Best rust/corrosion protector? - Page 2

Wleoff · June 1, 2009, 07:46 AM

Try Renaissance wax on the metal. It's a micro-crystalline wax polish, whatever that means. A friend, who does firearm restoration at the Smithsonian, recommended to me. Only problem, it's expensive at $25 for a can at Midway or Brownell's.

I use Breakfree Collector oil on the inside of the barrels for longer storage. I liked RIG, too, but it's no longer available.

**4V50 Gary** · June 1, 2009, 08:07 AM

For a gun you're not shooting? Rennaisance Wax. Developed by the British Museum and used by museums worldwide, it is PH neutral and microcystalline. Rub in a light coat and voila! Buy it at Woodcraft.

ZeSpectre · June 1, 2009, 08:18 AM

I have a "rust promoting" body chemistry (must be the red hair or something) so I have to use extra care with any metals I handle.

For whatever reason the absolute fastest corroding things I regularly come into contact with are the grip screws on my SIG 229 pistols. In my lexicon if something will keep those damned screws clean then it's a good product.

Having said that the top three things I've used so far seem to be Weaponshield CLP or following that a close tie between Gunzilla and Birchwood Casey Sheath/Barricade.

Go to this thread (start around post #23) for my initial Weaponshield review. Go to this post for a review I wrote on Gunzilla.

Horseman · June 9, 2009, 04:59 PM

Quote:

The "toxic" nature in Eezox doesn't bother me one bit. It's not like I swim in the stuff. Heck, I'm exposed to MEK, Toluene, MPK, Jet fuel, Avgas, Kroil, LPS products, types of greases too numerous to list, etc. on a daily basis. A couple of drops of Eezox on a patch is the least of my worries.

That's the problem. Aerosol. I've never tested the liquid. The aerosol comes out with a lot of pressure in a very fine mist. It's almost impossible to toot out enough on a rag and not get a headache from the fumes. Trichloroethylene inhaled is worse for you than most of the things you mentioned.

I'm not trying to talk anyone out of using Eezox. It's certainly a good product. I shoot at least weekly, clean and store guns in an indoor gunroom. I prefer non-toxic stuff these days. In my tests Eezox is usually top but........I save my tests and store them in my garage year round. Eezox samples look worse than the Corrosion X and BF CLP after 1 year... I promise. I have some test boards that go back almost 6 years. A Boeshield T-9 sample is still rust free after the intial 72 hours of salt spray and 5 years of storage in the dust and humidity of my garage.

longranger · June 9, 2009, 06:34 PM

Motor oil for smokeless and olive oil for black powder..motor oil is compatible with smokeless residue it is designed to cling and cool.It costs less than all the other fancy gun oils, lubes and wax that are so thin they migrate off metal within a few days for some a little longer for others.Motor oil, you put on it stays until cleaned off.Olive oil has similar properties and is extremely compatible with black powder residue and clean up.

June 1, 2009, 08:07 AM	#27
4V50 Gary Staff Join Date: November 2, 1998 Location: Colorado Posts: 21,840	For a gun you're not shooting? Rennaisance Wax. Developed by the British Museum and used by museums worldwide, it is PH neutral and microcystalline. Rub in a light coat and voila! Buy it at Woodcraft. __________________ Vigilantibus et non dormientibus jura subveniunt. *Molon Labe!*

June 1, 2009, 07:46 AM	#26
Wleoff Senior Member Join Date: June 6, 2008 Location: North AL Posts: 380	Try Renaissance wax on the metal. It's a micro-crystalline wax polish, whatever that means. A friend, who does firearm restoration at the Smithsonian, recommended to me. Only problem, it's expensive at $25 for a can at Midway or Brownell's. I use Breakfree Collector oil on the inside of the barrels for longer storage. I liked RIG, too, but it's no longer available.

June 1, 2009, 08:18 AM	#28
ZeSpectre Senior Member Join Date: June 4, 2007 Location: Shenandoah Valley Posts: 3,276	I have a "rust promoting" body chemistry (must be the red hair or something) so I have to use extra care with any metals I handle. For whatever reason the absolute fastest corroding things I regularly come into contact with are the grip screws on my SIG 229 pistols. In my lexicon if something will keep those damned screws clean then it's a good product. Having said that the top three things I've used so far seem to be Weaponshield CLP or following that a close tie between Gunzilla and Birchwood Casey Sheath/Barricade. Go to this thread (start around post #23) for my initial Weaponshield review. Go to this post for a review I wrote on Gunzilla.

June 9, 2009, 06:34 PM	#30
longranger Senior Member Join Date: November 4, 2008 Location: Buffalo WY Posts: 1,056	Motor oil for smokeless and olive oil for black powder..motor oil is compatible with smokeless residue it is designed to cling and cool.It costs less than all the other fancy gun oils, lubes and wax that are so thin they migrate off metal within a few days for some a little longer for others.Motor oil, you put on it stays until cleaned off.Olive oil has similar properties and is extremely compatible with black powder residue and clean up.