How do ou polish the barrel (hood?)

Shorts · May 3, 2005, 12:06 AM

I'd like to polish the barrel of our SA GI, just for asthetics. I was wondering what's necessary as far as compound and tools. Or is this something I should/shouldn't do that would affect function?

Here's a pic representing:

Wildalaska · May 3, 2005, 01:20 AM

1. Clamp barrel in vise, work it like your shining a shoe with wet 600 paper..or

2. Take to gunsmith, give him $25 to polish hood

WildcheaperthansandpaperAlaska

cortez kid · May 3, 2005, 07:11 AM

Shorts, please let us see how it comes out. I've got one myself. I'ts kind off polishing itself, but not very nicely. Might do it to mine if it is feasable(easy and looks good)
good shootin
kid

Shorts · May 3, 2005, 10:38 AM

Sure thing. This one just looks dirty and blah. I'm not paying $25 for a 'smith to do it

This is a project for myself. Like working on my truck. I like to "make it mine" with the mods I do to it (and I've certainly done A LOT!). I don't take it in to the dealer just to get an oil change.

Thanks for the info, 600 grit.

Dave Sample · May 3, 2005, 01:09 PM

Wild hit it right on the Money! The barrel hood is like half of a piston in a car engine. The inside top of the slide is half of the cylinder. They rub. I like to make mine smooth. It is about a 10 minute job if you do it real slow.

Here is one I jeweled and then had Bodycote apply the DLC finish to it.

Big Yac · May 3, 2005, 02:18 PM

would semichrome work on that?

Bill Z · May 3, 2005, 02:59 PM

Buy the 'sapler pack' of wet/dry at the automotive dept at Wal-Mart.It goes up to either 1000 or 1500 grit, Start with 400 and work your way up shoe shining like Ken mentioned. If you want to finish up with semichrome, sure, why not, but if the inside of your slide is not as smooth and shiney, i.e..like Dave is describing the inside of an engine, after a few rounds it'll be scarred up again.

Wildalaska · May 3, 2005, 03:47 PM

All that thought of shoe shiny labor made me gaze longinly at the light buffing wheel

But I'm just the service advisor, Im not authorized to use punches or power tools

WildrpmsAlaska

RickB · May 4, 2005, 02:24 PM

Although the shoe-shine method will result in a great shine, I've found that because the "grain" of the polish is running at right angles to the rubbing of the barrel and slide, the polish dulls quickly in the contact areas. After getting the level of smoothness desired, I wrapped some emery cloth around a large rubber eraser, and went over everything again, in a fore-aft direction, and it stayed bright a lot longer.

Harry Bonar · May 4, 2005, 03:06 PM

Dear Shooter
Looks like a nice 45; now, after you use the 600 grit you've got to get some black "dynashine" shoe polish and a rag and spit shine that sucker!

Hey! Just Kidding! Harry B.

Shorts · May 4, 2005, 04:12 PM

Ok fellas, I just finished up polishing the barrel and a courtesy cleaning and oilin', 600 grit wet sanding job, here's the pics:

Barrel finished. Before starting, it had the ugly black-scuffed finish

Nice poser shot, the barrel (the whole point of this post) slightly visible

Here's the "sanding handle" I made. I can't use my left hand, so this enabled me to use the shoe shine method. I also had a smaller narrower strip I used by thumb to clean up the lower areas of the barrel that weren't getting polished with the larger, wider strip. That was mainly around the "S.A. .45" stamp. The stamp is still nice and defined, though you can't see it in the pics. My camera just plain bites it so I can't get a closeup of how nice it cleaned up.

This is my first attempt at toolin' around with the (any) gun, so I'm happy with it. I might go back to really mirror finish it and completely remove the extra fine marks that remain.

What can I use to do this?

Shorts · May 4, 2005, 04:14 PM

RickB, I'll probably go back and buff the vertical direction of the barrel next time I take it down again. I shoulda checkedthis post one last time before I started. That'll allow me to shoot some rounds and see if and where there is contact.

Close up on the hood:

Dave Sample · May 5, 2005, 06:00 PM

Well, folks, we have got Shorts "Hooked" now! So I have to tell you the rest of the story.
You have to polish the cylinder half also. The inside of the slide has to be smoothed out to achieve the desired effect! Make a sanding stick out of a 12" piece of an old broom handle or a 3/4 " dowel. Cut a slit in on end about 1 1/2-2" deep. Take a strip of sandpaper 1 1/2 -2 "s wide and carefully wind it around the dowel after you stick the end in the slit. Glue the end so it will stay in place. Then shine up those upper lugs in the slide until it shines like a diamond in a goats butt! Don't remove and metal , just shine it up. OK? You can tape up the sides of your slide with masking tape and put it in your vice upside down to hold it. You have made a "Captain Eagle Cheap Tool" called a "Lug Iron!"

Wildalaska · May 5, 2005, 06:36 PM

And when ya really get good, chuck that stick in a variable speed drill and give it a twirl...

1000 grit though, be careful

WildwhirringdervishAlaska

Dave Sample · May 6, 2005, 12:09 PM

Key Words Here: "When you get really good". I am not that good yet so I still use the old slow hand method..........................

Shorts · May 7, 2005, 12:12 PM

I polished the lugs inside the slide, although, it wasn't as thorough a job as I would have liked to do. I made the dowel, but I didn't let the glue set long enough so it unwrapped

I'll fix it up though and finish to my satisfaction. My fingers are small enough that I can fit them inside the slide rails and I polished them that way.

As far as using a Dremel or "power" behind specific delicate work, it makes me nervous

I use it on the wood, leather and heavy metal outside on my truck, but for now, since I'm not really good, it's all by hand

I'd much rather do it that way.

Thanks for all the help guys

Dave Sample · May 7, 2005, 01:06 PM

Glad you did some good, Shorts. Time is on your side and you have plenty of it to play with.
I wish everyone had the respect for the Mr. Dremel Tool that you do. They can turn very fast and are easy to lose control over. I use them all the time (I have three hooked up as we speak) and I have the greatest respect for them now as always. They are a wonderful thing in my shop, but I still handle them with care.

Wildalaska · May 7, 2005, 10:52 PM

Dave look at this auction I put up...Dremel tool madness....Im a hypocrite for recommending the evil dremel

http://www.auctionarms.com/search/di...temNum=6645143

WildmetalshavingsAlaska

Dave Sample · May 8, 2005, 12:16 PM

One of the BIG RULES in using Mr. Dremel Man is do not use it on flat surfaces. Looks like you are going to get rid of that bad job OK. I did two SA tune ups yesterday and used them well. I rode them hard and out them away wet! I had to knock them out so I can get loose from here for a couple of weeks.

Hey! Mr. Dremel Man......................Dremel Me Banana..................daylite cum and I wanna go home.........................

Wildalaska · May 8, 2005, 01:22 PM

Actually the guys here dont use Dremels as much as they use Fordams, same concept. They let me touch a cratex wheel once

WildandimallowedtoputbrassinthetumblerAlaska

Bill Z · May 9, 2005, 05:44 AM

Quote:

WildandimallowedtoputbrassinthetumblerAlaska

That fellow would have been better off if he would have put that rifle in a tumbler somewhere. Still looks like you are going to come out okay on it, but I love to see what it wouldhave fetched pristineor even with just the pitting on it.

Dave Sample · May 9, 2005, 03:43 PM

I don't think the wear and tear hurt the value as much as the brass monkey that Dremeled it! Whats a pit or two among pals, Wild?

Wildalaska · May 9, 2005, 04:36 PM

Its not pits, its called character

WildantiquemeAlaska

Bill Z · May 10, 2005, 01:52 PM

That rifle still has character, it's just more like a cartoon character now though.

Wildalaska · May 10, 2005, 06:08 PM

I bet I get $400 out of it...

WildwaitotyouseemynextauctionAlaska

May 3, 2005, 12:06 AM	#1
Shorts Senior Member Join Date: November 21, 2004 Posts: 1,484	How do you polish the barrel (hood?) I'd like to polish the barrel of our SA GI, just for asthetics. I was wondering what's necessary as far as compound and tools. Or is this something I should/shouldn't do that would affect function? Here's a pic representing: Last edited by Shorts; March 10, 2008 at 09:04 PM.

May 3, 2005, 02:18 PM	#6
Big Yac Senior Member Join Date: April 23, 2005 Location: Ohio Posts: 422	would semichrome work on that? __________________ "...and that's the bottom line, because Big Yac said so."

May 3, 2005, 02:59 PM	#7
Bill Z Member Join Date: May 30, 2004 Location: Augusta, GA Posts: 97	Buy the 'sapler pack' of wet/dry at the automotive dept at Wal-Mart.It goes up to either 1000 or 1500 grit, Start with 400 and work your way up shoe shining like Ken mentioned. If you want to finish up with semichrome, sure, why not, but if the inside of your slide is not as smooth and shiney, i.e..like Dave is describing the inside of an engine, after a few rounds it'll be scarred up again. __________________ Patriot Customs

May 4, 2005, 03:06 PM	#10
Harry Bonar Senior Member Join Date: December 5, 2004 Location: In the Vincent, Ohio general area. Posts: 1,804	Polished hood Dear Shooter Looks like a nice 45; now, after you use the 600 grit you've got to get some black "dynashine" shoe polish and a rag and spit shine that sucker! Hey! Just Kidding! Harry B.

May 4, 2005, 04:12 PM	#11
Shorts Senior Member Join Date: November 21, 2004 Posts: 1,484	Ok fellas, I just finished up polishing the barrel and a courtesy cleaning and oilin', 600 grit wet sanding job, here's the pics: Barrel finished. Before starting, it had the ugly black-scuffed finish Nice poser shot, the barrel (the whole point of this post) slightly visible Here's the "sanding handle" I made. I can't use my left hand, so this enabled me to use the shoe shine method. I also had a smaller narrower strip I used by thumb to clean up the lower areas of the barrel that weren't getting polished with the larger, wider strip. That was mainly around the "S.A. .45" stamp. The stamp is still nice and defined, though you can't see it in the pics. My camera just plain bites it so I can't get a closeup of how nice it cleaned up. This is my first attempt at toolin' around with the (any) gun, so I'm happy with it. I might go back to really mirror finish it and completely remove the extra fine marks that remain. What can I use to do this? Last edited by Shorts; March 10, 2008 at 09:04 PM.

May 3, 2005, 01:20 AM	#2
Wildalaska Junior member Join Date: November 25, 2002 Location: In my own little weird world in Anchorage, Alaska Posts: 14,172	1. Clamp barrel in vise, work it like your shining a shoe with wet 600 paper..or 2. Take to gunsmith, give him $25 to polish hood WildcheaperthansandpaperAlaska

May 3, 2005, 07:11 AM	#3
cortez kid Senior Member Join Date: February 1, 2005 Location: Scranton Pa Posts: 237	Shorts, please let us see how it comes out. I've got one myself. I'ts kind off polishing itself, but not very nicely. Might do it to mine if it is feasable(easy and looks good) good shootin kid

May 3, 2005, 10:38 AM	#4
Shorts Senior Member Join Date: November 21, 2004 Posts: 1,484	Sure thing. This one just looks dirty and blah. I'm not paying $25 for a 'smith to do it This is a project for myself. Like working on my truck. I like to "make it mine" with the mods I do to it (and I've certainly done A LOT!). I don't take it in to the dealer just to get an oil change. Thanks for the info, 600 grit.

May 3, 2005, 01:09 PM	#5
Dave Sample Junior member Join Date: December 10, 2004 Location: Prescott, AZ Posts: 1,002	Wild hit it right on the Money! The barrel hood is like half of a piston in a car engine. The inside top of the slide is half of the cylinder. They rub. I like to make mine smooth. It is about a 10 minute job if you do it real slow. Here is one I jeweled and then had Bodycote apply the DLC finish to it.

May 3, 2005, 03:47 PM	#8
Wildalaska Junior member Join Date: November 25, 2002 Location: In my own little weird world in Anchorage, Alaska Posts: 14,172	All that thought of shoe shiny labor made me gaze longinly at the light buffing wheel But I'm just the service advisor, Im not authorized to use punches or power tools WildrpmsAlaska

May 4, 2005, 02:24 PM	#9
RickB Senior Member Join Date: March 1, 2000 Location: Boise, ID Posts: 8,518	Although the shoe-shine method will result in a great shine, I've found that because the "grain" of the polish is running at right angles to the rubbing of the barrel and slide, the polish dulls quickly in the contact areas. After getting the level of smoothness desired, I wrapped some emery cloth around a large rubber eraser, and went over everything again, in a fore-aft direction, and it stayed bright a lot longer.

May 4, 2005, 04:14 PM	#12
Shorts Senior Member Join Date: November 21, 2004 Posts: 1,484	RickB, I'll probably go back and buff the vertical direction of the barrel next time I take it down again. I shoulda checkedthis post one last time before I started. That'll allow me to shoot some rounds and see if and where there is contact. Close up on the hood: Last edited by Shorts; March 10, 2008 at 09:04 PM.

May 5, 2005, 06:00 PM	#13
Dave Sample Junior member Join Date: December 10, 2004 Location: Prescott, AZ Posts: 1,002	Well, folks, we have got Shorts "Hooked" now! So I have to tell you the rest of the story. You have to polish the cylinder half also. The inside of the slide has to be smoothed out to achieve the desired effect! Make a sanding stick out of a 12" piece of an old broom handle or a 3/4 " dowel. Cut a slit in on end about 1 1/2-2" deep. Take a strip of sandpaper 1 1/2 -2 "s wide and carefully wind it around the dowel after you stick the end in the slit. Glue the end so it will stay in place. Then shine up those upper lugs in the slide until it shines like a diamond in a goats butt! Don't remove and metal , just shine it up. OK? You can tape up the sides of your slide with masking tape and put it in your vice upside down to hold it. You have made a "Captain Eagle Cheap Tool" called a "Lug Iron!"

May 5, 2005, 06:36 PM	#14
Wildalaska Junior member Join Date: November 25, 2002 Location: In my own little weird world in Anchorage, Alaska Posts: 14,172	And when ya really get good, chuck that stick in a variable speed drill and give it a twirl... 1000 grit though, be careful WildwhirringdervishAlaska

May 6, 2005, 12:09 PM	#15
Dave Sample Junior member Join Date: December 10, 2004 Location: Prescott, AZ Posts: 1,002	Key Words Here: "When you get really good". I am not that good yet so I still use the old slow hand method..........................

May 7, 2005, 12:12 PM	#16
Shorts Senior Member Join Date: November 21, 2004 Posts: 1,484	I polished the lugs inside the slide, although, it wasn't as thorough a job as I would have liked to do. I made the dowel, but I didn't let the glue set long enough so it unwrapped I'll fix it up though and finish to my satisfaction. My fingers are small enough that I can fit them inside the slide rails and I polished them that way. As far as using a Dremel or "power" behind specific delicate work, it makes me nervous I use it on the wood, leather and heavy metal outside on my truck, but for now, since I'm not really good, it's all by hand I'd much rather do it that way. Thanks for all the help guys

May 7, 2005, 01:06 PM	#17
Dave Sample Junior member Join Date: December 10, 2004 Location: Prescott, AZ Posts: 1,002	Glad you did some good, Shorts. Time is on your side and you have plenty of it to play with. I wish everyone had the respect for the Mr. Dremel Tool that you do. They can turn very fast and are easy to lose control over. I use them all the time (I have three hooked up as we speak) and I have the greatest respect for them now as always. They are a wonderful thing in my shop, but I still handle them with care.

May 7, 2005, 10:52 PM	#18
Wildalaska Junior member Join Date: November 25, 2002 Location: In my own little weird world in Anchorage, Alaska Posts: 14,172	Dave look at this auction I put up...Dremel tool madness....Im a hypocrite for recommending the evil dremel http://www.auctionarms.com/search/di...temNum=6645143 WildmetalshavingsAlaska

May 8, 2005, 12:16 PM	#19
Dave Sample Junior member Join Date: December 10, 2004 Location: Prescott, AZ Posts: 1,002	One of the BIG RULES in using Mr. Dremel Man is do not use it on flat surfaces. Looks like you are going to get rid of that bad job OK. I did two SA tune ups yesterday and used them well. I rode them hard and out them away wet! I had to knock them out so I can get loose from here for a couple of weeks. Hey! Mr. Dremel Man......................Dremel Me Banana..................daylite cum and I wanna go home.........................

May 8, 2005, 01:22 PM	#20
Wildalaska Junior member Join Date: November 25, 2002 Location: In my own little weird world in Anchorage, Alaska Posts: 14,172	Actually the guys here dont use Dremels as much as they use Fordams, same concept. They let me touch a cratex wheel once WildandimallowedtoputbrassinthetumblerAlaska

May 9, 2005, 03:43 PM	#22
Dave Sample Junior member Join Date: December 10, 2004 Location: Prescott, AZ Posts: 1,002	I don't think the wear and tear hurt the value as much as the brass monkey that Dremeled it! Whats a pit or two among pals, Wild?

May 9, 2005, 04:36 PM	#23
Wildalaska Junior member Join Date: November 25, 2002 Location: In my own little weird world in Anchorage, Alaska Posts: 14,172	Its not pits, its called character WildantiquemeAlaska

May 10, 2005, 01:52 PM	#24
Bill Z Member Join Date: May 30, 2004 Location: Augusta, GA Posts: 97	That rifle still has character, it's just more like a cartoon character now though. __________________ Patriot Customs

May 10, 2005, 06:08 PM	#25
Wildalaska Junior member Join Date: November 25, 2002 Location: In my own little weird world in Anchorage, Alaska Posts: 14,172	I bet I get $400 out of it... WildwaitotyouseemynextauctionAlaska