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Old June 14, 2018, 06:54 AM   #37
rodfac
Senior Member
 
Join Date: January 22, 2005
Location: Kentucky
Posts: 2,925
As to the OAL to use with the H&G #68, or one of its clones, I find that leaving just the barest lip of full dia. lead showing at the mouth of the case helps with any feeding issues. This seems to cushion the round as it feeds, both on the ramp and the chamber, and less than 1/16" does the trick. A plunk test on your barrel will show you if you have too much lead exposed.

Powder charges vary, but my standard load is with Win 231 at 5.0 - 5.2 grains with Win Sm Pistol Primers. As always, work up to this load, though it is mild, after consulting a good manual and considering the condition of your gun and all pressure implicatons.

For any and all of us who shoot lead alloy, and apologies to those who all ready know this trick, I use Chore Boy copper cleaning pads for lead removal. Just a couple passes with a small amount wrapped around a bore brush does the trick. Get the all-copper ones, not the steel with copper plating variety, to save wear and tear on your barrel...available on line, and rarely at Dollar Stores.

These work better than the famous Lewis Lead Remover, in use for decades among target shooters.

RifleTom, Don (USSR) has given you a good link to Missouri Bullet's site....good people there...and in answer to your coated or not question...I get the plain variety...and find that I can go more than 100 rounds without cleaning the barrel. Again, as I previously recommended, Lee Liquid Alox, used with their swirl lubing method, is a quick and effective antidote to minor leading at target velocities with any commercially cast bullet using their proprietary overly-hard lube.

Best Regards, Rod
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