Quote:
Originally Posted by Unclenick
Doyle,
Bob Flexner explained the term "tung oil finish" in the industry just means the finish the product produces resembles an actual tung oil finish in appearance, but doesn't mean there is any actual tung oil in it.
It's not driers so much as the heat polymerizing that make Tru-Oil effective where BLO is not. Same with that whole class of finishes. I don't know much about the wiping oils other than that Flexner rated them at the top of the protection level for oil finishes.
A friend of mine who is a cabinet maker put me on to the Danish oils. He said he liked the combination of hardness and appearance. They don't have UV blockers, but he said the blockers compromise hardness to a degree, so he didn't like them for tables. Besides, people don't leave their dining tables outdoors. We don't keep our rifles outside for extended periods, either, so it's hard to accumulate a lot of UV yellowing and embrittling.
My friend, applies Danish oil finishes by rubbing them in with progressively finer wet/dry sandpaper, going from 320 to 400 to 600 grit. It seems to fill in the grains well. It does have to be wiped
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I had heard about this same processes of using wet/dry sand paper years ago. Tried it and it worked very nicely. Took a lot more coats than simply rubbing on the oil but was worth the time!
Probably should say that using the fine wet/dry paper's you put it on rubbing in circles. What happens is the sanding dust is mixed in with the oil and going in circles forces the wet dust into pores. Apply till pores are filled!