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Old April 13, 2019, 02:40 PM   #27
Join Date: March 4, 2005
Location: Ohio
Posts: 16,351
There are different methods. Hdbiker offers a reality check approach that is good. I set guns up with the sights mechanically straight first, then try snap shooting at some dryfire targets to double-check that the particular gun doesn't mount funny for me, but mechanically straight usually works for me.

The way I set mechanical straightness is with a nifty little tool that NECO sells. It is a V on the end of a plate with a vertically adjustable V with a bubble level vial on it. The lower V centers on the barrel under the scope bell. The upper V is then adjusted until it is centering on the scope bell simultaneously. The vial is then indicating level when the scope is straight up over the barrel with respect to gravity. It would not work on an offset scope, but for most rifles, it is just dandy.

The way I use it is I clamp the gun in a vice with leveling feet. I put that gadget on and adjust the feet until the bubble is centered. At that point, the gun is mechanically upright. This works regardless of whether the gun has a convenient flat spot on the receiver or not. I remove the level and loosen the scope screws and use a self-leveling laser line (indoors) or a plump line (outdoors; this is what fluorescent orange plumb line is for) to adjust the reticule position. I then alternate tightening front and back on one diagonal with doing it on the other diagonal and checking the reticule position until the rings are tight and the reticule is still aligned with the plumb line. At this point, if I'm going to put a cant level on the scope, I recheck that the gun is still level and put it on and make sure it both levels agree as to where level is.
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