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I must have tried boiling water at one time or another, but don't recall the result. I'll sound a caution to use a pan you don't cook in. Water soluble lead compounds in primer residue can probably bond to a number of surfaces, including glass, IIRC, then be redissolved when you cook something acid in the same pot.
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I agree, can't use a pot that may in the future to cook food with.<joke> Grits and gunpowder taste horrible together and don't ask me how I know that. </joke>On the serious side you can't use aluminum pot if you use any type of acid. The acid and aluminum will react with each other and cause surface blackening of the brass where it touches the aluminum.
Have not tried the plain old detergent and cold water routine yet I got busy on a honey do project. However thinking about it it should work. If I get a chance in the morning I am going to dump about 3 pounds of 38's in my kitchen sink with some Dawn and swish em around for 5 minutes and see if they are clean enough to run through the dies. It was pointed out by someone else on another thread the purpose of cleaning brass is to remove dirt which could harm the dies. Cleaning the primer pocket on precision ammo also makes sense to me because I feel it provides a more consistent ignition.
That is not to say shiny is bad, if people feel like their ammo shoots better cause it shines then more power to them. In my opinion however you can get your brass too shiny if you are going for precision reloading. I don't feel like doing the research right now but over on the bench rest sites one of the bench rest shooters made a statement that the carbon layer on the inside of the neck provides a bit of lubrication for the bullet while raw brass gives a inconsistent neck tension. While I don't know about all that I do know that I get darn good groups and chrono's with soot on the inside of my cases so I am not going to lose sleep over it or buy that 300 dollar cleaning system to get rid of it.