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Dfariswheel · December 28, 2011, 08:19 PM

HighValleyRanch

There is no torque specification for revolvers.
The barrel is set up for a certain amount rotation needed to bring the front sight to 12:00 O'clock top-dead-center and be properly tight.
However much torque that takes is what it takes.
The amount of "draw" needed to insure the barrel isn't too loose or too tight is a judgment call.

The frame around the barrel thread area and below has to be fully supported during installing and removing the barrel.
That usually needs a real frame wrench with hard polymer inserts to fit the frame.
You can make a frame wrench from aluminum or steel with cast epoxy inserts.
I wouldn't recommend wood. You only get one mistake with revolver frames.

The barrel doesn't get tighter as it's screwed in.
It screws in until the barrel shoulder contacts the frame. It's then torqued to insure it stays put, but isn't so tight you pressure dimple the bore or crack the frame.

The barrel is screwed in until the barrel shoulder contacts the frame. You then make a judgment call as to how much the shoulder has to be trimmed to bring the barrel to the point where it can be properly torqued into final position.
A lathe or a special barrel shoulder turning fixture is used to trim the shoulder.
Once the barrel is in place, then you need an expensive cutter tool that works down the bore to set the barrel/cylinder gap, and another tool set and special plug gauge to re-cut and lap the forcing cone.

You don't use a pipe wrench, some pieces of wood, and a file to fit a revolver barrel.

December 28, 2011, 08:19 PM	#13
Dfariswheel Senior Member Join Date: May 4, 2001 Posts: 7,478	HighValleyRanch There is no torque specification for revolvers. The barrel is set up for a certain amount rotation needed to bring the front sight to 12:00 O'clock top-dead-center and be properly tight. However much torque that takes is what it takes. The amount of "draw" needed to insure the barrel isn't too loose or too tight is a judgment call. The frame around the barrel thread area and below has to be fully supported during installing and removing the barrel. That usually needs a real frame wrench with hard polymer inserts to fit the frame. You can make a frame wrench from aluminum or steel with cast epoxy inserts. I wouldn't recommend wood. You only get one mistake with revolver frames. The barrel doesn't get tighter as it's screwed in. It screws in until the barrel shoulder contacts the frame. It's then torqued to insure it stays put, but isn't so tight you pressure dimple the bore or crack the frame. The barrel is screwed in until the barrel shoulder contacts the frame. You then make a judgment call as to how much the shoulder has to be trimmed to bring the barrel to the point where it can be properly torqued into final position. A lathe or a special barrel shoulder turning fixture is used to trim the shoulder. Once the barrel is in place, then you need an expensive cutter tool that works down the bore to set the barrel/cylinder gap, and another tool set and special plug gauge to re-cut and lap the forcing cone. You don't use a pipe wrench, some pieces of wood, and a file to fit a revolver barrel.