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Bill, I agree but the perception was/is there is a parting line at the top of the water that separates the 650 + degrees neck from a shoulder that is 212 degree or below, that can not happen, either the neck is not 650 degree or the heat is not traveling or the annealer is not applying enough heat, again controlling heat, time and travel is what annealing is about. The term used was spheroid, to prevent this condition in the kitchen a lid is added with an adjustable or fixed valve, with the adjustable valve the lid is locked onto the pot, if someone has a weak moment and removes the lid with out releasing the pressure the results is a horror story, explosion, rapid expansion?? To me it matters not.
Again, do not pour water into a lead melt (pure lead) the temperature of annealing and lead melt is at about the same temperature, read the labels on a can of corn, make sure the corn is not packed in water. The amount of heat in the thin neck of the case does not have enough heat to cause more than a vapor, the amount of heat in a lead pot melt can cause a person making that mistake to swear off of melting lead.
650 + Degree is hot, wasted on most are the two links provided, one suggested submerging the case in a pan of water that covers 1/3 of the case (including the case head), a JIC precaution-just in case.
And I said I make tools for annealing for my use only. I would like to hear about tools others use, as I said just because the chamber gets dark when the bolt closes is not a cause for the light to go out----or is it?
F. Guffey
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