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Old November 2, 2012, 08:19 AM   #1
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filthy trigger mech.

Cleaning an 1954 mfg. Remington 11-48 that I just picked up. I don't think it has been cleaned since it left the factory. Got everything looking good but the firing pin mech. I is coated with old oil and fouling. I do not want to take it apart. I have used Gun Scrubber and that helped a bit.

Is there anything I can use to soak this thing in for over night or longer if needed?

Thanks in advance for any help..

I feel so stupid. I meant to say the trigger mech. I already have the pin removed and cleaned.

Forgive me, I am fighting the flu.

Thanks again

Last edited by crater22; November 2, 2012 at 09:47 AM.
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Old November 2, 2012, 10:20 AM   #2
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If you have a ultrasonic cleaner, give the trigger a bath in that.
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Old November 2, 2012, 11:42 AM   #3
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Brake cleaner. However, after you clean it off be sure and use compressed air to blow it off then immediately replace the lubrication. Brake cleaner will strip off the protective lubricant down to the microscopic level and if you don't replace that protection the parts will quickly start to rust. I use a shot of ordinary CLP and the blast it with compressed air to remove the excess.
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Old November 2, 2012, 11:44 AM   #4
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Almost any kind of a bath will work don't need anything real fancy since you have the Trigger Group out of the gun.

Most any kind of a "de-greaser" household cleaner in hot soapy water will work pretty well....use an old toothbrush to get into the nooks and crannies ....maybe some compresse air to dry it out / or just let it set for a few hours...and then make sure you oil it after you're done (lightly of course). If that doesn't work ....I would just soak it good with a good solvent Shooters Choice, Gun Scrubber, etc...lay it on a paper towel...and spritz it really good - wait 30 min ..and come back with the toothbrush.

And taking that trigger group out - once a month with prevent this from happening again..../ it is amazing that on a lot of shotguns ...guys never remove the trigger groups, never take the stocks off an over under...etc....
its not the best way to treat your weapons, in my view !
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Old November 2, 2012, 06:32 PM   #5
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+1 on the Brake Cleaner. And to re-lubing.

Also as far as a bath goes, ATF(automatic transmission fluid) is high in detergent and letting parts soak in it will soften dirt/gummed oils nicely.
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Old November 2, 2012, 06:36 PM   #6
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Remington recommends spraying the trigger group dripping wet with Rem-Oil, allowing it to soak 30 minutes, then drain and blow/wipe out the excess.

If it's really bad, soaking it in ordinary cheap paint thinner works, but don't soak too long as it's possible it might attack the black finish on the outside.
Soak for 30 minutes, scrubbing with a solvent-proof toothbrush every few minutes.

After it's clean, blow out with compressed air if you have it, or sling it off and use paper towel to get as much as possible.
Then finish drying by warming it with a hair dryer.
After it's dry, spray with Rem-Oil to lubricate and protect from rust.
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Old November 2, 2012, 06:40 PM   #7
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For this kind of cleaning, I use a cheap ultrasonic cleaner with a solution of 70%water, and 30% Simple Green. You can use more SG if you want. That stuff is one heck of a cleaner and degreaser!

After the ultrasonic cleaning, I'll drain out the solution and replace it with a WD40 bath. 5 minutes in the ultrasound will do.

Finally, I blow it completely dry with compressed air, and lube with Kano Microil--these are the same guys that make Kroil. It's really a superior lube.
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Old November 2, 2012, 07:05 PM   #8
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Guns , especially the old ones may have had cheap oil used and that will oxydize and turn into a varnish .That has too all be removed . Boiling Trisodium phosphate solution can be used [DO NOT USE ON ANY ALUMINUM PARTS ,they will be dissolved !] ,trichlorethylene ,or other good solvents .Blow out residue and lube with a high quality gun oil.
And Watson , bring your revolver !
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Old November 2, 2012, 07:23 PM   #9
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Let it soak

Is there anything I can use to soak this thing in for over night or longer if needed?
There are many good solvents that one can use. The problem is being too impatient. My number one solvent, is mineral spirits and have soaked parts as long as three days. I also use brake cleaner and that little plastic tube nozzle, can really get in there and blow out the mud. Do not use carberator cleaner as it may eat parts you did not expect. ....

One oil that I no longer use, is Rem. oil as in short time, it will lose it's internal solvents and start gumming up. This oil will also freeze on you in very cold weather. Turns your semi-auto, into a single shot. ....

So, soak it as long as you need, in mineral spirits. Sloshing it every so often and blow what left out, with brake cleaner. Be careful with the break cleaner as it get very cold, dry and possibly hurt your hands. I usually hold the piece on towel. ...

Be Safe !!!
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Old November 2, 2012, 08:05 PM   #10
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Lacquer thinner is my choice. Doesn't attack any metal or metal finish except paint, and the 11-48 is anodized aluminum, not paint. Drop it in a shallow bowl with enough to cover the trigger assembly. Cover with aluminum foil and set it outside. Slosh it around two or three times. Next morning, final slosh, shake out the excess. Let dry and spray with RemOil.
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Old November 3, 2012, 07:23 PM   #11
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I'd be very careful about using Simply Green or many of the other super de-greaser cleaners.
Many of these will attack aluminum and can very quickly strip anodized finishes off aluminum parts.

They tend to attack faster in an ultrasonic cleaner.
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Old November 7, 2012, 01:55 AM   #12
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Brake or carb cleaner, be sure to lubricate after.
"Suppose you were an idiot, and suppose you were a member of Congress, but I repeat myself." Mark Twain
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