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If you take the time to prep the metal with heat it makes all the difference. You can apply it heavy just like car wax but need to wipe it off. Let it dry to a waxy coating and buff it clean like car wax. Its about opening the pores of the metal with heat and sealing with the FL at in a molecular process opposed to leaving a heavy visible coating to lubricate. I think many that have problems with gumming are not using it correctly.
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Copy that. Frog lube acts like PTFE or Teflon products where it soaks into the pores of the metal creating a friction free surface. I treated my 1911 and carbon AR-15 and run them both dry without any problems for two years. Carbon deposits wipe off with a dry rag. I did the heat-apply-let cool and wipe off two times initially and that was all. I used Teflon products in the past and really liked how they worked and left the gun dry but lubricated. Frog lube I place in the same category.