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Old June 23, 2012, 08:07 PM   #1
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Barrel regulation on Vaquero

When a 'Smith regulates the barrel does he remove metal from the frame face or the barrel?
Once the barrel gets turned do they remount the ejector rod housing? Seems like they'd have to re drill the hole or something.
My 4 5/8" .357 Vaquero shoots about an inch to a inch and a half left at 20 yards. I have tried Jacketed and pure Lead bullets and no matter what bullet I still get the left bullet placement.
I suppose that the first trick to try is filing the rear sight opening to one side to see if I can pull the groups in?
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Old June 23, 2012, 08:47 PM   #2
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Do not try to file the notch wider, you will screw up the gun. The proper way is to regulate the barrel.
Never try to educate someone who resists knowledge at all costs.
But what do I know?
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Old June 24, 2012, 07:10 AM   #3
Harry Bonar
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shooting left

Let an experienced shooter try your gun - it may be a flinching problem!
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Old June 24, 2012, 01:22 PM   #4
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Ignore that this talks about a Glock. The basics of trigger control still apply, particularly the part I bolded.

5. Trigger Squeeze
There is a wide variety of trigger "feels" available today, from traditional double/single action to double-action only, and Glock's "safe-action". Each of these requires a slightly different trigger technique. The most difficult to master is the traditional double/single action. The transition from the first shot's double-action to the remaining shots' single-action requires the shooter to learn and master two different trigger techniques and to transition between them after the first shot. The easiest trigger to learn and master is the Glock's. It is the lightest version of the double-action-only trigger, and the lack of levers and buttons makes transitioning revolver shooters to autos easiest on the Glock.

The key to trigger control is a steady press of the trigger. The trigger finger should slip into the trigger guard from its "safety" position on the frame only when you are ready to shoot. Otherwise, it stays out of the trigger guard along the side of the frame. One must guard against "slapping" the trigger, however. Once you notice contact with the trigger, go to the smooth rolling motion described below. Once inside the trigger guard, the area on the pad of the forefinger between the center of the pad and the first knuckle should touch the trigger. Having the trigger touched by the center of the pad or down in the crevice of the first joint of the finger will cause the gun to pull to the left or right and slightly down instead of staying exactly where the sights were aligned. (Other than flinching, this is the most common cause of misses.) The trigger press should be a smooth rearward steady rolling motion. Watch the front sight and align it with the target while the trigger is being pressed. One must guard against squeezing with the entire hand. The action of your finger against the trigger should be totally independent of the movement of the rest of your hand. When the trigger reaches the point where the trigger releases the firing mechanism, the shooter will feel a sudden release of tension on the trigger. This is the trigger's "break". This moment should come as a surprise, especially on single-action mode. You should be able to "call" your shot by remembering where the front sight was on the target, the moment the trigger breaks.

Practice your trigger control by dry-firing your pistol at home. Use a target on the wall. Make sure the pistol is unloaded (check it three times after you've put all ammunition in another room)!! Then, practice all of these points while aiming at your "target". Never dry-fire more than 50 to 100 times in each session. Take a break and relax, then go back to dry-firing. Re-read this instruction sheet during your break, and try to recognize any mistakes you are making. Concentrate on fixing them when you do the next session, but keep in mind all these points. 300 dry-fires a day will get you ready to shoot at the end of the week... (Yes, that's 1500 dry-fires!) You cannot dry-fire too much. Just make sure to concentrate on these fundamentals, and as soon as you feel fatigued or recognize that you can't do each one of these fundamentals every time you dry-fire, stop and take a break!
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Old June 24, 2012, 03:25 PM   #5
James K
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What is being talked about is simply turning the barrel slightly in or out to move the front sight left or right. That leaves the front sight canted, which is something many shooters don't like, but it is the way Colt adjusted its fixed sight revolvers for many years, and most customers never even noticed.

Doing that requires special equipment including frame blocks and the right size barrel bushings for the barrel vise. In other words, a job for the pros or the factory.

Another way is to clamp the frame in a vise in special blocks and hit the barrel to bend it (or the frame), but that is no job for the amateur (or the faint of heart!). Also a job for the pros or the factory.

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