Each gun is an individual. You really won't know how well the bullet works until you try it in your rifle.
Until last year, I firmly believed that the ball reigned in my cap and ball revolvers. Then last January, using the Lee 200 gr. conical bullet made for the Remington, I shot groups at 20 yards that could cover a 50-cent piece.
That's as good as I've done with balls, with an occasional group of six balls going even tighter.
I used to think, and experience showed me, that conicals were not as accurate in my cap and ball revolvers -- until I tried the Lee. I still use balls, however, as I don't have to cast them, and they're easier to load. I don't need the greater energy a conical produces to put holes in paper and cans; balls work just fine for my advanced plinking needs.
As for Lee being a "cheap aluminum alloy." I own Lyman and Idea moulds made if iron, and a number of Lee moulds made of aluminum. Each require slightly different casting methods but both give me good, accurate bullets.
The Lee mould should be smoked before use, and a little lubricant dabbed on the top of the hot mould to keep the sprue cutter working properly. Some of my Lyman and Ideal moulds require smoking, some don't.
I own a Dillon 550B progressive press, and next to it is a "cheap aluminum alloy" Lee single-stage press that has reloaded thousands of rounds.
Both are useful and produce top-notch ammo.
Try the conical bullet in your rifle. If it works, it works. If it doesn't, it may work in someone else's rifle, or you may decide to sell the mould.
It's rather like someone asking, "Should I keep my new camera?" before they've taken their first photograph with it.
And by the way, I shoot a Nikon D300 camera ... not some cheap, plastic-bodied Canon ...
