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marine6680 · September 13, 2012, 10:42 PM

I think we need a Cleaning "how to" sticky somewhere...

Here is a copy/paste of a reply I wrote to another looking for cleaning advice... you may or may not find it useful...

Balistol is a CLP type cleaner, how well it lubricates, I do not know as I have never used it. Its not really a true CLP I don't believe, I know its been around for a long time though.

I do use Breakfree CLP in an aerosol can, I use it to spray out the trigger and Fire control group areas. It forces out junk and it leaves a thin coat of oil on all the parts and it gets down into the nooks and crannies that I can't reach to lubricate by hand. (I do this after cleaning the frame with my chosen cleaner)

During the first few hundred rounds, cleaning after every range trip is a good idea, after the "break in" period the gun has done all the initial wear fitting of the parts and you can hold off of doing a full cleaning as often. I would say, every few hundred rounds is fine. (unless this is a CC piece... then it needs cleaned every trip, and wiped down regularly)

If you can find someone with a little experience, have them sit with you and help guide you as you clean your gun. Keep in mind there are some bad habits out there, so if anything they say departs heavily from what you have read in the forums, it may be one of those bad habits. If you are unsure, come here and ask.

My process is as follows:
(Details vary depending on type of gun)

At the range before I leave (or soon after getting home) I spray CLP down the barrel from the breech, and let the extra drip out of the barrel. I let this soak in until I get ready to clean. I find this helps loosen up the crud and make cleaning easier. If I put a lot of lead rounds through the gun, (say 400+) I let it sit overnight muzzle down, so the CLP can soak in and break up more crud.

1) Field strip
2) Run a dry patch through the barrel, then a wet patch of bore cleaner

(I find bore cleaner cleans barrels faster than CLP or general purpose cleaner, because well, thats what its designed for. As there is lead and copper fouling that regular cleaners have more trouble with. Do not use bore cleaner on the whole gun, some are bad for plastics or some finishes/coatings. I am currently using an ammonia free foaming bore cleaner that is low odor and effective, I just spray some in the barrel at step 2)

3) Wipe all the loose crud from the frame/slide/parts with a rag
4) Using my chosen cleaner, clean all the parts and frame/slide
5) Using aerosol CLP (or other spray cleaner) spray out the trigger group and FCG areas
6) Wipe all cleaned parts dry with a clean rag
7) Run another wet patch of bore cleaner through the barrel
(I do not have to do this with the foam cleaner)

8) Run the correct size bronze brush through the barrel a few times, then run a clean patch wet with bore cleaner. Repeat until the patch comes out clean. Remember to clean from breach to muzzle whenever possible.
(I use bronze brushes, I find it cleans faster than nylon, and I feel it does not damage the barrel. I use CLP or general cleaner to wet the patch now that I use foam bore cleaner... if you go too long without cleaning the barrel, it may take a while, you may even need to let the barrel soak overnight)

9) Run a couple dry patches through the barrel, then run a patch with some lubricant through the barrel, this is to protect from rust. Gun oil, CLP, or other quality oil or protectant.
(Running a patch with oil is not as necessary for chromed lined barrels, but it doesn't hurt, keep that in mind should you ever get a gun with one)

10) Give all parts a coat of gun oil (or CLP, protectant, etc) then wipe off the excess with a clean rag
10a) Some gun finishes require a light coat of oil/protectant to prevent rust, if your finish requires, coat and wipe off excess (example: blued guns)
11) Lubricate as required
12) Reassemble the gun
13) Function Check
14) One final wipe down with a clean rag before storing

If I go shooting, and do not shoot enough rounds to warrant a full cleaning, unless I plan on shooting again the very next day, I do run a few patches of CLP or cleaner through the barrel. That helps make cleaning easier when I do the full clean after the next range trip or two. I prefer CLP because it also protects and lubes while it soaks in and breaks up crud. (As I said above, I use spray CLP, I can just squirt it in the barrel breach without need to break out my cleaning rod)

There is no need to spend an hour or more cleaning a firearm... (barring a full tear down of really old firearms) Just clean it well, and don't sweat every little tiny spec of dirt. Plus things like aerosol cleaner really help speed up the process.

Some extra things to consider:

CLP is a good all purpose product, it cleans well though not as quickly as actual cleaner. It is a pretty good lubricant as well. It is one of the best protectants you can get. It comes in a bottle, a squirt bottle, or aerosol.

As far as aerosol degreasers... non-chlorinated break cleaner works well and is cheap, I find it safe for polymer frames, but some plastic grips or parts may not like it. Electronics spray cleaner works well, it costs a little more money but is much more plastic safe. Dedicated aerosol gun cleaner/degreasers tend to be expensive. They work well for triggers, FCGs, and other hard to reach area like extractors and firing pin grooves. (BTW, it is recommended to test the cleaner on a small portion of the gun first)

There are a couple trains of thought for cleaning extractors and firing pin channels. Wet and Dry... Some say clean them but use no lube, as this prevents collecting dust and crud in these critical areas. Others say to clean and then use a very light coat of oil for these areas.

I would say that any gun that will serve in a defensive/CCW role needs dry, and a range only gun can run with a little coat of oil.

As I said, aerosol cleaners work well here, and aerosol CLP works well if you want to use lube. Using canned air after will force out all but a thin layer of CLP. I personally use an aerosol dry lube, so I at least have a minimum of lubrication for these areas while still being dry and not attracting dirt. I also have less worry about moisture in the air causing rust

As far as lubricants for general gun lubrication use...

For me personally, I use a quality grease on slides/bolts and other bearing surfaces like locking lugs. I also use it on the sear where it engages the hammer, I find it makes the trigger a little smoother. I use a quality oil everywhere else. (lately I have been using Lubriplate products that are non-toxic. Lubriplate makes quality stuff, but they sell only in large batches because they are an industrial focused company. I found a repackager that sells smaller amounts though)

As far as the trigger and the FCG, I use aerosol CLP to clean them out, then use canned air to spray out the extra CLP. Then I use my chosen oil to lube the parts. (you could just use the CLP and leave it there, if that is your chosen lube) The aerosol CLP lubricates the areas underneath that I can't reach easy, I prefer this to aerosol degreaser for that reason. Though some simpler trigger and FCG setups are easier to lubricate fully.

As far as AR style rifles... (should you choose to get one in the future) After cleaning, I use CLP exclusively for lubrication. As the traditional style gas system needs to be run wet for reliability as round count rises. If it is a piston style AR, I use grease and oil like on other guns, because they run cleaner than traditional gas ARs.

Others have their own preferred cleaners and lubricants. Over time, you may find your own preferences.

I keep rags separated for cleaning and those used to wipe off excess oil and final wipe downs, and I wash them regularly. (I use a washing machine, and heavy wash cycle with a double rinse, a little chlorine may help get them cleaner than detergent alone)

A set of picks (brass if you can find them but not needed) and a toothbrush or nylon utility brush (some cleaning kits come with them) can really help clean the corners and stubborn crud.

Every gun is different, so where and how to lubricate is different for each. The instruction manual is a good source of info for this. If still unsure, come here and ask.

Went longer than I expected... is there a general "how to" on cleaning on the forums? I would think there is, if not, we can get one.

Edit:

I also recommend an otis cleaning kit... I like mine a lot. I find it cleans quicker, and I use less patches. (the patches can be used three times, and I may use the patch a couple extra passes if I am just cleaning a really dirty bore and need to wipe out the loose crud from the brush. So I end up only using 2 or 3 if its a really dirty bore) There is a small learning curve for the kit, due to how the patches work. Plus they are designed to feel pretty snug/tight when pulling them through, you will get the feel for this after a few times, and learn when its too tight/loose, and to redo the patch.

September 13, 2012, 10:42 PM	#8
marine6680 Senior Member Join Date: July 24, 2012 Location: Parker, CO Posts: 4,594	I think we need a Cleaning "how to" sticky somewhere... Here is a copy/paste of a reply I wrote to another looking for cleaning advice... you may or may not find it useful... Balistol is a CLP type cleaner, how well it lubricates, I do not know as I have never used it. Its not really a true CLP I don't believe, I know its been around for a long time though. I do use Breakfree CLP in an aerosol can, I use it to spray out the trigger and Fire control group areas. It forces out junk and it leaves a thin coat of oil on all the parts and it gets down into the nooks and crannies that I can't reach to lubricate by hand. (I do this after cleaning the frame with my chosen cleaner) During the first few hundred rounds, cleaning after every range trip is a good idea, after the "break in" period the gun has done all the initial wear fitting of the parts and you can hold off of doing a full cleaning as often. I would say, every few hundred rounds is fine. (unless this is a CC piece... then it needs cleaned every trip, and wiped down regularly) If you can find someone with a little experience, have them sit with you and help guide you as you clean your gun. Keep in mind there are some bad habits out there, so if anything they say departs heavily from what you have read in the forums, it may be one of those bad habits. If you are unsure, come here and ask. My process is as follows: (Details vary depending on type of gun) At the range before I leave (or soon after getting home) I spray CLP down the barrel from the breech, and let the extra drip out of the barrel. I let this soak in until I get ready to clean. I find this helps loosen up the crud and make cleaning easier. If I put a lot of lead rounds through the gun, (say 400+) I let it sit overnight muzzle down, so the CLP can soak in and break up more crud. 1) Field strip 2) Run a dry patch through the barrel, then a wet patch of bore cleaner (I find bore cleaner cleans barrels faster than CLP or general purpose cleaner, because well, thats what its designed for. As there is lead and copper fouling that regular cleaners have more trouble with. Do not use bore cleaner on the whole gun, some are bad for plastics or some finishes/coatings. I am currently using an ammonia free foaming bore cleaner that is low odor and effective, I just spray some in the barrel at step 2) 3) Wipe all the loose crud from the frame/slide/parts with a rag 4) Using my chosen cleaner, clean all the parts and frame/slide 5) Using aerosol CLP (or other spray cleaner) spray out the trigger group and FCG areas 6) Wipe all cleaned parts dry with a clean rag 7) Run another wet patch of bore cleaner through the barrel (I do not have to do this with the foam cleaner) 8) Run the correct size bronze brush through the barrel a few times, then run a clean patch wet with bore cleaner. Repeat until the patch comes out clean. Remember to clean from breach to muzzle whenever possible. (I use bronze brushes, I find it cleans faster than nylon, and I feel it does not damage the barrel. I use CLP or general cleaner to wet the patch now that I use foam bore cleaner... if you go too long without cleaning the barrel, it may take a while, you may even need to let the barrel soak overnight) 9) Run a couple dry patches through the barrel, then run a patch with some lubricant through the barrel, this is to protect from rust. Gun oil, CLP, or other quality oil or protectant. (Running a patch with oil is not as necessary for chromed lined barrels, but it doesn't hurt, keep that in mind should you ever get a gun with one) 10) Give all parts a coat of gun oil (or CLP, protectant, etc) then wipe off the excess with a clean rag 10a) Some gun finishes require a light coat of oil/protectant to prevent rust, if your finish requires, coat and wipe off excess (example: blued guns) 11) Lubricate as required 12) Reassemble the gun 13) Function Check 14) One final wipe down with a clean rag before storing If I go shooting, and do not shoot enough rounds to warrant a full cleaning, unless I plan on shooting again the very next day, I do run a few patches of CLP or cleaner through the barrel. That helps make cleaning easier when I do the full clean after the next range trip or two. I prefer CLP because it also protects and lubes while it soaks in and breaks up crud. (As I said above, I use spray CLP, I can just squirt it in the barrel breach without need to break out my cleaning rod) There is no need to spend an hour or more cleaning a firearm... (barring a full tear down of really old firearms) Just clean it well, and don't sweat every little tiny spec of dirt. Plus things like aerosol cleaner really help speed up the process. Some extra things to consider: CLP is a good all purpose product, it cleans well though not as quickly as actual cleaner. It is a pretty good lubricant as well. It is one of the best protectants you can get. It comes in a bottle, a squirt bottle, or aerosol. As far as aerosol degreasers... non-chlorinated break cleaner works well and is cheap, I find it safe for polymer frames, but some plastic grips or parts may not like it. Electronics spray cleaner works well, it costs a little more money but is much more plastic safe. Dedicated aerosol gun cleaner/degreasers tend to be expensive. They work well for triggers, FCGs, and other hard to reach area like extractors and firing pin grooves. (BTW, it is recommended to test the cleaner on a small portion of the gun first) There are a couple trains of thought for cleaning extractors and firing pin channels. Wet and Dry... Some say clean them but use no lube, as this prevents collecting dust and crud in these critical areas. Others say to clean and then use a very light coat of oil for these areas. I would say that any gun that will serve in a defensive/CCW role needs dry, and a range only gun can run with a little coat of oil. As I said, aerosol cleaners work well here, and aerosol CLP works well if you want to use lube. Using canned air after will force out all but a thin layer of CLP. I personally use an aerosol dry lube, so I at least have a minimum of lubrication for these areas while still being dry and not attracting dirt. I also have less worry about moisture in the air causing rust As far as lubricants for general gun lubrication use... For me personally, I use a quality grease on slides/bolts and other bearing surfaces like locking lugs. I also use it on the sear where it engages the hammer, I find it makes the trigger a little smoother. I use a quality oil everywhere else. (lately I have been using Lubriplate products that are non-toxic. Lubriplate makes quality stuff, but they sell only in large batches because they are an industrial focused company. I found a repackager that sells smaller amounts though) As far as the trigger and the FCG, I use aerosol CLP to clean them out, then use canned air to spray out the extra CLP. Then I use my chosen oil to lube the parts. (you could just use the CLP and leave it there, if that is your chosen lube) The aerosol CLP lubricates the areas underneath that I can't reach easy, I prefer this to aerosol degreaser for that reason. Though some simpler trigger and FCG setups are easier to lubricate fully. As far as AR style rifles... (should you choose to get one in the future) After cleaning, I use CLP exclusively for lubrication. As the traditional style gas system needs to be run wet for reliability as round count rises. If it is a piston style AR, I use grease and oil like on other guns, because they run cleaner than traditional gas ARs. Others have their own preferred cleaners and lubricants. Over time, you may find your own preferences. I keep rags separated for cleaning and those used to wipe off excess oil and final wipe downs, and I wash them regularly. (I use a washing machine, and heavy wash cycle with a double rinse, a little chlorine may help get them cleaner than detergent alone) A set of picks (brass if you can find them but not needed) and a toothbrush or nylon utility brush (some cleaning kits come with them) can really help clean the corners and stubborn crud. Every gun is different, so where and how to lubricate is different for each. The instruction manual is a good source of info for this. If still unsure, come here and ask. Went longer than I expected... is there a general "how to" on cleaning on the forums? I would think there is, if not, we can get one. Edit: I also recommend an otis cleaning kit... I like mine a lot. I find it cleans quicker, and I use less patches. (the patches can be used three times, and I may use the patch a couple extra passes if I am just cleaning a really dirty bore and need to wipe out the loose crud from the brush. So I end up only using 2 or 3 if its a really dirty bore) There is a small learning curve for the kit, due to how the patches work. Plus they are designed to feel pretty snug/tight when pulling them through, you will get the feel for this after a few times, and learn when its too tight/loose, and to redo the patch. Last edited by marine6680; September 13, 2012 at 11:09 PM.