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Do you think repeated hits of the hammer against the hammer block could eventually deform the pivot hole to the point that the hammer block would get loose and sloppy?
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Yes, it will damage it.
Use it as a layer of protection for the cylinder during handling, if you use it at all. (I don't.)
After I got mine, I mentioned having to do a lot of polishing and cleanup, and put thousands cycles on the action, including a bunch of dry-firing, just to make the thing work properly. People went nuts and started flooding me with pictures of broken and deformed frames and hammer blocks.
They were a little disappointed when I showed the untouched hammer block and absolutely mutilated rims on the pile of spent .22 LR that I was using for dry-fire.
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I would not try it without the safety because the firing pin would then hit the cylinder and you will see an indentation on it in no time which will hinder extraction of your cases.
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Although a low end firearm, a properly assembled Rough Rider should not allow firing pin to cylinder contact.
You'll do more damage to a properly functioning revolver by using the hammer block, than by running nothing at all.
But I strongly suggest using snap caps or spent casings to prevent firing pin breakage. -- Be sure to spin the cases between strikes, if they don't do it on their own as the cylinder rotates. (Cases fired in my Ruger Wrangler fit loosely enough to spin on their own in the Rough Rider, which is nice.)