The Firing Line Forums

Go Back   The Firing Line Forums > The Skunkworks > The Smithy

Thread Tools Search this Thread
Old July 12, 2010, 06:31 AM   #1
Join Date: April 29, 2010
Posts: 67
Stevens Model 87A 22lr Semi-Auto Rifle. (Reblued)

In another thread I mentioned I was having my Stevens 87A that I got from my Dad blued, well I picked it up on the 5th.
Below you will find pictures, both before and after photos.
I ended up paying $60.00 for the bluing and a used replacement butt pad.
All the work/cleaning/polishing/bluing was done at Carl's Repair in Oakville, Washington.







Looks like it is going to limit me to 6 photos in a post, so if you want to see more you can check out a lot more photos at

Next thing I plan on doing is getting the stock fixed up a bit.

Michael Grace

Last edited by Baryngyl; July 12, 2010 at 06:40 AM. Reason: To add info I left out.
Baryngyl is offline  
Old July 12, 2010, 09:09 AM   #2
Senior Member
Join Date: April 27, 2010
Location: Pacific Northwest
Posts: 421
Looks like they did a frst rate job! I'll have to write that place down, they're not far from me. I've been thinking about doing a bit of pawnshop trolling of late.
Mal-"Jayne, how many weapons you plan on takin', you only got the two arms."
Jayne-"Well I just get excitable as to choice-like to keep my options open."
RimfireChris is offline  
Old July 14, 2010, 04:30 PM   #3
Senior Member
Join Date: December 6, 1999
Location: Richmond, Virginia USA
Posts: 6,004
So that's what they are supposed to look like. EVery one I've seen for 50 years looks like the before pic. Good deal.

johnbt is offline  
Old July 14, 2010, 08:44 PM   #4
Miata Mike
Senior Member
Join Date: May 22, 2010
Location: North East WI
Posts: 418
I have a Montgomery Wards Model 87C that has some cheesy paint on the end of the stock, but it looks totally original. I picked it up for next to nothing with a cherry 870 Wingmaster that a coworker sold me when he moved to the Philippines. I have always been afraid to shoot it but it doesn't look all that bad for being like 70 years old.

I guess I need to haul it out of the gun safe and take a good look at it again.
Miata Mike is offline  
Old July 14, 2010, 09:21 PM   #5
Senior Member
Join Date: February 13, 2010
Location: Kentucky
Posts: 993
That's a first rate job for $60!

Keep her oiled and she will outlast you.
Admiral Isoroku Yamamoto - “You cannot invade the mainland United States. There would be a rifle behind each blade of grass.”
riverwalker76 is offline  
Old July 15, 2010, 05:21 AM   #6
Join Date: April 29, 2010
Posts: 67
Hoping to eventually pass it on to my first born that is interested in guns (if I ever find Ms Right and have kids), if not then I will leave it to a Nephew/Niece or a friend.

Even if I had to reblue it every 10 to 15 years it will be worth it.

Michael Grace
Baryngyl is offline  
Old July 15, 2010, 05:01 PM   #7
Senior Member
Join Date: September 13, 2005
Posts: 3,893
If it was mechanically sound and shooting well I'd have left it as is, has a little character. But superb worksmanship, and as you noted, it will become an heirloom.
SIGSHR is offline  
Old July 16, 2010, 02:38 AM   #8
Big Shrek
Senior Member
Join Date: August 6, 2009
Location: NorthWest Florida
Posts: 1,150
Grab a 6-pack of coarse-grit sanding sponges from Harbor Freight Tools.
Hand-sand the stock until it's clean. Stain using ANYTHING BUT MINWAX.
Clearcoat with your favorite polyurethane (Minwax ok there) or Tru-Oil.

Reason I say don't use Minwax, it's the cheapest stain on the market...horrible stuff.
You usually have to use a separate wood conditioner, which is already in High Quality stains.

If you've ever used quality stains, you quickly discover why they are so much better than Minwax.
General Finishes, Old Dad's, Wood You brand, Formby's...are all high-quality.

I equate Minwax stains to bulk Remington Golden Bullets...
you'll get a few good shots off, then the problems start
Marlin Specialist
Calico Specialist
A gun should be a tool in the hands of a deadly weapon, not a deadly weapon in the hands of a tool.
Big Shrek is offline  
Old July 16, 2010, 07:38 AM   #9
Senior Member
Join Date: June 20, 2007
Location: Starkville, MS
Posts: 6,532
For working stocks (not show pieces) I've had my best luck using Citristrip to remove the old finish. Light sanding to remove the scratches. NO stain. Minwax brand Tung Oil finish as a coating. The Minwax Tung Oil Finish is really just a wiping varnish. It takes about 3 or 4 light coats to build up a nice hard finish. You wipe it on with a folded up piece of cheese cloth and let it dry for 24 hrs. Flood the first coat pretty heavily and wipe it down after letting it soak for a few minutes. When dried overnight, rub it down with some steel wool. Blow off the dust and recoat.
Doyle is online now  

Thread Tools Search this Thread
Search this Thread:

Advanced Search

Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off

Forum Jump

All times are GMT -5. The time now is 08:26 PM.

Powered by vBulletin® Version 3.8.7
Copyright ©2000 - 2017, vBulletin Solutions, Inc.
This site and contents, including all posts, Copyright © 1998-2016 S.W.A.T. Magazine
Copyright Complaints: Please direct DMCA Takedown Notices to the registered agent:
Contact Us
Page generated in 0.08032 seconds with 9 queries