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BigJimP · April 30, 2009, 12:08 PM

In terms of checking an O/U ...

Overall outward condition - scratches, etc

If the gun is dirty ( inside or out ) I will discount it heavily ( like 30% ) or pass.

Choke Tubes - will the chokes come out with just finger pressure / or do you need a wrench ( if you need a wrench its not good ). Are the threads in the barrel clean / same on chokes. With a little lube on them - will chokes thread in easily and smoothly ? If not - its an issue. It may just need cleaning and lube ? If they won't go in and out easily - to me its a dirty gun / maybe worse.

Condition of inside of barrels - especially chambers - no residue,etc. Look for any bulge or any dents on outside of barrels. Make sure rib is secure.

Take forend and barrels off. How does the inside of the forend look - any galling, etc ? pass / it should have grease on it, but be clean. Any indications of water damage inside - if yes, pass on it.

On barrels - inspect the barrel to receiver connection / any galling pass on this gun. Check the extractors - are they clean, move easily.

On receiver - especially where barrels connect - any galling pass on the gun - pass on this gun. It should have grease on it / but wear marks are an indication of abuse and someone slapping a gun together carelessly. Rest of receiver should be clean / no excessive marks even around breech.

Get a couple of snap caps - check the trigger on both barrels - how does it feel / check it with a trigger pull gague if you have one / is it the same on both barrels ( clicking safety back and forth will reset the 2nd barrel on a Browning ..) so its easy to check both. It should be crisp / I like mine around 4 - 4 1/2 lbs but a good gunsmith can fix a heavy trigger. But if it has too much travel, or a snag as it moves - pass on the gun.

Barrel opening lever - should be tight. The gun should not virtually fall open / after you move the lever. You want the barrel connection - when you open the gun - to be a little on the stiff side ( not sloppy, so it falls open ). Its expensive to fix if its really loose.

Extended chokes are a plus these days ( if he or she has 6 or 8 to fit the gun - they're $ 40 - $65 each these days ).

Many Brownings over last 4 or 5 years - have adjustable triggers / 3 little spots - where you can move trigger a little / and many of them came with 3 different trigger pads ( pick one to fit your hands ).

Some guns have "palm swells" on the grip / see if you like it - some don't have it. Which forend style do you like - beavertail,etc - lots of different styles.

You probably can't take the stock off to inspect the inside of the firing pins, springs, etc - ( but it is the first thing you should do when you get home ). Some guys remove them a couple times a year, lube, etc - some don't ever remove them and they are nasty and rusty. If they are nasty and rusty - go see your gunsmith. If the firing pins are pitted - they need to be replaced.

Wood can be lightly sanded / restained, refinished - some guys are careless - gun racks can leave marks ... but unless its really deep, you can get a deal - and with 20 - 30 hours of labor it can be fixed.

Lots of good used guns out there ..... but that will get you started.

Warranty - if you shoot it / and point of impact is off on the barrels - can you bring it back ? Some guys will say yes - some no. If I sold you a gun - I would say if it was mechanical, I would fix it - give it back to you, but not take it back just because you changed your mind.

New guns - you are stuck with warranty - ship it back to factory - you buy it, you own it.

April 30, 2009, 12:08 PM	#14
BigJimP Senior Member Join Date: February 23, 2005 Posts: 13,195	In terms of checking an O/U ... Overall outward condition - scratches, etc If the gun is dirty ( inside or out ) I will discount it heavily ( like 30% ) or pass. Choke Tubes - will the chokes come out with just finger pressure / or do you need a wrench ( if you need a wrench its not good ). Are the threads in the barrel clean / same on chokes. With a little lube on them - will chokes thread in easily and smoothly ? If not - its an issue. It may just need cleaning and lube ? If they won't go in and out easily - to me its a dirty gun / maybe worse. Condition of inside of barrels - especially chambers - no residue,etc. Look for any bulge or any dents on outside of barrels. Make sure rib is secure. Take forend and barrels off. How does the inside of the forend look - any galling, etc ? pass / it should have grease on it, but be clean. Any indications of water damage inside - if yes, pass on it. On barrels - inspect the barrel to receiver connection / any galling pass on this gun. Check the extractors - are they clean, move easily. On receiver - especially where barrels connect - any galling pass on the gun - pass on this gun. It should have grease on it / but wear marks are an indication of abuse and someone slapping a gun together carelessly. Rest of receiver should be clean / no excessive marks even around breech. Get a couple of snap caps - check the trigger on both barrels - how does it feel / check it with a trigger pull gague if you have one / is it the same on both barrels ( clicking safety back and forth will reset the 2nd barrel on a Browning ..) so its easy to check both. It should be crisp / I like mine around 4 - 4 1/2 lbs but a good gunsmith can fix a heavy trigger. But if it has too much travel, or a snag as it moves - pass on the gun. Barrel opening lever - should be tight. The gun should not virtually fall open / after you move the lever. You want the barrel connection - when you open the gun - to be a little on the stiff side ( not sloppy, so it falls open ). Its expensive to fix if its really loose. Extended chokes are a plus these days ( if he or she has 6 or 8 to fit the gun - they're $ 40 - $65 each these days ). Many Brownings over last 4 or 5 years - have adjustable triggers / 3 little spots - where you can move trigger a little / and many of them came with 3 different trigger pads ( pick one to fit your hands ). Some guns have "palm swells" on the grip / see if you like it - some don't have it. Which forend style do you like - beavertail,etc - lots of different styles. You probably can't take the stock off to inspect the inside of the firing pins, springs, etc - ( but it is the first thing you should do when you get home ). Some guys remove them a couple times a year, lube, etc - some don't ever remove them and they are nasty and rusty. If they are nasty and rusty - go see your gunsmith. If the firing pins are pitted - they need to be replaced. Wood can be lightly sanded / restained, refinished - some guys are careless - gun racks can leave marks ... but unless its really deep, you can get a deal - and with 20 - 30 hours of labor it can be fixed. Lots of good used guns out there ..... but that will get you started. Warranty - if you shoot it / and point of impact is off on the barrels - can you bring it back ? Some guys will say yes - some no. If I sold you a gun - I would say if it was mechanical, I would fix it - give it back to you, but not take it back just because you changed your mind. New guns - you are stuck with warranty - ship it back to factory - you buy it, you own it.