Bullet lube in dies - cleaning tricks?

[mjrodney]

Any tricks out there to cleaning your dies of bullet lube?

[maxwayne]

WD-40 and a paper towel.

[mjrodney]

Good ol' WD-40.

Of course.

Thanks, Max.

[Harley Quinn]

I soak stuff like you are talking about in some diesel fuel and then clean a little with a brush or q-tip using the diesel fuel it has been soaking in, then blow it out with air.

It works and you can buy a gallon for about $3.25 at you favorite Fill up location (CA price right now). Of course farm prices are less, but I doubt you have diesel or you would not be asking

Around a farm it is a must for all the cleaning of bearing's and various things that move better with grease. I use a good set of hand gloves to keep it off the body.

Heck of a weed killer, fire starter,etc. but the enviromentalist's will give you hell.

HQ

[Leftoverdj]

Rodney, for most bottleneck rifle dies, make sure you clean out the vent hole in the shoulder. Welder's tip cleaners are good for this, but wire the right diameter works.

I use Simple Green as a solvent. Non toxic and non flammable.

[Harley Quinn]

I guess it is really the best, if you are in a location and are worried about flame.
But again not on the farm. LOL

HQ

[jfruser]

Howdy:

I just cleaned a seater die with brake cleaner. Any suggestions as to the best protectant?

[HSMITH]

I use chlorinated brake cleaner to clean the lube mess out of the dies, works great. For rust protection a wipe with CLP and then again with a dry patch works fine for me.

[Smokey Joe]

Mrjrodney--A quick swab out with a Q-tip with some Hoppe's #9 or any other standard bore cleaner is quite enough I find. Takes very little time & hassle.

Have never oiled a die--Also have never had one rust as a result of not being oiled.

[BigJakeJ1s]

Dillon and Hornady seater dies can be disassembled for cleaning while still on the press, without affecting the settings. The Dillon's feature a clip on the top that lets the guts fall out the bottom, but the Hornady's clip is on the bottom of the die. Remove it, and the Hornady sliding alignment sleeve and seater plug fall out the bottom.

Andy

[MADISON]

Over the last 31 years, I have found that you can USUALLY lube one case and then resize up to 3 more cases without lubing another/more cases.

[Polydorus]

Originally Posted by Harley Quinn

I soak stuff like you are talking about in some diesel fuel and then clean a little with a brush or q-tip using the diesel fuel it has been soaking in, then blow it out with air.

I guess it's is a question of what you have on hand. I've always used kerosene for all the things you mention.

[Edward429451]

Q-tips & hoppee's for cleaning lube out.

Best protection from rust on dies? Consistent use! The only dies I ever see beginning to rust are the ones that haven't been used in awhile. Weird but true.

[Smokey Joe]

Madison--

Over the last 31 years, I have found that you can USUALLY lube one case and then resize up to 3 more cases without lubing another/more cases.

I've tried that. IMX it is a recipie for a case getting stuck in the die. Definitely not worth the tiny saving in case lube. ABSOLUTELY not worth the hassle of getting a case stuck in the die.

The die manufacturers, and all the books I've ever read on the subject, say to lube every case. I think they advise that for a reason.

[Unclenick]

Amen to Smokey's point. As a veteran of three case stickings over the years, including one in an expensive carbide rifle die, I can absolutely verify that it isn't worth the price of a little lube. Moreover, if you are loading for precision, you don't want any two cases treated differently. Suppose the ones with the least lube work-harden most. That could affect case neck tension which affects burning consistency and with that, accuracy.

Nick