Thread: help
View Single Post
Old March 22, 2009, 10:49 AM   #9
madcratebuilder
Senior Member
 
Join Date: November 2, 2007
Location: Northern Orygun
Posts: 4,923
Quote:
Is your revolver brass-framed? Brass-framed revolvers tend not to be built nearly as well as steel-framed guns. Often, their finishing is rougher and the parts are not as well finished. The Confederacy made brass-framed guns out of necessity, because it lacked the resources and materials to make steel-framed revolvers.
If your revolver is brass-framed, then this might explain the quality problem.
Not true. many brass frame revolvers are built as well as their steel frame counterparts. The High Standard brass frame series are superior to many steel frame revolvers in construction tolerances. I have Uberti and Pietta brassers that are as well built as the same model in steel. I have seen poorly made revolvers in both brass and steel.
Brass frames well not withstand heavy loads but that's another discussion.

Quote:
B. Tap in the wedge gently while rotating the cylinder. Once the cylinder begins to drag, because it is being forced against the rear of the barrel, stop!

C. Now, gently tap the wedge OUT with just a couple of light taps, while turning the cylinder. Once the cylinder turns free, STOP! This is the "sweet spot" on Colt-design revolvers. The wedge must never be so loose that you can remove it by pushing with your fingers, or accuracy suffers.
This method works on revolvers with a short arbor.
If the revolver is properly fit, the arbor bottoming in the barrels arbor hole, driving the wedge in tighter should not effect barrel gap, if it does then the arbor/barrel are not fit correctly. You should only need firm thumb pressure to insert the wedge, after firing you may need to tap it loose with a wood or rawhide mallet, but only lightly.

Quote:
Dry-firing a cap and ball revolver won't normally loosen the wedge. At least, not that I've ever seen, but it will bang up the nipples upon which the percussion caps rest.
These damaged nipples make it far less reliable.
Cap and ball revolvers should never be dry-fired. If you must pull the trigger, such as when measuring how much pounds it takes to trip it, remove the cylinder first.
Unfortunately most reproduction cap and ball revolvers suffer from the hammer hitting the nipples. There should be a few thousandth clearance between the hammer and nipple when properly fit. If not, dry firing well peen the nipples.
madcratebuilder is offline  
 
Page generated in 0.03527 seconds with 8 queries