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Old February 17, 2002, 06:54 PM   #4
Blackhawk
Senior Member
 
Join Date: November 4, 2001
Posts: 5,040
Part four:

3. Trigger reset overtravel adjustment. After the trigger is pulled, the trigger bar tang has to re-engage the hammer for the next shot. The objective of this adjustment is to have the trigger go forward just a little farther than necessary to reset the trigger bar.

The adjustment is made by super gluing a short bent piece of paper clip wire into the recess of the frame where the trigger bell crank rotates to limit its travel.

Disassemble the pistol, and then assemble the frame, paper clip, rubber band setup. Pull the trigger, and slowly let it move forward to reset. When it resets, you will hear a click. Mark that point with a piece of masking tape on the trigger guard. The trigger will have to move forward from that point, but not very much.

Remove the rubber band rig and the transfer bar.

Cut a piece of paper clip wire about 1/8" to 3/16" long (the "spacer"), and put a slight bend in the middle of it. Use Q-Tips and alcohol to thoroughly remove all oil or grease from the aft part of the trigger bell crank recess so the spacer doesn't get contaminated with oil while you're fitting it. The bell crank itself is liable to have oil under it, so you might to be diligent to get all oil in the area removed.

Fit and adjust the spacer (with the bend engaging the bell crank) in a place where the trigger can move slightly forward of the marked spot on the trigger guard. Mark the frame with a pencil opposite the ends of the spacer.

Reposition the trigger return spring so it forces the trigger aft, and clean the bell crank area again.

Positioning the spacer when you're gluing it is tricky. It seems determined to position itself however you don't want it, so practice getting and holding it where you want it before you even think of gluing it. Skill and technique seem to be the only help for it, so practice first.

Place a very tiny drop of super glue inside the bell crank recess opposite where one of the ends of the spacer goes. Exhale on it. The moisture from your breath will cause the super glue to start to set up. After a minute or two, position the spacer where it belongs. Let it sit for 10 minutes or so. When the spacer doesn't move from a light touch with a toothpick, place a larger (but still very small) drop of super glue between the spacer and the bell crank recess. The superglue will flow under the spacer and between its free end and the frame. Exhale on it. If you've done the gluing satisfactorily, there won't be any glue forward of the spacer and certainly not anywhere near the trigger bell crank. If you need to remove the spacer for any reason, you can pop it out with a flat bladed jeweler's screwdriver, but it shouldn't be easy. The attachment is effectively permanent, and it's not bothered by the shock of firing the pistol. However, doing this item correctly is a crucial part of the whole trigger modification. Too much glue, too big a spacer, not positioning the spacer correctly, or not cleaning the recess can all result in your pistol not being capable of firing.
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