[Unclenick]

Try knocking them in with a stick as soon as you can detect a glow (normal light). See if your bullet pull improves. If so, it should be reflected by slightly higher and more uniform velocity over the chronograph. If you don't see an improvement or, worse, if case life seems less extended, then in your lighting conditions you need longer exposure at that glow level.

If you work in total dark, you may have noticed you can then detect glow even in your lead melt, and at that glow level it can take several seconds of exposure to finish stress relief of the case, depending on the exact numbers and heat transfer rate (varies with fuel for flame). This is one of the big problems with glow as a temperature indicator. Like optical illusions where changing the background around a color patch changes the apparent color of the patch, differences in lighting conditions can cause you to think you see the same color of glow as under other lighting conditions when there is actually up to several hundred degrees difference in pyrometer temperature. Going from bright light to low daylight caused the pre-pyrometer tempering of early Springfield receivers to be irregular. I think Hatcher said over 300°F actual temperature difference at quench occurred.