March 27, 2012, 07:46 PM | #1 |
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Reloading tabletop
As some of you know, I built a cabinet to reload in my carport. My tabletop is enclosed and is made from 3/4" rough plywood. So, the surface is not smooth, but kinda rough. And I can see powder getting smeared in the wood. Therefore, I'm wondering what I can do to smooth out the surface.
thanks, john |
March 27, 2012, 07:52 PM | #2 |
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could just sand it and seal it, or get a cheap piece of plexiglass and cover it with that
-Madball6 |
March 27, 2012, 07:53 PM | #3 |
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I'd think either layer something like Masonite over the surface, or seal it in a finish of some sort?
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March 27, 2012, 08:05 PM | #4 |
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How about formica?
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March 27, 2012, 08:17 PM | #5 |
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I used laminate flooring for mine. It worked great, was cheap and cleans really easily.
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March 27, 2012, 08:22 PM | #6 |
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I have the same problem and have been toying around the idea of glassing the top. What do yall think about that?
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March 27, 2012, 08:38 PM | #7 |
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I wouldn't glass my top in case I wanted to drill holes, clamp things down,etc. Paint your surface white and you will be able to see stuff much easier.
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March 27, 2012, 08:43 PM | #8 |
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No need for anything fancy as a sealer - some enamel paint or polyurethane varnish would do just fine to smooth it out and leave you with a durable, easy-to-clean surface.
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March 27, 2012, 08:51 PM | #9 | |
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Quote:
I plan to install a 4 ft fluorescent light to the ceiling my 5ft wide cabinet. It would be placed as close to the front as possible at four ft above the tabletop. It's my attempt to minimize shadows. Would a white surface be problematic with this light or for any other reason? Thanks for the different ideas guys. john |
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March 28, 2012, 12:47 AM | #10 |
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Yep just paint it.
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March 28, 2012, 06:22 AM | #11 |
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If it's rough, sand it.
Then paint it with a good quality floor paint like Sherwin Williams Porch and Deck latex paint. Very good adhesion to properly prepared surfaces, excellent scuff resistance, and does a good job resisting chemicals. Not cheap, but top quality.
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March 28, 2012, 11:02 AM | #12 |
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Prime and paint is good or for a quick fix you can just use peel and stick floor tiles.
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March 28, 2012, 11:10 AM | #13 |
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I bought a sheet of 3/4" MDF that has a laminate on it for 6 dollars at the hardware store that had a piece of the laminate missing. It works awesome
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March 28, 2012, 11:27 AM | #14 |
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I would just glue a laminate on it ....quick and easy.../ local flooring or counter top places will have some remnants ...really cheap.
You might consider some kind of a gentle ...but raised "bull nose" ledge on face and sides...so stuff doesn't roll off the counter...or rip some 1 X material that you can edge it with ...make the edging a little proud of the top ...so it gives it a lip ..but not too deep. If you pick the right bulbs - fluorescent lights are ok ...but the "cycling of them" drives me a little nuts..../ so I like them for general light ..but not task lighting. For task lighting ...I'd find a gooseneck Halogen light...something adjustable ...like for a drafting table..office stores have them../ the ones I like have 2 bulbs in them ...and a selector switch for 1 or 2 on ...something with about a 6" head on it ... |
March 28, 2012, 09:17 PM | #15 |
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I'm not sure what I'll do, but it will hopefully be done by Monday. Parts from Dillon are due next week.
Time to start. john |
March 28, 2012, 09:25 PM | #16 |
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+1 on the masonite table tops
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March 28, 2012, 09:53 PM | #17 |
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I covered mine with stick on floor tiles
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March 28, 2012, 09:53 PM | #18 |
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http://www.polyclay.com/flecto.htm
Get Satin finish Sand it, Brush it on, Sand it and brush it on again. Never have to touch it again. Sailplane wings and furniture for past 17 years. Wonderful and foolproof. No fumes. |
March 28, 2012, 10:32 PM | #19 |
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Really rough plywood will need a top such as masonite. Paint will not remove surface roughness.
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March 29, 2012, 06:17 AM | #20 |
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A cheap and very fast method, self-sticking shelf liner. I've been meaning to pick up some of this stufffor my homemade bench. It only $3, and if I cut or drill into the top in some manner, I can just cut out a small patch to level it out.
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March 29, 2012, 06:51 AM | #21 |
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The reason I suggested "glassing" the top was to use the glass to fill in the surface deformities and create a smooth surface without placing another layer of wood on top and creating a flex point between the two surfaces.
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