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Old May 4, 2019, 06:04 PM   #3
jmstr
Senior Member
 
Join Date: February 24, 2001
Location: San Joaquin Valley, CA
Posts: 1,281
DnPRK gave good advice.

IF you want to invest the money, it IS possible to get a post WW II slide to work on the WWII frame. HOWEVER, it generally requires a post WW II barrel, and a modern locking block [and fitting of the locking block].

A complete slide might cost anywhere from $50-200, depending on luck.

Barrels seem to be hard to track down also, and I'd consider myself lucky if I got one for under $150.

Locking blocks can be found cheap.


So- to make your pistol into more of a shooter, it might cost you up to $400 in parts, vs buying a P1 [get one with hex frame pin, if you can] or another WWII P38 for under $600.



IF you go the slide route, you have already walked away from the collector value concerns. So, if you go this route, get the mid/late 1960s and newer 'fat' slide. The safety lever has a cut out to turn up, but is now slightly below the surface of the slide. The pre-fat slide and all WWII slide are thin enough here that the safety lever is outside the entire width of the slide.

Also, the firing pin, and safety are more durable on the round-shank design. The firing pin block pin in the slide is not the same between WWII and Post-WWII design slides. In other words, not every slide part will be swappable.


Cost effective wise, a P1 might be the cheapest route, and simplest.

Yet, you have to determine what will make you happy.

Best luck!
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