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Old August 3, 2008, 06:39 AM   #26
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cicolin81 -

First of all, welcome to the forum.

Starting out, a bit of advice: you'll get more and better responses to your question if you start a new thread rather than adding on to someone else's. More people will see the subject and respond; by adding what is essentially a new subject to an old thread, people who have already posted in the thread, or those who are not interested in the original thread's subject won't see your request.

The caution to not charge directly from a flask originated with long gun users. It is not unusual for a long gun to retain hot embers in the bore, especially in the breach area. Pouring directly from the flask creates a column of combustible powder from that ember all the way back up to and into the flask. A loaded flask is a bomb in your hand. I have personally seen two incidents (in over 30 years, and thousands of gun loadings) in which a flask was ignited in that manner, and in both cases the result was severe burns.

The situation is not as dangerous with revolvers or short guns, as they tend to cool more quickly and hot embers are quite unusual. Also, we tend to take longer to charge revolvers, giving any embers longer to go cool. However, when one considers the possible consequences (third degree burns on the fingers, wrist, arm and face, and possible loss of an eye) it simply makes no sense to tempt fate. Being safe is the goal; ignoring the physics and saying, "It won't happen to me" is being unsafe.

Here's my opinion about wads/grease: The best, and sufficient, protection against chain fires is the proper size (and shape!) round ball and a properly fitting percussion cap. Thus wads/grease are helpful, but not in and of themselves the full measure of protection. What they are good for, however is lubrication of the chamber and bore. It is true that a good wad/grease will keep fouling soft and allow the gun to be fired several more times before fouling causes binding of the action. I personally prefer lubricated overpowder wads to grease over the chamber just because they're less messy on hot days. But that's a matter of personal choice; grease is allegedly more 'authentic', and that matters to some.
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Old August 3, 2008, 10:19 PM   #27
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Join Date: January 10, 2008
Location: Springfield, IL (formerly TX)
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Charging procedures

When I'm at the range I'm usually shooting both my C&B revolvers....maybe my SAA too. If thats the case I'll usually alternate weapons. The chances of an "ember" hanging around a few minutes isn't worth my worry. I do, however, make sure my caps and powder aren't on the surface I'm shooting from. I either load on another table or move the components once I'm loaded.

I shoot my Remington at CAS matches. Once I'm cleared from the range I remove the cylinder, charge five chambers, put wads in them and tamp them down. Tip - a large size X-acto knife handle seems to be .44! Perfect for tamping the wads. I replace the cylinder, load the balls and then remove the cylinder. I then cap the chambers and put the cylinder away in my bag or just hold on to it. It gets put back in the gun at the loading table. All this handling lets the cylinder cool and allows me to inspect the chambers before loading.......hence......flask blow up highly unlikely.

But.........always be as safe as you can.

M.D. Berk
SFC USA Ret. (NRA Life Member 21 yrs)
There's nothing like a good woman, a good pistol, and a bottle of Bulleit Bourbon Frontier Whiskey

Last edited by berkmberk1; August 4, 2008 at 12:01 PM. Reason: meant handle, not blade
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Old August 4, 2008, 12:18 AM   #28
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Join Date: June 3, 2008
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thanks a bunch guys. It's really good to hear from others who are knowledgeable before I hit the range.
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