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Old January 7, 2014, 10:59 PM   #1
cast iron
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corrosion and rust protection

Question....I have an upright gun safe that I have to keep in the garage due to space issues. It is subject to significant temperature changes. I do keep two canon silica cans inside and recharge them when needed.

What is a good product to use on outside and inside of my pistols and long guns for extra protection against rust and corrosion? Grease or oil or????
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Old January 7, 2014, 11:22 PM   #2
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Long term storage....

I'd suggest these resources...

Eezox, is well known for firearm protection. Note; Eezox may not be good for some items like wood, rubber, plastic, etc. Check the site for details. I think the firm also markets a special type just for storage.
Breakfree has a museum grade CLP for weapon & knife/sword storage. That may meet your needs.
IGG; is a new CLP that shows a lot of promise. They have greases & oils.
There are a few milspec packs & bags you can seal up the firearms in. These are made for guns you can store/save for survival or disaster preparedness.

See .
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Old January 7, 2014, 11:23 PM   #3
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Go see:

Though they put their Vapor Corrosion Inhibitor chips or cards under the "fishing gear" section, I find they work well inside my smaller 17 cu ft safe. They can be easily fit inside gun socks or placed on the shelf next to your favorite guns. They make other products as well, but I've had good success with the chips so far. They make products for your safe and for individual firearm protection too.

For pistols & revolvers, I'll recommend using Bore StoresĀ® - especially in combination with the VCI chips above -- as they work very well. Here's the link to the product at Brownell's.
BillCA in CA (Unfortunately)
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Old January 8, 2014, 10:25 AM   #4
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For oil use Breakfree COLLECTOR.
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Old January 8, 2014, 08:28 PM   #5
4V50 Gary
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Rig Gun Grease. My friend polished his 10/22 bbl to a shiny white. He then applied Rig, buffed and repeated three more times. He lives in a salt air environment (San Francisco Bay Area) that is foggy a lot of times (our superintendent told me that each drop of fog had one salt crystal in it). Anyway, after several years he removed he 10/22 barrel from his safe and found it to be spotless.

If the object is valuable I'd go one step further and use Renaissance Wax (Woodcraft Stores). It's PH neutral and may be applied to wood, metal and leather. Developed by the British Museum, it is used by museum conservators worldwide (so a highly respected museum conservator told me).
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Old January 8, 2014, 10:44 PM   #6
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Renaissance Wax is very good. Any carnuba-based wax can be considered for use on a gun, including Flitz Gun Wax (which also has beeswax). When applying, however, be sure the surface of the gun is grease & oil free. Use alcohol and a Q-tip to remove it from crevices and contours. Then apply the wax per directions (much like waxing a car). Wipe off any haze and polish with a clean, dry cloth. The wax repels water & moisture and forms a sealed barrier.

If guns are valuable (aren't they all?) you can use a combination of methods to protect them, such as waxing or surface protectants and VCI products inside the safe.
BillCA in CA (Unfortunately)
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Old January 10, 2014, 08:27 PM   #7
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You may also want to look at a heater for the inside of the safe to minimize the temperature changes inside the safe itself, such as a Goldenrod dehumidifier. Zerust makes VCI bags that you can use to store firearms, they have sizes for handguns as well as long guns.
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Old January 11, 2014, 09:55 PM   #8
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A safe in the garage, sitting on concrete is not normally subjected to rapid swings in temperature and humidity. The concrete will act as a heat sink and keep the safe cool. If the seals are tight on your safe a dehumidifier or similar will keep the air moisture content low.

The trick is to avoid opening a cool or cold safe on warm, humid days. The warm, moisture laden air rushes in and begins to condense on cool surfaces. Installing a low-watt heater or even a 15W incandescent bulb to equalize the internal and external temperatures will help.
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