Question about 'drop in' 1911 trigger

[mrgoodwrench76]

I have an 80 series Sig Sauer GSR 1911. I purchased a different trigger for asthetic purposes from wilson combat that I was told would 'drop in'. Ive since heard and read things about the triggers needing to be fitted. I decided to install said triger anyway (its an addiction ) and so far, I've had no issues after a few hundred rounds. Although it does feel a bit more loose than the factory one was, it functions correctly.

My question is, are there any functionality, reliability, safety issues with not having the trigger fitted by a trained professional? I dont want to cause any damage or safety issues with the pistol in the long term.

[Hunter Customs]

If it lifts the series 80 levers enough so there's no problem with the functioning of the series 80 parts and also allows the grip safety to work as it should I don't believe there will be a problem.

If the trigger you are using has an overtravel screw make sure it's secured in the trigger, if not it could cause a problem.

Best Regards
Bob Hunter
www.huntercustoms.com

[mrgoodwrench76]

It does have an overtravel screw which I adj. when I installed it. Lock tite applied to screw.

Is there a way to take out some of the 'slop' in the trigger? It seems to fit a bit more loosely than the original. I considered taking it to a gunsmith but I just moved and havn't found a good place to frequent yet.

[Creeper]

Is there a way to take out some of the 'slop' in the trigger?

Not easily. It requires adding "something" to take up the space between trigger shoe and frame. If you remove your new trigger and take some shoe measurements... width and height, and compare to the original trigger, you'll find where the additional play comes from.
It would be easier to remove material from an "oversize" trigger like a .920" Nowlin than to try and add a permanent increase to the Wilson.

Now... if you happen to be a professional welder, or have a good friend who is a professional welder, it would be a fairly simple thing to add a bit to your new trigger, then file and sand it down to fit the frame.
Once, many years ago, I actually super-glued some .003" shim stock to the bottom of a trigger shoe as a (very) temporary fix. I would not suggest or recommend it to anyone as a "good idea"... but my bad idea might better serve to illustrate the issue.

Cheers,
C

[g.willikers]

Now you know why it's a one-size-fits-all, drop in part, instead of one that requires fitting.