Thread: Tuning the 1858
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Old July 29, 2008, 04:22 AM   #2
Raider2000
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Join Date: July 23, 2007
Location: Virginia
Posts: 719
If it is a new in the box gun, I usually total strip mine down to clean it & grab my fine stones to smooth up the internal recesses of the frame especially where the hand rides in it's recess because almost all of the C&B revolvers that I've seen has this area with a lot of tool marks which can make the hammer feel rough.

Then I'll take a stone & smooth up the sear area of the hammer to make it like glass this helps in the feel of the hammer when you pull it back but it also sometimes improves the feel of the trigger when firing, now this process is not intended to take away any metal just smooth up the area in which the trigger rides against because they are usually left kinda rough but serviceable.

I then assemble the parts except the trigger guard & grips & rotate the hammer back a slowly as possible, what you want to do is look for when the hammer is pulled does it lower the bolt stop before it tries to rotate the cylinder, when you get to the first click of the hammer sear "loading position" you should be able to totate the cylinder freely in a clockwise dirrection "viewing from the rear" but not in the opesite dirrection.
Rotating the hammer twordes it's firing position slowly does the bolt stop pop up just prior to or just as the hammer engages the trigger in it's firing position sear if it does then so far so good, is the lock up solid as in can you rotate the cylinder any & then the bolt engages the stop in the cylinder?

If all is well in the lockup then you want to shoot it for about 100 - 200 rounds to break her in, then after that if the trigger is still a little stiff then you may want to stone the sear a little more to smooth it up a little more & shorten the creep some.
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