The Firing Line Forums

Go Back   The Firing Line Forums > The North Corral > Black Powder and Cowboy Action Shooting

Thread Tools Search this Thread
Old January 11, 2011, 04:36 PM   #1
Join Date: November 8, 2010
Posts: 43
How to remove hammer single shot black powder .45 pistol ??

I just got an Miroku single shot black powder .45 cal pistol.
The hammer does not line up with the nipple. { SELLER FAILED TO MENTION THAT IN THIS AUCTION! - }
Anyway, I need to heat up the hammer and twist it a bit. I have never assembled or disassembled one of these.
Can I simply remove the bolt holding the hammer on and pull the hammer off?
Or is there a spring or something that will become disconnected?
I have attached pictures. I don't dare mess with it without some advice first.
Thank You!
Attached Images
File Type: jpg pistol 005.jpg (45.1 KB, 63 views)
File Type: jpg pistol 001.jpg (33.1 KB, 49 views)
File Type: jpg pistol 003.jpg (32.0 KB, 49 views)
5282jt is offline  
Old January 11, 2011, 04:51 PM   #2
Join Date: April 27, 2010
Posts: 93
Yeah, you cant just unscrew the hammer, you need to take the whole lock off, because as you suspect there are springs behind it. It should just be something like two screws on the other side and the lock will pull out easily.

Getting the hammer out is a bit tougher, there are a couple springs and they can be a bit tricky. I would take clear pictures of how it all fits on the other side then work slowly and carefully to remove the springs first

Although I gotta say I'm not real sure on the whole bending the hammer idea, I would wait for some more knowledgeable replies on that. It may be unnecessary to disassemble the lock.

I sort of suspect that the lock/barrel aren't fitted properly and that might be the first issue to address.
Kadmos is offline  
Old January 11, 2011, 05:03 PM   #3
Senior Member
Join Date: December 30, 2005
Location: hurricane alley, florida
Posts: 304
position cock/hammer to half cock.

remove screw, insert two small flat tip screw drivers at 3 & 9 oclock position.
gently pry with equal force.

place cock/hammer in a vise with soft metal jaws to prevent marring surface.

you may have to make two adjustments. left to right & up & down.

as you view the hammer from the firing position the cock/hammer heeds to be centered on the nipple also as you view the hammer from the side the hammer face or cup needs to be centered on the nipple when in the fired position.

heat to cherry red make one adjustment check alignment then check at fired postiton if needed remove and heat again to make the last adjustment.

recheck both alignments then polish hammer stem/neck to remove any scale from the annealing, reheat to cherry red immerse into oil. polish again.
this time lightly coat with oil place onto a tin coffee can bottom held by pliers heat lightly until oil ignites then remove and let air dry.

or you can forgo the oil and heat till you see a light straw color come over the metal.

now the hammer is hard but flexiable enough not to break upon impact.

good luck.........

"When the government fears the people, there is liberty. When the people fear the government there is tyranny!" Thomas Jefferson

"They that can give up an essential liberty to obtain a little temporary safety, deserve neither liberty nor safety!" Benjamin franklin

The Armed Citizen PREVENTS tyranny!
sewerman is offline  
Old January 12, 2011, 07:50 AM   #4
Join Date: November 8, 2010
Posts: 43
Thanks sewerman! I got it!

I appreciate the exact directions you gave me!
It took 4 heat up and bends, but I got it right now!
Thank You!
5282jt is offline  
Old January 12, 2011, 03:16 PM   #5
Senior Member
Join Date: August 23, 2008
Location: SoCal
Posts: 6,442
It's simple, all you need some off-set caps!

Seriously, your hammer may not need bending. Looking at your third pic, the hammer doesn't look to be installed even close to having it's mounting screw perpendicular to the bore! It seems your cocker is cock-eyed -- is the screw bent, misaligned, or what? With the hammer screw seemingly out of square, I can imagine all sorts of nasty consequences. How's the sear alignment? I'd address this assembly problem before firing-up the forge.
zippy13 is offline  
Old January 12, 2011, 05:12 PM   #6
Senior Member
Join Date: April 25, 2010
Location: Arkansas
Posts: 3,309
Looks like sewerman solved the problem.
It is a simple process.
An earlier response was, unfortunately, off the mark.
52828jt, you were lucky. Some of those import hammers were made with a cast steel that just wouldn't bend. The early TCs were like that. I know, been there, done that. Maybe with a welding torch it could have been done but not with a propane or MAPP.
Rifleman1776 is offline  
Old January 12, 2011, 06:45 PM   #7
Join Date: November 8, 2010
Posts: 43
The mounting screw is perfectly perpendicular to the bore

It must just be an oddity in the way the picture looked?
5282jt is offline  

Thread Tools Search this Thread
Search this Thread:

Advanced Search

Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off

Forum Jump

All times are GMT -5. The time now is 07:49 PM.

Powered by vBulletin® Version 3.8.7
Copyright ©2000 - 2017, vBulletin Solutions, Inc.
This site and contents, including all posts, Copyright © 1998-2017 S.W.A.T. Magazine
Copyright Complaints: Please direct DMCA Takedown Notices to the registered agent:
Contact Us
Page generated in 0.05821 seconds with 10 queries