[Sevens]

I use four different kinds. I started with the 80-hole RCBS load block and used it for many years. I'd pick up each piece of brass and charge it and then place it in the load block. Works, is safe. Not fast. I also have an MTM and a couple of the made-for-each-caliber wood blocks.

Later, I began to move the load block under the powder measure and drop charges in to the cases that are already in it. With this method, it's much faster but you have to be certain that you don't double charge any cases. And you also need a compatible block that isn't so large that you can't get the tray under your measure.

It's that last reason that led me to using multiple load blocks. When they are too big, you can't fit the load block under the measure and only some of the holes become "usable."

For me, the crucial part is to have a load block -- any load block, with all the charged cases in it so that I can hold them up to the light and peer inside each and every case to make sure the powder level is the same as the others. How I get to that point varies, just so long as I can look at each single piece to have the piece of mind.

Lately, I've not used the load blocks so much and have been using actual plastic trays from factory ammo boxes which I have a ton of. (I haven't bought factory in years, but I still get them from friends and other shooters)

For rimless semi-auto rounds, the box for that caliber works great. In 9, 10 and .45, I use their own trays. For rimmed revolver rounds like .38 and .357, I just use a .40 cal or .45 tray. These trays work well because they are very compact and the entire tray easily fits under my powder measure.

With this method, I keep a good pace AND I still have all the quality control and checks & balances that I demand at the bench.