Self Blueing

s3779m · March 24, 2013, 07:53 AM

Any experience good or bad on cold blueing yourself?

**Aguila Blanca** · March 24, 2013, 08:24 AM

I have done several touch-ups and a couple of complete pistols using Brownells' Oxpho-Blue (liquid, not paste) product. It's easy to work with and the resulting finish seems to be fairly durable and resistant to wear. My only dislike is that it's not as deep and black as the classic bluing on old Colt and S&W firearms. But I've tried other cold blue products and the results were disastrous.

s3779m · March 24, 2013, 08:40 AM

Thanks, I always ask whats the worst that can happen. The answer can sometimes scare you. Thanks again.

roklok · March 25, 2013, 06:04 AM

Research rust bluing, it is easy to do and you will never consider cold bluing a complete firearm again. I keep cold blue around for tiny touchups, but rust blue is the way to go for the home gunsmith to get a top quality result with no special equipment.

Scorch · March 25, 2013, 12:29 PM

If you just gotta cold blue, use Brownells' Dicropan or Oxphoblue. I have seen a few cold blue jobs that looked ok, but most look lousy.

If you have someone local who does hot tank bluing, you can often have them just dip the parts for $35-$50 if you strip and polish them. You're going to have to strip and polish the gun anyway to get a half-way decent cold blue job, so you might as well just do it right. It's false economy to put all the work into the job and then try to shortcut on the final finish.

**4V50 Gary** · March 25, 2013, 10:34 PM

Like Scorch suggested, look into express bluing. Degrease, boil, apply blue, then boil again, then apply blue, boil, apply blue, card and boil. Then oil.

James K · March 25, 2013, 10:42 PM

But note that rust bluing is NOT cold bluing and requires different chemicals.

Rust bluing, done right, is beautiful and durable. All those pre-1930's Mausers and Lugers we like so much were rust blued, as were most of the commercial rifles of that era.

But cold blue, even used with heating or hot water, is NOT durable and no matter how good it looks when first applied, will wear off rapidly and look spotty and ugly.

Jim

Rifleman1776 · March 26, 2013, 08:11 AM

I have long used Oxpho Blue for touch ups. It works but is not durable. I get a deeper finish if I apply with 0000 steel wool. Something about the reaction with the steel does it.

s3779m · March 26, 2013, 05:37 PM

One more question, did the cold blueing stop it from rusting? I have a taurus 1911 with a bad blueing. Carrying it on a summer day means sweat and rust spots, or I should say rust sections.

wpsdlrg · March 29, 2013, 07:16 AM

"One more question, did the cold blueing stop it from rusting? I have a taurus 1911 with a bad blueing. Carrying it on a summer day means sweat and rust spots, or I should say rust sections."

Sweating on a steel firearm finish is universally a bad thing - promotes rust like crazy. That is nothing unusual. Sweat will even help promote rust on the newer "nitron" finishes used on many guns today as an alternative to bluing.

Bluing, regardless of the type or process, does not STOP rusting. It only will SLOW IT DOWN, so to speak. All blued finishes need a regular thin coat of oil, to prevent rusting. In fact, I know of no practical finish for steel that will ever stop the possibility of rust, 100 %.

Rifleman1776 · March 29, 2013, 08:07 AM

Blueing does not stop rust. Blueing is a rust.

March 24, 2013, 07:53 AM	#1
s3779m Senior Member Join Date: November 12, 2012 Location: Lometa, Texas Posts: 333	Self Blueing Any experience good or bad on cold blueing yourself?

March 25, 2013, 12:29 PM	#5
Scorch Senior Member Join Date: February 13, 2006 Location: Washington state Posts: 15,248	If you just gotta cold blue, use Brownells' Dicropan or Oxphoblue. I have seen a few cold blue jobs that looked ok, but most look lousy. If you have someone local who does hot tank bluing, you can often have them just dip the parts for $35-$50 if you strip and polish them. You're going to have to strip and polish the gun anyway to get a half-way decent cold blue job, so you might as well just do it right. It's false economy to put all the work into the job and then try to shortcut on the final finish. __________________ Never try to educate someone who resists knowledge at all costs. But what do I know? Summit Arms Services

March 25, 2013, 10:34 PM	#6
4V50 Gary Staff Join Date: November 2, 1998 Location: Colorado Posts: 21,831	Like Scorch suggested, look into express bluing. Degrease, boil, apply blue, then boil again, then apply blue, boil, apply blue, card and boil. Then oil. __________________ Vigilantibus et non dormientibus jura subveniunt. *Molon Labe!*

March 24, 2013, 08:24 AM	#2
Aguila Blanca Staff Join Date: September 25, 2008 Location: CONUS Posts: 18,459	I have done several touch-ups and a couple of complete pistols using Brownells' Oxpho-Blue (liquid, not paste) product. It's easy to work with and the resulting finish seems to be fairly durable and resistant to wear. My only dislike is that it's not as deep and black as the classic bluing on old Colt and S&W firearms. But I've tried other cold blue products and the results were disastrous.

March 24, 2013, 08:40 AM	#3
s3779m Senior Member Join Date: November 12, 2012 Location: Lometa, Texas Posts: 333	Thanks, I always ask whats the worst that can happen. The answer can sometimes scare you. Thanks again.

March 25, 2013, 06:04 AM	#4
roklok Senior Member Join Date: October 20, 2008 Location: Fort Yukon, Alaska Posts: 735	Research rust bluing, it is easy to do and you will never consider cold bluing a complete firearm again. I keep cold blue around for tiny touchups, but rust blue is the way to go for the home gunsmith to get a top quality result with no special equipment.

March 25, 2013, 10:42 PM	#7
James K Member In Memoriam Join Date: March 17, 1999 Posts: 24,383	But note that rust bluing is NOT cold bluing and requires different chemicals. Rust bluing, done right, is beautiful and durable. All those pre-1930's Mausers and Lugers we like so much were rust blued, as were most of the commercial rifles of that era. But cold blue, even used with heating or hot water, is NOT durable and no matter how good it looks when first applied, will wear off rapidly and look spotty and ugly. Jim

March 26, 2013, 08:11 AM	#8
Rifleman1776 Senior Member Join Date: April 25, 2010 Location: Arkansas Posts: 3,309	I have long used Oxpho Blue for touch ups. It works but is not durable. I get a deeper finish if I apply with 0000 steel wool. Something about the reaction with the steel does it.

March 26, 2013, 05:37 PM	#9
s3779m Senior Member Join Date: November 12, 2012 Location: Lometa, Texas Posts: 333	One more question, did the cold blueing stop it from rusting? I have a taurus 1911 with a bad blueing. Carrying it on a summer day means sweat and rust spots, or I should say rust sections.

March 29, 2013, 07:16 AM	#10
wpsdlrg Senior Member Join Date: August 18, 2009 Posts: 826	"One more question, did the cold blueing stop it from rusting? I have a taurus 1911 with a bad blueing. Carrying it on a summer day means sweat and rust spots, or I should say rust sections." Sweating on a steel firearm finish is universally a bad thing - promotes rust like crazy. That is nothing unusual. Sweat will even help promote rust on the newer "nitron" finishes used on many guns today as an alternative to bluing. Bluing, regardless of the type or process, does not STOP rusting. It only will SLOW IT DOWN, so to speak. All blued finishes need a regular thin coat of oil, to prevent rusting. In fact, I know of no practical finish for steel that will ever stop the possibility of rust, 100 %.

March 29, 2013, 08:07 AM	#11
Rifleman1776 Senior Member Join Date: April 25, 2010 Location: Arkansas Posts: 3,309	Blueing does not stop rust. Blueing is a rust.