the 'express' concept.

3. Grip cap and/or fore-end tip. I don't think this stock will look right without a contrasting fore-end tip, and a grip cap will round out the look. But the wood that I ordered isn't what I expected, and just isn't right for the job. So, I'm trying to find something that I can use on more than just this Maple stock, in order to create my own 'signature look' for the grip cap and tip. It's something my grandfather always used to do (with dark, marbled rosewood and an inlaid white diamond). I want to keep with the tradition, but I want this to be mine ... and a little more modern.


I know you want some gunporn, so I'll post a photo next chance I get when there's natural light available. ...But it probably won't be this weekend.

[CowTowner]

As far as the tip and cap goes, why not cherry?
It can be almost black to a rose color and both will show grain depending on the treatment.
Just my 2 cents.

[FrankenMauser]

I'm not much of a fan of Cherry. Plus, most Cherry woods are fairly soft, which isn't what you want for a tip or grip cap. (650-900 Janka hardness, versus 1,150-1,600 for Walnut and Maple varieties suitable for stock making.)

I'll figure it out eventually.

[Dixie Gunsmithing]

FrankenMauser, Take a look at Rosewood. They make chunks big enough, and I think you can get them from Woodcraft. They have other exotic woods, and some are pretty tough.

http://www.woodcraft.com/category/SU...ing-stock.aspx

[FrankenMauser]

I appreciate the help, but I generally don't like Rosewood, either.
Right now, I'm trying to track down some Coolibah in a size that's useful to me (most places only have pen blanks), and from a seller that will let me pick the specific piece that I want.
I'm considering many other things, as well; but Jobillo and Jicarillo are close to the top of the list right now.

[CowTowner]

Just another thought to throw at the fan
http://shop.arizonaironwood.com/