Zero for long range shooting

[TrueBlue711]

Just curious to see where people who do long range shooting (1000+ yards) zero their rifles at. 200, 300, 400 yards? Further?

[emcon5]

My base zero is at 200, and I reset the target turrets so the "0" on the elevation knob is on at that range. Then adjust it based on my dope sheet for whatever the target range is.

[30Cal]

You write down zeros for each distance.

[jmr40]

Most optics are designed for either a 100 or 200 yard zero, then adjust the dials for the actual range you are shooting. That is the best advice even for hunters or anyone else shooting at much closer ranges. If you are shooting at various ranges from 50-500 yards having a 300-400 yard zero causes more problems than it solves.

If you only plan to shoot at one set range then zero for that range.

[TXAZ]

I like to shoot at 600 and 1000, but the zero is 200, which is ~ flat from muzzle to ~250 yards.

[TrueBlue711]

The "long distance" range near me reaches out to 750 yards, but there is also plenty of open desert around me too. The rifle I'm using will be a dedicated bench gun for shooting steel between 500 and 1300 yards. I don't plan on shooting anything closer than 200 yards with it.

[kraigwy]

I zero my rifles at 100. Range the targets and come up the required amount. If you have a scope it works great.

Handy also it a good range finder. I use the G7 BR-2 with its ballistic program. Once you get the info imputted PROPERLY, you just range it, the G7 gives you the adjustments, them come up on the scope dials.

Simple, fast and accurate.

[Jim Watson]

I am like 30cal. All my Long Range shooting has been at known distances so I have a notebook with sight settings recorded.

If you are using reticle features for ranging and holdover, there may be a baseline distance you should zero at before you climb the scale. Read the directions.

[DPI7800]

All of my scopes get set at 100 yards regardless if it is a 223 or 338LM. I do this because I never have to dial down.

Example a 143 6.5 creed moving at 2561fps and zeroed for 200 yds if you need to place a bullet in an exact place at 50yds you need to dial down 1.75 MOA VS zero set at 100 for the same 50yard shot you dial up .50 MOA.

Overall no big unless you are running optics with zero stops.

[Don Fischer]

Doesn't matter where you zero your rifle, if your shooting long range your gonna have to readjust the scope somewhere to account for bullet drop!

[TrueBlue711]

Doesn't matter where you zero your rifle, if your shooting long range your gonna have to readjust the scope somewhere to account for bullet drop

Oh I get that. I'm just asking what people are setting their base zero at. I know the further out you set your base zero, the less clicks you'll need to make in your scope for those long distances.

Sounds like 200 yds is a common choice. Of course I'll play with it and set it to my liking, but I'll at least start with 200.

[Mobuck]

IMHO
Resetting to a "base zero" is a waste of time and adds wear to the scope's internals if you're only using the rifle as a range toy. Make a note of what your last range setting is and adjust as needed next time.
Resetting to a "base zero" would have merit IF there's a chance someone might be shooting at you the next time you pick up your rifle.

[tobnpr]

200 zero.
Really makes no difference, just fewer clicks to get where you need to be as mentioned.

[MarkCO]

I tried using 200 and 300. PITA and I went back to 100 for all rifle calibers. Hunting guns, Precision guns, plinkers.

Either dialing or holding past 150 vs 240 is not that big of a deal. Most of my rifle shooting is inside 100 or past 300, so it really did nothing beneficial for me. I have had a few senior moments where I could not remember if I had a 100 or 200 zero on a gun, had to check. That was enough to just go back to 100 across the board.

[Txhillbilly]

I zero all of mine at 100 yards. On most of my scopes,I have enough travel range to adjust out to around 1700 yards using 20 moa bases.

[Don Fischer]

Doesn't matter how far you zero in at, at some point the bullet will fall below line of sight them you'll have to be a better shooter!

[Road_Clam]

My zero is 200 meters. Only because I frequently like to test my handloads at 200 meters not 100 yds. My clubs 200 meter range is never busy so it's very convenient for me to call the line cold and do a target swap. 200 meters also makes in convenient when I want to enter into a high power competition match as they are most all done at 200 yds. I only shoot known distances 300, 500 and 600 and I simply print up a quick reference dope card and attach it to my clip board notepad for the shoot. Many of my popular loads and distances I have the dopes memorized. I also use my Strelok app but I always make a dope card as a backup in case my phone dies or it's very hard to read the screen in direct bright sun.

[Archie]

Zero depends on the target and the use.

For precision target work, one needs a specific zero at each range involved with the ammunition to be used.

For hunting and other purposes, one can determine the trajectory of the round in question and the vertical size of the target expected. From this, one can determine the "point blank range" of the rifle and ammunition combination.

This method allowed the M1903 Springfield rifle with M1906 ammunition to impact a human torso at ranges up to five hundred and some yards without adjusting the sights (after initial sight setting).

If that strikes one as a possibility, do some research on "Battle Sight Zero".

[Unconventional]

I zero at 100 meters.

Originally Posted by Archie

Zero depends on the target and the use.

For precision target work, one needs a specific zero at each range involved with the ammunition to be used.

For hunting and other purposes, one can determine the trajectory of the round in question and the vertical size of the target expected. From this, one can determine the "point blank range" of the rifle and ammunition combination.

This method allowed the M1903 Springfield rifle with M1906 ammunition to impact a human torso at ranges up to five hundred and some yards without adjusting the sights (after initial sight setting).

If that strikes one as a possibility, do some research on "Battle Sight Zero".

The "specific zero at each range" isn't really a zero. You will either hold over if your reticle allows, or dial on the elevation if the scope allows. (Or both, if necessary) When done, you will return to your scope's zero.

"Each range involved" may mean an innumerable amout of "zeros" to the shooter who engages a target at unknown distances, as opposed to simply 400, 500, 600, etc.

Using a point blank range zero/battle sight zero for shooting 1000+ yards, as the OP mentioned, sounds like an inefficient way to run a gun, if not impossible.

You zero at a given range, then compensate for bullet drop using the scope knobs or reticle.

[Don Fischer]

Originally Posted by Archie

Zero depends on the target and the use.

For precision target work, one needs a specific zero at each range involved with the ammunition to be used.

For hunting and other purposes, one can determine the trajectory of the round in question and the vertical size of the target expected. From this, one can determine the "point blank range" of the rifle and ammunition combination.

This method allowed the M1903 Springfield rifle with M1906 ammunition to impact a human torso at ranges up to five hundred and some yards without adjusting the sights (after initial sight setting).

If that strikes one as a possibility, do some research on "Battle Sight Zero".

What 30-06 ammo will allow a MPBR at 500 yds? I know it can be done but I suspect at mid range your gonna shoot over the top of the target. I do zero everything for MPBR, everything. Recently did my 22 mag. With a 4" target it will zero at 130yds and at 150 yds be 2.1" low. I zero'ed it couple days ago and the trajectory worked out fine. I only got to 100 yds but it's suppoed to be 1.7" high at 100yds and it's to close to worry about. I'm not a long raange shooter but now and then I like to shoot my 6.5x06 to 500 yds. Has a 4 1/2-14 Nikon on it with turrets. Zero'ed at 6" target I get close to 300yd zero and raise the bullet beyond that with the turret's. I don't hold over with any of my rifle's. They all do what they do so long as I do my part. My thinking is I want all I can reasonably get from the cartridge itself before I have to start re-adjusting the scope of holding over. With that 6.5x06 and 140gr SMK's if I'm on my game, it goes under min of angle at 500yds! The biggest problem with shooting to that rang is people that never do it but think their cartridge will get it any way. Won't, biggest negative in it is the shooter! You can carry the cartridge but it only does what it can, it will not carry you!

[emcon5]

What 30-06 ammo will allow a MPBR at 500 yds? I know it can be done but I suspect at mid range your gonna shoot over the top of the target. I do zero everything for MPBR, everything.

MPBR varies with target size. He said for the 03A3 the target is a "Human Torso". Nuts to neck on me is about 32", giving a 16" radius. Punching that into JBM (with a guess of 1" for sight height) M2 ball gives you a MPBR of 537 yds