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Old January 15, 2022, 05:38 PM   #2
Senior Member
Join Date: February 13, 2006
Location: Washington state
Posts: 14,973
The biggest problem with tuning semi-auto pistols in general is that the heavy moving parts (slide assembly) can and will jostle the trigger and cause the gun to fire if trigger pull is too low. Think of it like this: as the slide moves back under recoil it loads the recoil spring. As the recoil spring slams the slide back forward and locks the breech, it also accelerates the frame forward. Accelerating the frame forward causes the trigger to pull itself (the trigger wants to remain stationary as the frame moves forward because of the 1st law of physics). If there is insufficient sear engagement or insufficient trigger spring pressure, the gun will fire. Typical hobby gunsmiths think lighter trigger pull is better and they tamper with things they don't understand. I see a lot of "trigger jobs" which are nothing more than bending the trigger return and sear legs on the 3-fingered sear spring, with predictable results. So, when I do a trigger job on a semi-auto pistol I have to make sure these things are taken into account so you don't have doubling, hammer follow-down, or just flat out full auto (a 1911 emptying the magazine all at once is quite a rush).
Never try to educate someone who resists knowledge at all costs.
But what do I know?
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