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Rigmarol · October 18, 2012, 06:58 PM

Bill Carson, thanks for the post.
I'm a little leery about taking any material off of the expensive cylinder. I was hoping to make the adjustment on the far cheaper parts like the Hand/Spring assembly or the Bolt.

What sticks in my mind in favor of your technique is that during the one conversation I had with a Kirst approved gunsmith, he stated that when the gun is properly tuned to the Kirst Cylinder, it will also work with the original. So what you are saying lends some measure of merit to his remark. OR if I were to get a new part, such as the hand/spring assembly, then THAT part would work with both... or not.

I've ordered a new hand/spring assembly and will probably go that route at first. That's only a $15 part if I mess it up.

But, I will keep your suggestion near the top of my notes and thanks again.

(edited to fix spelling)

October 18, 2012, 06:58 PM	#20
Rigmarol Senior Member Join Date: January 29, 2005 Location: Southern California Posts: 344	Bill Carson, thanks for the post. I'm a little leery about taking any material off of the expensive cylinder. I was hoping to make the adjustment on the far cheaper parts like the Hand/Spring assembly or the Bolt. What sticks in my mind in favor of your technique is that during the one conversation I had with a Kirst approved gunsmith, he stated that when the gun is properly tuned to the Kirst Cylinder, it will also work with the original. So what you are saying lends some measure of merit to his remark. OR if I were to get a new part, such as the hand/spring assembly, then THAT part would work with both... or not. I've ordered a new hand/spring assembly and will probably go that route at first. That's only a $15 part if I mess it up. But, I will keep your suggestion near the top of my notes and thanks again. (edited to fix spelling) Last edited by Rigmarol; October 19, 2012 at 03:37 PM.