As far as picking guns, Kyo...
... I'm referring to threads where people advise such things as:
"load up with hot .357 for HD; you won't notice the extra noise, flash, or recoil"
Note: fired a .357 off in an indoor space once, not having noticed my hearing protection had slipped. Tinnitus for 3 days...
or
"carry hot BB 305gr loads in your hiking .44 for bear defense; you won't notice the recoil."
Note: I can't comfortably practice with 305gr hammerheads in a Mountain Gun; I can practice with 255gr Keith loads. Guess which ones I'd choose?
Note: I know a lot of people who went out and bought .500S&W revolvers or .454 Ruger Alaskans as "bear defense guns." Of the group I know, less than 1/3 actually shoot those weapons with any regularity, yet most insist that with the adrenaline of a bear attack, they could shoot them no problem. Sure, they could shoot the revolvers, but without much practice, could they hit anything with them?
Note: Read an article shortly after the debut of the .500S&W where some guys wanted to try out the new revolver on brownies. They had rifle-armed guides along with them, which was a good choice. They found a bear across a riverbed, but within range. As I recall from the article, it took 8 rounds of .500 to put the bear down. Point: Even with a truly large caliber handgun, shot placement counts, especially against large bears. Question: Would a shooter who was well-trained with a .44mag have been able to take down a bear with one well-placed head shot?
Given a "powerful" round that one can't practice with all that much, or a "mid-level" round that one can practice with to a high proficiency level, I'll take the mid-level every time, and train the heck out of it.
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