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Jeff22 · January 17, 2005, 01:19 AM

SLIP 2000 Carbon Cutter works good to take carbon off stainless steel revolver cylinders and carbon build up on the bolt and bolt carrier assembly of an AR-15 or M-16.

I've used various brands of "Lead Away" cloth for years on blued steel guns without a problem.

The best way I've found to reduce leading is to shoot FMJ bullets. My normal practice session with one of my little revolvers (J-Frame S&W) is 150 rounds. I usually take 100 rnds of lead reloads and 50 rounds of generic GI Spec 130 grn FMJ-RN. Every few cylinders full of lead reloads gets followed up with a cylinder of the FMJ bullets (most of my practice courses are 30 rnds, so it's actually pretty easy to keep track) and that REALLY reduces the leading problem.

Shooter's Choice also makes a specific solvent formula for Lead Removal that I've had VERY good luck with, but you have to let it soak in for a while and then brush enthusiastically. (In the old days guys used to fill a pint canning jar with Hoppe's #9 or GI RBC and soak the cylinder over-night before cleaning. I've done that too with good result and no damage to the cylinder, but I believe you CAN'T do that with a solvent containing ammonia)

I would only use a stainless steel brush in instances where I had VISIBLE and HEAVY leading. A regular bore brush (brass or bronze or whatever it is) is SOFTER than the metal of the barrel, whereas stainless steel will be just as hard and might cause scratching.

January 17, 2005, 01:19 AM	#23
Jeff22 Senior Member Join Date: September 15, 2004 Location: Madison, Wisconsin Posts: 715	SLIP 2000 Carbon Cutter works good to take carbon off stainless steel revolver cylinders and carbon build up on the bolt and bolt carrier assembly of an AR-15 or M-16. I've used various brands of "Lead Away" cloth for years on blued steel guns without a problem. The best way I've found to reduce leading is to shoot FMJ bullets. My normal practice session with one of my little revolvers (J-Frame S&W) is 150 rounds. I usually take 100 rnds of lead reloads and 50 rounds of generic GI Spec 130 grn FMJ-RN. Every few cylinders full of lead reloads gets followed up with a cylinder of the FMJ bullets (most of my practice courses are 30 rnds, so it's actually pretty easy to keep track) and that REALLY reduces the leading problem. Shooter's Choice also makes a specific solvent formula for Lead Removal that I've had VERY good luck with, but you have to let it soak in for a while and then brush enthusiastically. (In the old days guys used to fill a pint canning jar with Hoppe's #9 or GI RBC and soak the cylinder over-night before cleaning. I've done that too with good result and no damage to the cylinder, but I believe you CAN'T do that with a solvent containing ammonia) I would only use a stainless steel brush in instances where I had VISIBLE and HEAVY leading. A regular bore brush (brass or bronze or whatever it is) is SOFTER than the metal of the barrel, whereas stainless steel will be just as hard and might cause scratching.